4 speed swap no clutch ??

[mark huff]

OK I jest put a t19 in my f250 7.3idi and I can't get the clutch on it to work I been beading it for 3 days I am lost on it I doubt think there is any air in the system am I missing something here

 

[marmot]

Can you get someone to see if the clutch fork is moving. If so you may have assembled the clutch wrong.

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I would check the slave cylinder and master for function and make sure your pedal is attached to the master as well, ask me how I know.
Marmot

 

[mark huff]

It has a new master and slave it moves a little jest not a lot and the pedal only comes about half way back when I push it

 

[TahoeTom]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?72014-slave-cylinder-won-t-bleed
I knew I had just seen a thread on this.

 

[mark huff]

Yea I tried about every thing I am about to throw in the towel I have no idea

 

[Hans13]

Can you get it into first gear atleast? Try pumping the clutch a few times before saying you can't. If so, drive on it. Drive around floating through the gears on the most unpopulated roads you can and use your clutch whenever it will work. Worked for me. (Make sure you are comfortable with being able to float into and out of gears before attempting. I am NOT liable for any disastrous outcomes due to a wreck)

 

[79jasper]

Or just let it idle for awhile.

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[mark huff]

I trues to pump it and put it in gear it will not go how do u tell it it is the clutch fork

 

[Agnem]

OK, here is the thing, and I know how much of a pain this is because I have numerous IDI's with manual transmissions. I'm going to guess that you have the black plastic hydraulic line and not the red semi-translucent hydraulic line. You have air trapped in that hydraulic line. Believe me, you really will have a devil of a time getting it out if you can't see the air bubble, and it doesn't have to be a big one. The truth of the matter is, that the neither the slave cylinder, nor the master cylinder can move enough fluid through the line, to push that bubble far enough to get it unstuck. If you had a way to put your whole truck on like a giant rotisserie, and spin it once around, your problem would be gone. But we can't do that, so we have to resort to various tricks. There are a few things you can try. Mess around with that plastic line A LOT. Bend it as much as you dare, trying to get a straight line up to the master cylinder. Don't mess with the bleeder screw, as it is just about worthless. Push the fork all the way forward with every new position of the line, and let it out S L O W L Y. You can also try vibrating the line while your doing this. I'm not going to make suggestions about what you can use to do this, but you need to oscillate that line at a high frequency to break the bubble up and get it to move. Perseverance will prevail. Always keep the lid off the master cylinder, and always make sure it stays full.

 

[typ4]

Mel, the crowded shop visual of "vibrating" a line has me roaring with laughter, thank you.

 

[madpogue]

Also, are you sure the arm that engages the master pushrod is adjusted properly? Are you using and adjustable pushrod? Everything "upstream" of the hydraulics - pedal box bushings, bushing between the pivot arm and pushrod, pushrod adjustment, pivot arm position - can affect how far you're actually pushing the master piston when you hit the pedal.

Is there a lot of slop / free travel in the pedal near the top?

 

[hotshotidi]

did you bench bleed? i used my foot on the fork to pump it up then let it gravity bleed. good luck

 

[madpogue]

Shame they don't make a pre-bled kit for the earlier generations like they do for the OBS.