Really nice build! Especially tuned for power with safety margin if / when gauges ignored.
On that issue with the charge light, if I remember correctly some of the newer trucks have a resistor wired in parallel to the bulb so that if the bulb ( or connections ) fails charging system still...
Most of the time the other bushings and bolts under the cab are junk also it's worth it to do them all, ride is better and cab to bed lineup is better with new bushings and hardware. Getting it all apart can be a pain. Sometimes it's better just bite the bullet cut it all off make new sleeves...
My locker experience for what it's worth...
Early bronco 302, np435, 4.56, 33s with Detroit in rear with 28 spline axles, daily driven for over 20 years ( plenty 60 mph highway but no freeway ) worked hard including regular towing Willys trailer loaded with rock. A little noisey at times (...
sorry for poor cell phone picture, all I got access to at the moment.
Center of Passenger rail connect with hard Line to Center of drivers rail, end of each rail is plugged except for front of drivers which has hard line to T on pump and then temporary rubber hose down to frame return line...
Was hoping to go get this for spare / future build, don't have the space. I'm sure another will come along one day.
https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/d/ford-f250-crewcab-short-bed/6618630233.html
Any wire will work for a patch in a pinch, if you want to go into the door and the pillar and replace at all with something that lasts, silicone insulated meter lead wire is extremely flexible and works good. A little difficult to find multiple colors ( there used to be a place called easy hook...
Can try run without shocks for a couple days whether ride improves or gets worse it will help you with a direction to pursue.
worn out ( junkyard ) F150 springs will ride much better, can use most of old stiff spring pack as overloads as needed. They can be fairly quick to install and remove...
My experience, not exactly apples to apples....
10 years and 100k on 1985 SRW F350 5.8 gasser T19 and ranger OD with 4.88 rear and 34.5" tire 3300' to sea level and back daily. Great control and brake life in hills w/ 2k of tools in bed ( 7-7.5I gvw ), can shift with or w/ out clutch, can split...
Nice job so far, just 1 pilot bushing / bearing, if you can get bronze bushing they seem to be more forgiving on install and last longer. You may want to look at replace that trans input bearing retainer ( throw out slides on it ) for smoother clutch operation over time. Cut heads off some 4"...
I just scanned this thread briefly and I'm not sure if it was mentioned but reverse bleeding often helps. use a syringe to pull the master down to the minimum level then use another syringe to push fresh brake fluid in through the bleeder screw and up to the master cylinder, repeat. This some...
I would suggest googling for images on full field Ford externally regulated alternator. It's a pretty simple jumper wire A to F terminals, B+ to F works also. It's only a good idea to do it for a few seconds with a voltmeter measuring system voltage as it will go to the max the alternator can...
To check the fusible link that charges the battery from the alternator use a voltmeter to check alternator case to charge wire battery stud (thickest wire on aalternator) you should have system voltage, if more than .5volts different from battery you have issues.
Check alternator ground with...
Could it be IP binding/ sticking when it gets warm? How long was truck down w/ IP off? If compression is good narrowing down cause between advance & fueling can be done with a spare innector and line connected with injector spraying into bottle to check fuel delvery. Cooling IP by pouring water...
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