GP Testing #2

By the good Graces of Mel Agnem, here is a start of the testing.

Edit on 01/02/14
These two tests are only to show how much current 8 glow plugs draw during a GP cycle. The Voltage test is to show the voltage drop in a fully charged battery during the cycle.

After 6 Hrs, finding out how to do this. Making Video's and U-tube account and finding out to upload to U-tube, then finding the videos on there.

Testing was done with the Temp at 41*F, all GP's were connected with same size wire as a harness, the controller is new, the current/voltage supply wires are #2 AWG to handle the current for the current shunt readings. Power supply is done with a Series 65 battery. Glow plugs are new ZD9 Motorcraft/Beru.

Next (3rd) testing will continue with double (Parallel) #10 Ga. fuseible links as close as I can get to the OEM circuit.
4th testing will be done with 1 - 2 - and 3 glow plugs removed,as if they were bad.
Please: NO; My system is like this, start another Thread if you want to explain yours or compare it to this. Comments are Welcome.

The 1st video shows how quick the voltage drops as soon as you turn the key on. Voltage drops from 12.6 to 8.0 instantly and remains there all thru the GP cycle for 10 seconds, I turned it on at 3 seconds. voltage rise at GP cycle end indicates battery recovery voltage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ez2R7kfC5vA

The second Video shows current draw. After the switch is turned ON, you can see it takes about a second for the current to be recorded, I think that is because the Z strip (Chromolox) controls the rush in current. Instant current is 192 Amps then goes down to about 126 Amps until the ON/OFF cycle begins. The digital meter can't track the pulse Amps, but it gets a shot of Voltage on each closing of the relay to keep the GP's glowing.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfTUka27UVo

Wow...Awesome stuff thanks! Gotta make sticky of this.

Had watch couple times...love the tree of plugs in back ground could you make em different colour bulbs?

How bout some close ups of those bulbs rofl

Just a suggestion but a verbal overview of the entire setup would be nice too!

Love this, now we need to locate you some NOTTO lites and CRAPPIons to test with too and see how long before smoke comes out

Yeah Al; plan on doing a test with a stuck on relay, see how long the GP's last. Might get a little expensive, unless someone sends me some good used ones, like when they change all there's and have some good ones left over. Any brand will do. I'll pay shipping if it's done in a Small Flat Rate Box.

PM me yer address...u can have me used autolites I've got 2 more sets of new beru's....wife hates my parts hording! I think 6 of the 8 test lighted ok...u get em all and you sort em out rofl

Seeing this reminds me of how my grandpa, who was an electrical engineer for the US Govt his whole life, lived and swore by the old Simpson 260 meters. He had every type of VOM known to man, but ALWAYS used the Simpson. They are impervious to load fluctuations, and are not affected by voltage dips like digital meters are, and their response time is incredibly quick.

When he died he left all of his shop equipment to me, which in my foolish youth I E-bay'd most of it for quick cash, and live a life of regret as a result...

Its really hard to beat the Simpson meters. Thats all the electricians used in the power plants I worked at for 30 years. They just keep on doing their job safely.

I have some ac delco that you can burn up. 5 of the 8 still tested good. I could also send some brand new Bosch that you could use for a good test of amperage draw from a different grand as long as I could get them back.

PM me your mailing address again if you are interested.

Thanks for doing this!

Neat stuff

Well I have some new ZD9's so I thought some room temp resistance measurements are in order
First plug
.24 Ohms
.23 Ohms
.23 Ohms
.23 Ohms
.23 Ohms
.24 Ohms
(hmm I seems to be missing a few...)
These are PTC (positive temperature coefficient), so they will increase with resistance as they heat up (As you have shown)

So I'll take a torch to one
I can only get it to a moderately bright red, resistance increase to .50 Ohms, I can see them hitting .60 Ohms at bright orange
(I have a meter designed for low ohms specifically, it read .01 to 99 ohms and has a zero for the test leads so its fairly accurate)

Also the resister (z thing as many call it) is used for current sensing on the controller, it read .01 Ohms cold (I cant see it heating up too much, then again 2v with 200A is 400Watts of power) you can use that as another current sense with a volt meter (leads on both ends of it) and see how much current there drawing. eg, volt meter reads 1.92V and resistor is .01Ohms, 1.92v/.01Ohms= 192 Amps

This is exactly how the controller uses the glow plugs for a temp sensor by seeing how much current they draw at the beginning and adjusting time the plugs are required on.
Also why the doesn't play nice when you have dead plugs....

P.s I do understand that some of you already know most of this but for the ones that don't heres a bit more of an inside look.

JM2C
Dave

Hahahahahahaha

^ a big understatement/misinformation.

Turn your key on and wait for the controller to start clicking. Then stick your arm on that z strip.

ASK ME HOW I KNOW!

Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk

79jasper said:

Hahahahahahaha

^ a big understatement/misinformation.

Turn your key on and wait for the controller to start clicking. Then stick your arm on that z strip.

ASK ME HOW I KNOW!

Click to expand...

I thought about that after and added in that z strip could be putting out at least 400 watts even more too, anyone up for bacon and eggs
Ever felt how hot that fusible link gets also... I'm surprised they don't melt instantly but only being on for 10-15 seconds gives them the chance to take huge power without dieing,

Anything new?

thanks man just when I think I am starting to understand I get shown how much I don't know. Awesome keep it up!