3G alternator fuse?

[Dave7.3]

Alright, so I am swinging by the salvage yard tomorrow on my way to pick up some supplies from the plumbing store for the 6637 project. They happen to have a row of Ford Taurus cars, so I'm gonna see if I can grab a 3G alternator since I'm gonna be putting all new belts on my truck anyway. I've covered all my bases on this 1G to 3G swap...except one...

Do you absolutely need the 175amp mega fuze between the alternator and battery?

In case you are wondering what I'm talking about, see this thread here and note the giant fuze he puts in:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25824

I know having the fuze there would probably be a GOOD idea, but I cannot find one for the life of me in my area. So this left me wondering if it was crucial to the install. Have others installed these when they did their swap?

 

[franklin2]

The older cars and trucks never had this wire fused. Then around the late 60's or so they started using fusible links. The only time they ever gave trouble is when someone works on the alternator without disconnecting the battery. I suppose also they may blow during a bad accident if one of the wires got smashed. Only later on did they start fusing some of these large circuits.

Fuses are ok, but they have their drawbacks, just like fusible links. One of them is voltage drop through the fuse or fusible link. Nothing to worry about, but it is there, along with more connections to cause heat and corrosion.

Places to look for a fuse that large would be the big automotive stereo places, and also places that install aux equipment like powered liftgates and electric over hydraulic dump beds.

 

[rhkcommander]

I used a circuit breaker. Push of a button and the alt is not hooked to hot. Push a tab to reset it if it does trigger

 

[Dave7.3]

Thanks guys, that makes sense I guess. So if I didn't tinker with the alt, I wouldn't need it?

I used a circuit breaker. Push of a button and the alt is not hooked to hot. Push a tab to reset it if it does trigger

What kind of circuit breaker? Radioshack had something close...but I wasn't sure it would work...

 

[rhkcommander]

It's an automotive or marine circuit breaker. Got it at autozone but other stores have it too probably.

I would get one either way for safety but you'd probably be fine without

 

[Dave7.3]

It's an automotive or marine circuit breaker. Got it at autozone but other stores have it too probably.

I would get one either way for safety but you'd probably be fine without

Yeah, that is what I was thinking. Hate to ruin a good truck by trying to skimp a few bucks, ya know?

Happen to have a part number or a link to something similar to yours? I can hit three NAPA's and an Oreillys on the way.

The only ones I can find online are 10-30amp from those stores.

 

[typ4]

I dont fuse them because if it blows the alt will spike and cook the VR. I suppose it the sensing wire was still on the batt side it may be ok.
My2C

 

[Dave7.3]

I dont fuse them because if it blows the alt will spike and cook the VR. I suppose it the sensing wire was still on the batt side it may be ok.
My2C

That is a good thought too...hmmm. I'll have to think on it some more as my local parts stores can't get anything for me. For now, I got myself a 3G alternator off of a 95' Mercury Sable with a 3.8L from my local junkyard for $35. Didn't even have to go hunting for it, they had it on the shelf WITH harness included.
Not as cheap as some people have gotten theirs...and I even might have gotten a little screwed on the deal too. Dropped by the shop that rebuilds starters/alts for our tractors and he couldn't get anything out of it on his machine. Full rebuild he says might run up to $100. Anyone have a line on a rebuild kit? I think I might have found a cheap Motorcraft VR on ebay...

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[rhkcommander]

got mine with everything I needed for maybe 25 bucks tops maybe 20... Worked fine. How much did yours go fer?

 

[Dave7.3]

got mine with everything I needed for maybe 25 bucks tops maybe 20... Worked fine. How much did yours go fer?

$35...

Think I should go back to the junkyard and ***** about it failing the test bench?

 

[87crewdually]

When i did mine I used the entire length of heavy gauge yellow jacketed wire from the Taurus. I also grabbed the factory fuse and used it. When I was looking in the yard cars, I chose the one alternator that had the latest rebuild date on it.

 

[Optikalillushun]

rjmtechnologies has all ya need for the 3Gs. BTW, i got my fuse and holder from NAPA. Bench tested both of my 3Gs (one for my 93 F-150 which i used, other for my IDI still in storage) and both were 160-165A @ 2,000 rpm and around 105A @ idle. U can get the parts from RJM to rebuild them to 200As but the idle output suffers slightly from what i have seen.

Local rebuilder said a full rebuild would be $65 my cost but thats just parts because we deal with him through work so urs sounds right in line.

 

[Dave7.3]

When i did mine I used the entire length of heavy gauge yellow jacketed wire from the Taurus. I also grabbed the factory fuse and used it. When I was looking in the yard cars, I chose the one alternator that had the latest rebuild date on it.

Nice grab. The place I went to had an entire semi trailer full of shelved alternators. They were somewhat organized, but it still took a while to find the one I got with the number tag on it. I spotted a few 130A alternators with the wide ears and two holes between the ribs, but they weren't in near the shape this one was. In fact, they were going to cut off the harness that was attached, but I managed to stop them and grab it.

rjmtechnologies has all ya need for the 3Gs. BTW, i got my fuse and holder from NAPA. Bench tested both of my 3Gs (one for my 93 F-150 which i used, other for my IDI still in storage) and both were 160-165A @ 2,000 rpm and around 105A @ idle. U can get the parts from RJM to rebuild them to 200As but the idle output suffers slightly from what i have seen.

Local rebuilder said a full rebuild would be $65 my cost but thats just parts because we deal with him through work so urs sounds right in line.

I have heard of rjmtechnologies before and I know they have some good stuff for these kinds of swaps. Both of my local NAPA stores on the other hand just shrugged at me and told me I would probably have to go online or find a boat shop somewhere. I think I might just go without like Typ4 recommended...
Sounds like you got lucky though! I don't think I would ever have a need for a 200amp unit, but I may have to just settle and get mine rebuilt. Or just hang onto my 3G until my 1G finally gives up!

Of that $65, what parts are included? From all that I have read, just the VR in these 3Gs are the part that tends to go out...

 

[rhkcommander]

I tried the website but they only came back with the wrong things... I'll check tomorrow and see what mine says if i didn't wrap it in electrical tape.

I never got my alt tested but I should someday . I wonder how much idle output drops