Truck in Shop......idiot drivers

[dakotajeep]

88beast

I could do it myself but the fact that I am on vacation over Christmas and lack the heated shop (pretty much a necessity during the winter up here) and the tools with me to repair it.

Otherwise I might consider it. Other than I would rather not deal with it over Christmas. At least my father in law lets me borrow his 84 F150 4x4. Than rig is impressive......just keeps running.

Thad

 

[Sycostang67]

That doesn't look too bad at all. I had a 95 F-150, in which I rear ended two different cars. The first time my drivers door refused to open, so I got in and out dukes of hazzard style for a few days until I got it to the shop.

 

[Goofyexponent]

I had a guy rearend my 1996 F150 with a 2007 Corolla....other than the car pushing my truck ahead 2 feet....I wouldn't have known I got hit. NO damage to the truck at all. The Corolla was a COMPLETE loss...I couldn't believe the damage done to the car!!

 

[dakotajeep]

goofy.....

I had that happen in an 83 Chevy PU and I got a little red paint on my bumper......

This time its more than red paint but I think it is salvagable/keepable for me.

 

[Goofyexponent]

I would say that it is definitly repairable. If they try and write it off, buy it back. Insist on Ford parts too, that's what was on it before it got hit...that's what should be on it after it is fixed!!

 

[dakotajeep]

I know this is off topic but I know who to listen to in this forum so I want feedback from you guys. Plus there is way less traffic in the the Powerstorke forum!!!!

I went over today and gave this rig a once over:

1997 F350 XLT 4x4 CC 7.3 5sp for $8,900. 150,000 miles.

Before Startup:
Upon visual inspection the only things I noticed before I started it was oil residue on the top of the engine under the turbo, the battery connections all had slight corrosion on the terminals and the coolant reservoir was on the low side.

Startup:
The rig had not been started in a few days at least. The temperature outside was -1F. I cycled the glowplugs twice and the rig started up and after a few seconds it settled on the high idle. The heater/defroster works fine and warmed up the rig in a hurry.

Warmup:
While I was letting it idle I noticed the engine was vibrating alot but it smoothed out after it warmed up. (It understand diesels dont like cold but is that NORMAL?) At this point I saw a little red coolant drip and red spot in the snow . It was dripping off the oil pan and looked to be coming from up around the rear of the engine.

Short Drive:
I pulled the rig around to the front of the shop to have the mechanic look at it. Went in to 4x4 easily and shifted through the first few gears without issue!!! While it was parked by the shop it was still leaking coolant. Total it looked to be about a coffee cup of fluid that had leaked out.

What are the possible issues? I am thinking leaky hose or cracked head. How much would a cracked head cost? What other issues could be related to the coolant leak?

Otherwise the only htings wrong with the truck is that the back seat middle seat belt is cut and the drivers side rear window switch is inoperative. The window was operating fromt he drivers seat but not the switch in the rear seat.

Thanks for any thoughts.

Thad

 

[firemedicmonkey]

Let me tell you a story...

Tough Trucks???
1990 F-250 HD 4x4 5.0L Gaser 4 Spd Manual...

1) Hauling a 5500 lb Full Size Monte Carlo on a trailer, in a rain storm. Idiot in front of me slams on the brakes for a yellow... I start sliding... I go right and end up with the whole truck in a 4ft deep ditch... A big rock brings me to a hault... Trailer is still on the edge of the road / ditch and upright...

Put it in 4wd Low and Reverse easy the clutch out and back out the ditch. Continue on like nothing happened...

2) 300 Miles from home hauling over a done of rock and dirt in the back. Doing 55 mph and the guy up ahead slams on his brakes for green light... Long story short I skidded for over 150 ft trying to get it stopped. The ol' truck ate a ranger and explorer...

I got out jumped up and down on the hood so I could see. Ratchet strapped the hood down... Drove it back to where I was staying. Checked it out no leaks. Drove it home 300 miles @ 70 mph the whole way... Drove it for over a year until the fuel pump quit... This is what is looks like sitting behind the shop...

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[sassyrel]

know someone in a shop--that knew your truck real well before this happened??? have them put a value on it--that would be prior to hit--then tell their ins co what you would settle for--if they try and lowball ya--tell em youll call the state ins commisioner--they dont want to hear that--then let em total it--and you get first option to buy it back-- the salvage yards put bids on it--tell em when you buy it back--you want to see the bids--not that a ins co would try and screw ya!!!!!!!!!!you get a bid of 6000 buy off,buy it back for 1000--you get 5000 check--and maybe 1000 max to fix it--good ,no????

 

[dakotajeep]

we'll see.....my wife is starting to think this rig is cursed. If it doesnt break.......there is something else........like an accident.

Thad

 

[6.9poweredscout]

after seeing your bumper...i need to find a wrecker bumper for my 250!

-Jon

 

[Fordman75]

I might be mistaken but don't the 92-97 Ford trucks have a crumple zone in the front frame rails right behind the front bumper?

If they do you might need to have those pulled out/repaired on a frame rack. Besides that it looks like a pretty simple repair job.

