I'll just throw my info in for giggles here. I had issues with my wastegate cracking open at 10psi when I just had it unhooked, so I made a rod to lock it out. Now it'll boost up to ~15 psi on ****. I have stock N/A, 270k+ mile everything except some R&D Stage 1 injectors.
I know my timing is...
I seriously doubt you'll see any performance gain from any aftermarket filter a mostly stock, N/A engine. I'd stick with a good ol' fashioned paper filter from somebody like WIX and enjoy the fact that you're not sucking in a bunch of dirt from a "high flow" filter.
I had a 4" Magnaflow straight through muffler installed until very recently. It sounded great before I turbo'd, so I left it alone post-boost as well. I took it off to tweak the tailpipe setup a bit the other day and HOLY COW does it sound soooo much better without it! The exhaust burble isn't...
I zip tied the E4OD range selector switch up to the frame and left it in neutral. No need for a clutch safety switch then, and it saved a lot of time. I just jumped a couple of wires out of the auto switch for the ZF reverse lights and hit the road.
My Dad has always said that as well. I cannot say for sure either way, but I find it pretty hard to believe that the OE's care that much about how well your 4x does in deep mud/snow/sand. Lol
Here's a correction for the above post.
I am the owner of said 3.55 geared truck. As stated in my sig, I have a 460 ZF which is lower geared. Overall gearing on mine is a good bit lower than his in first gear. Could this be the reason for his situation?
Good quality, properly maintained spacers should have no negatives. Steel spacers are the better ones, but aluminum ones are cheaper and much more common.
I have read that the OE's make the front track wider than the rear to help with stability when hauling a heavy trailer. I'm not sure how much...
Yep, Dana 60 fronts are actually about 3.5" wider than the pickup Sterling rears. I've got 2" spacers in the back and it seems that only I can tell that it's ever so slightly wider than the front now. Nobody else has mentioned it anyway. Lol
Sweet! Thanks guys! That's exactly what I needed to know. I never actually installed my clutch safety switch anyway, so no issues for me there. My truck still thinks the E4OD is in neutral. Lol
Thanks Franklin. I was actually considering doing just that before I came across the older rod. It's hardly worth messing with mine if I can just buy an adjustable one for $10 though. Lol
So, I've been looking around but haven't had any luck with this. I'm fairly certain that my clutch rod is too long, and not letting my pressure plate fully engage the clutch disk.
It appears that the earlier trucks have an adjustable rod...
Well, he said he's got 215/65's. A 265/75 is considerably larger than that...
Edit::
I'm also of the school of thought that if you don't turn around to look at your ride after you park it, then you didn't buy the right vehicle :)
If that were my van, I would definitely go for more rubber. Something in the 265/75 range would improve the look as well, imo. Is there any sheet metal behind the tire to cut out without needing to do a lot of firewall work?
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