093 up pipe leak? Possible Manifold swap?

[junk]

Ok got the engine in my 93 and got it fired up. I have a leak in the Up-pipe joint for the turbo. I checked the ATS instructions to see if I missed anything. In the ATS turbo install instructions it says to remove the passenger side exhaust studs and install bolts to hold the Y part of the up-pipe to the passenger side exhaust manifold. Did I screw up by not doing that? I still have studs in that exhaust manifold. I've remove two turbos and one had bolts and one had studs. My up pipe pieces don't seem to be seated together as deep as other up-pipes I've messed with. It seems like the bottom piece needs to go up 1/4" or more. Now the space between the OD of the bottom pipe and ID of the upper pipe is only like .030" or less is there a chance that will close up once I run it a little bit?

Now if I do need to remove those studs and put bolts in I'm assuming I'll end up breaking them off so I'm wondering if it might be easier to remove the passenger side exhaust manifold to straighten this out?

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

[typ4]

The factory studs with the hex need to be removed, a good soaking with penetrant and a hit with an impact gun always removes them for me.

 

[junk]

Crap, that's what I figured. I'll soak them again then try the impact. Worst part is I got the same issue on my crewcab. Looks like it's rework time.

Thanks!

 

[icanfixall]

Sometimes when all else fails its time to read the directions. We are all subject to this "I can do it better this way" idea. No if you can get some Areokroil form Kano Labs and then soak those studs a few times allowing them to heat up and cool down I'm sure they will almost fall out. If you want them out right now heat and aerokroil cooling down the hot stud will work. What happens is the material expands around the stud and the kroil penatrates as it cools it down. A couple of times doing that and its very easy to remove. Remember those threaded holes are drilled all the way thru the cast iron manifold. So kroil sitting on top of the stud as it cools is a garentee way to make it suck in.

 

[junk]

Well I got those studs pulled and got the bolts installed. I was amazed, but some PB blaster and an impact did the job.

I reinstalled the cast Y-pipe onto the passenger exhaust manifold and I don't think it seats any deeper into the upper part of the up pipe hanging off the turbo. Now the instructions say to coat the joint with antisieze which I did. I ran the truck a little bit and it's still leaking at that joint. I'm not sure if this is OK and it will seal up or how I would go about sealing it. I tried pushing it in deeper, but then the bolts wouldn't line up on the manifold and the exhaust joint didn't seem to fit.

This is an up pipe I removed from this truck. Notice how the joint between the two pieces is probably 1/8" - 3/16" showing.

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Close up of the still connected joint

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This is the joint in the truck. The joint is probably 1/2" to 5/8" apart. The parts are mated, but I'm still concerned not deep enough.

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[typ4]

That is definately lacking in insertion depth, very strange. Maybe rock the Y a little to improve?

 

[junk]

Yeah I don't know what to think. Would I need to clock the exhaust side of the turbo a little to get this all fitting better? The turbo was a NOS ford unit I acquired off ebay. It was brand new and from ford so i would assume they clocked everything right from the factory, but i don't know.

I did try rocking the y-pipe, but it seemed like it just rode up on the bottom side of the "donut" on the manifold. Then when I put the bolts in it sucked the y-pipe back down from the up-pipe and made it seat on the Exhaust manifold well.

This has me baffled, but I'm assuming it's some sort of small thing that isn't just right keeping this from seating. Truthfully it seems like a small spacer in the up-pipe to turbo connection would push the pipe down to engage the cast y-pipe, but I'm not sure there is enough clearance around the engine. These things fit tight around that block.

Just a thought should I take a carbide and clean out the y-pipe where it mounts the to manifold and do the same to the maifold? maybe they both have stuff built up on them keeping that joint from seating fully?

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

That is definately lacking in insertion depth, very strange. Maybe rock the Y a little to improve?

i think we have a new record for a thread NOT going to the gutter. it has made it roughly 12 hours, since the comment that could have got it all started was posted.......

 

[jbm6900]

Try some header wrap around the pipes near the cab. Pain to get around there, but it helps. I use stainless tie wire to hold it in place.

 

[junk]

Header wrap for heat or leaks?

I'm about ready to pull the passenger side exhaust manifold and swap it for the other one I have. I'm wondering of they machined the raised sealing area off center. I'm grabbing at straws right now.

Good point. Normally I'm not this obsessed about insertion depth but after my issues the othe night it's all I think about.

 

[typ4]

Never assume a turbo is clocked right, although it would not fit the other places if it was off much.

 

[jbm6900]

I use it for heat, But it will prob help @ the slip leak if you can get it around it.
I'm firing mine back up tomorrow aft a Head job. NOT the fun kind.
Shoulda pulled the engine...

 

[jbm6900]

Or if the slip leaks too bad, You can prob use a band clamp.

 

[junk]

Well I put the truck back together last night. Took it out for a drive around 12:30 AM. Seems to run well. Turbo would hit 6-7PSI even with the up pipe leak. I think I'm going to run it for a while and see what happens. I tried a different cast y-piece I had laying around. I also tried loosening the exhaust manifold bolt and trying to pry the manifold up on the head at the suggestion of a local diesel shop. Nothing really seemed to help. You guys think their could be enough tolerance in the passenger side exhaust manifold machining that maybe a different manifold would help?

I then installed a 4" diamond eye exhaust kit last night. I used their 3" downpipe and attached it to my modified exhaust elbow using a 3" band clamp. It all fit pretty well.

I do have a drone in it around 55mph. Doesn't seem to be RPM dependent, but speed dependent. I'll have to check that out now. I know I have an exhaust leak at that up pipe so maybe that's my noise (although I would expect it to be rpm dependent) or maybe it's an exhaust leak other places. I just don't know.

 

[junk]

Ok I've still got a leak on the up pipe. I've beat it together and it seats well, but won't bolt to the manifold. My question to the group is how consistently are the exhaust manifolds machined? Is there a chance my exhaust manifold is machined poorly and not letting the bottom piece of the up pipe mount? Has anyone ran into that before?

A bad manifold seems like a long shot, but...I'm out of ideas.