3rd Clutch Master leaking

[FoMoCo]

I have installed 3 clutch masters on my 1994, The first 2 were from Napa and they looked just like the one that was on the truck when I bought it about 10 years ago (the black plastic ones). The first Napa one I bought as a kit which included the Master, new Line and Slave cylinder, so the line is newish. They all started leaking inside where the pushrod from the pedal goes. The one I have now I found at Clarks Discount Auto from Belltower, CA. This one is aluminum and bolts in with no mods, but the fluid reservoir is angled about 30 degrees toward the motor. This is not a problem.

My question is, does anybody have a cure for this problem? Is there a Master available from Wilwood that will work? and if so what is the part number?

Also the slave design is a joke, I would like to replace the master, slave and line at the same time.... Help.....


FYI, since I bought my 2005 VW TDI, I might put 200 miles a year on the Truck, so the Masters have little to no miles on them.

I have been using DOT brake fluid, maybe I can use a Hydraulic fluid instead?????

 

[Kevin 007]

I would not go with hyd. fluid. stick with the DOT 3. Thats the only help I can offer for this subject....

 

[riotwarrior]

I have installed 3 clutch masters on my 1994, The first 2 were from Napa and they looked just like the one that was on the truck when I bought it about 10 years ago (the black plastic ones). The first Napa one I bought as a kit which included the Master, new Line and Slave cylinder, so the line is newish. They all started leaking inside where the pushrod from the pedal goes. The one I have now I found at Clarks Discount Auto from Belltower, CA. This one is aluminum and bolts in with no mods, but the fluid reservoir is angled about 30 degrees toward the motor. This is not a problem.

My question is, does anybody have a cure for this problem? Is there a Master available from Wilwood that will work? and if so what is the part number?

Also the slave design is a joke, I would like to replace the master, slave and line at the same time.... Help.....


FYI, since I bought my 2005 VW TDI, I might put 200 miles a year on the Truck, so the Masters have little to no miles on them.

I have been using DOT brake fluid, maybe I can use a Hydraulic fluid instead?????

Not sure of Wilwood or such that works for our trucks, check with them directly.

As for the master canted to the side, that's one for the wrong year of truck quite simpley put.

Now for your problem it's hard to say why your having this issue, I've not heard of it to the degree you have had happen, it's usually from a worn one not new.

Maybe get NEW Ford parts instead of CHEAPNESE stuff.

JM2CW

Al

 

[FoMoCo]

Thanks for the information, I guess I am the only one having the same problem. I went with the canted one since it was metal and thought that the reduced flex on the housing would keep the leaks from happening. I will call Jegs and see what they have. I would need to build a bracket on the trans to mount the new slave. Jegs has several Masters ranging from 5/8 bore to 1 1/8 bore. They only list one slave that is 7/8 bore. I have check out these before and the big problem was the Masters bolt pattern is always to small for the firewall. I could get a piece of plate and make a mount.

 

[S-west]

I had 2 plastic ones crack in half on me, then I got a metal one from advanced auto and haven't had problems since. But it's only got 1000 miles on it now.

 

[Agnem]

Motorcraft ones last as long as the originals did. The metal ones only exist because people refuse to fix their clutch problems, ignoring the actual problem cause, and instead fixing the symptom.

 

[bab029]

After R&Ring a clutch in a gravel parking lot over a sunny july weekend, only to have the thing start leaking before I even got it bled, I go straight to the dealership for clutch hydraulics (ESPECIALLY the internal slaves....I wanted to cry when I saw fluid dripping out of there....IMO, the price difference is negligible compared to having to do it more than once.

 

[S-west]

Motorcraft ones last as long as the originals did. The metal ones only exist because people refuse to fix their clutch problems, ignoring the actual problem cause, and instead fixing the symptom.

In my case I think it's because the plastic ones on mine where cheap auto parts store ones. I deal like if your gonna get one from a parts store you might as well go metal. It saves the headache of doing it over and over because of cheap parts. At least hopefully.