I got my radiator from Oreillys. I had an issue with the 1/2" hose nipple not fitting. I got a 3/8" pipe tap and fixed the threads on the radiator. So far, no other issues.
UPDATE...
I pulled the radiator and thermostat and flushed the engine really well with straight water. The tubes of the radiator were clogged with normal looking deposits. The radiator had some other damage and shoddy repairs. So the truck now has a new radiator, thermostat and water pump (no...
I’ve had this truck 6 months so I don’t know any maintenance history except what I have done.
This is the first time I’ve really worked this truck. Putting around town or running with no load it doesn’t overheat, but I’m 150 miles into a 500 mile trip pulling a trailer with a tractor on it...
If you have enough metal to cause the problems you are talking about, you need to disassemble and find the worn parts. Could be gear or bearing. Might be making some noise.
Has anyone tried taking the universal pollack valve apart to fix the OE valve? I don't know that I'd trust a CHICOM valve for this. The last thing I want is to be broken down on the side of the road. with the intent of using the OE fuel lines and new electrical connector.
Exactly what i was looking for! I hope to get it checked out in the next few days.
What is the overall difference in the OE valve VS the valve that is readily available at the parts store? I'm sure it operates the same, but does it perform the same? What are the drawbacks of it?
I recently bought a 1990 F350 that had been sitting for about 2 years. It does not switch tanks. It runs normally out of the front tank. It has steady power and ground to the tank switch, and all the other wires switch on and off when tested with a test light to ground. I have been unable to...
Yes! Everything is working normally. Starts every morning like it should. I guess the true test would be to let it sit for a few days and try it again.
On to the other (less pressing) issues! Such as Fuel Selection Valve and fuel gauge not working.
Between 5 and 10 psi. My thinking was if air could get in, it could get out. I still think it could work 90% of the time. But everything would have to be blocked off. In my search for knowledge, I came across a bulletin from ford that said to block off one end and use a hand vacuum pump on the...
Now I know why you don’t use compressed air to test for air intrusion. 1. It didn’t work. 2. It made my lift pump go bad. I replaced the return caps and lines using the Standard Products kit, then couldn’t get it to prime. Found the pump wasn’t working. The caps were all OE international gray...
This has probably been discussed before but i couldn't find a thread on it. I see a lot of people using clear return line to help narrow down the air leak. Would I be asking for trouble if I block off the return and put regulated air (5 to 10 PSI) in the schrader valve and checked the system...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.