 

[TWeatherford]

I would be curious to know how those bambi basher bumpers hold up in a lighter crash, like this one. I would really like one, because I know that it would allow me to plow a deer and not even cause much damage, whereas if I hit one now it'll likely take out a headlight or two, damage the grille, and probably bend the hood. I guess the main question is what would happen on those crumple zones in the frame, would the giant bumper help or would it be better to let the bumper and body take a hit, seeing as they're easier to replace than a frame?

As for the original poster, I hope you get your truck back safe and sound, and if not at least you are able to recoup some losses by selling parts. I know the feeling of maybe having a cursed rig. While I don't think any truck is truly cursed sometimes you gotta just quit pouring money into one and start fresh. I really felt for you (it was you, right) when your trans gave it up 2000 miles from home and you had to bite the bullet and pay to have it replaced. Crashing a truck which you have so much time and money into is sickening.

 

[Halltrail]

recent accident

Hey there, I had a recent accident too with similar front end damage. I found a body shop who worked with me and allowed one of his guys to do the work on the side. He was able to pull out the damage to the fender (not perfect but it looks pretty damn good) It was shoved into the passanger door too...but that was an easy fix for him. The hood was crumpled and he pulled that out too.

Now the front end, I needed a bumper, passanger headlight assembly, the filler, headlight mounting thing (big piece that goes accross the whole front end. I was able to go to a pick and pull junk yard and get everything I needed for the front end for $140. I also picked up a pristine fender for another $30 although I didnt use it. My radiator got pushed back into the fan and leaked out..so I did need a new radiator (most expensive part since I bought a new one) $350. Shop put everything back together for me for $400.

I dont know if you have pick and pull junk yards...but maybe you can try the method I used. Heck, I really didnt need to pay the guy to put all the parts back on...since I pulled them off donar trucks...but it was a time savings. Plus, the guy had already pulled out the body damage. Good luck!

 

[Knuckledragger]

I know this is off topic but I know who to listen to in this forum so I want feedback from you guys. Plus there is way less traffic in the the Powerstorke forum!!!!

I went over today and gave this rig a once over:

1997 F350 XLT 4x4 CC 7.3 5sp for $8,900. 150,000 miles.

Before Startup:
Upon visual inspection the only things I noticed before I started it was oil residue on the top of the engine under the turbo, the battery connections all had slight corrosion on the terminals and the coolant reservoir was on the low side.

Startup:
The rig had not been started in a few days at least. The temperature outside was -1F. I cycled the glowplugs twice and the rig started up and after a few seconds it settled on the high idle. The heater/defroster works fine and warmed up the rig in a hurry.

Warmup:
While I was letting it idle I noticed the engine was vibrating alot but it smoothed out after it warmed up. (It understand diesels dont like cold but is that NORMAL?) At this point I saw a little red coolant drip and red spot in the snow . It was dripping off the oil pan and looked to be coming from up around the rear of the engine.

Short Drive:
I pulled the rig around to the front of the shop to have the mechanic look at it. Went in to 4x4 easily and shifted through the first few gears without issue!!! While it was parked by the shop it was still leaking coolant. Total it looked to be about a coffee cup of fluid that had leaked out.

What are the possible issues? I am thinking leaky hose or cracked head. How much would a cracked head cost? What other issues could be related to the coolant leak?

Otherwise the only htings wrong with the truck is that the back seat middle seat belt is cut and the drivers side rear window switch is inoperative. The window was operating fromt he drivers seat but not the switch in the rear seat.

Thanks for any thoughts.

Thad

Thad,

You don't really say if you want to keep the truck. If you do, go ahead and fix it yourself, if the Ins. company totals it.

As far as drips and such, remember that normal driving does not have too much in the way of sudden stops and other trauma. What has happened is that joints that normally would have been fine for a long time have been jarred loose. Look to the radiator hoses for coolant leaks, perhaps even the radiator inlet/outlet.

The same scenario goes for trans fluid. The joints that carry it are far more likely to have sprung a leak from being moved by the wreck. power steering hoses and their fittings are very touchy about being nicked or molested once they are sealed.

I know nothing about powerstrokes, but like the family feeling that this forum brings to everyone. I'm staying put with my IDI.

 

[dakotajeep]

TWeatherford

YEah that was me last year with the broken transmission. I have legitimately over $9,500 in this truck (trans, radiator, turbo, gauges, brake work, topper plus the original purchase price) yet I wont get but 4-5K out of it max. Now this happens. Its just frustrating.

The only reason I bought this truck was to save money. I was driving a 06 F150 when I bought this. The F150 was just getting to be too fancy of a truck for what I use it for plus it was costing me a ton each month. So I decided to buy this pickup. I have saved over the long haul but all the improvements and repairs have cut into that savings.

Yes, I know that this truck is cheaper than others but I am still frustrated.

I should just go and make my 68 streetable. Nothing on it is super expensive to repair. Just isnt much of a looker!!!

Going to hear back from the Insurance adjuster and the salesman with the 97 F350 today.....kinda anxious!

Thad

Knuckle dragger.....this forum and another like it are the main reason I am even thinking about keeping this rig!!!!! Otherwise it would be gone!!! I just want something with a 5 speed and a little nicer all around. This just creates that opportunity for me.