What's the best truck for WMO?

So far my switching valve has worked fine -gauges work too - and cross contamination has been minimal. In fact I replaced my fuel filter one time after just twenty miles on the D2 tank the filter was full of clean clear diesel! That really surprised me.

This car was, of course, single tank to begin with. And the lift pump is on the side of the engine and the fuel filter is after the lift pump. Each fuel system has its own screen filter, but they share a main filter. It makes for a lot of WMO to share.

On the next setup... if you add another cheap valve on the return side, you can all but eliminate cross contamination.

On the idi truck, after 150 or more gallons of w80, the main tank is also always black... its mostly diesel (has had multiple full tanks of d2 through it)... but its still black as coal.

Doesn't really hurt anything... but the cummins is very picky about short/cold drives on any amount of wmo... cokes injectors pretty quickly.

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The Mercedes was like that before I advanced the timing. I don't have too much trouble now. I don't know how the Dodge is, but it's pretty simple to pull the fuel lines and the injectors to chip things away. The crows foot adapter is key for that job.

The valve is $50.00 and it's been working so darned good until now.

I started off running WMO in a 7.3IDI and my primary vehicle is now a 7.3PSD. I've put over 30K miles on the PSD the last two years and haven't had any major issues. I'm replacing the injectors today, I think it's more that the truck has 260K miles than the 30K miles of WMO though. I centrifuge excessively, have a pump setup with redundant filters, and feel like all my major mistakes are behind me....to the point that I also run WMO in my 40' RV powered by a 8.3 ISC Cummins.

But to answer your question though, in terms of entry level price, the IDI is the way to go. If you need the extra power and don't mind the higher parts and purchase costs, the PSD has worked well for me.

I've looked at a LOT of ads and it looks like I'm going with the 7.3 Powerstroke. I like the Dodges better, but you double the price when you say "Dodge." The wife has pretty much nixed the idea of an IDI. She says they're not "pretty" enough. The Powerstroke will give me a more modern engine to experiment on, anyway. I'm going to go look at one on Sunday. It's at a good price, so I have to figure out exactly "why?"

I have heard several good reports from powerstroke users who agree with leswitt that they get great results. I have experienced the same as you when it comes to Dodge, way over priced. I have six kids so I am alternating between a IDI powered motor home and 7.3 PSD Excursion for family vacations. So I will be interested to hear your results with a PS.

My wish list is 4 door, manual transmission, 1 ton, 4x4 (for the boat). 4 door is not negotiable. Manual transmission would be negotiable if the truck were nearly free. The other two are negotiable.[/QUOTE]

THAT truck,,is almost like a needle in a haystack,,esp if its a 93 or 4,,with a factory turbo....

sassyrel - I've seen them. You can buy them all day long if you are willing to drive a few hours and you have $12K to drop.

I ended up with a '95 7.3 Powerstroke. It's a 3/4 ton, 4 wheel drive, 5 speed, supercab. I didn't get my 4 doors, but the price was so right that I couldn't pass it up. I'll deal with getting into the back seat until I can get a nice truck. Now it's just a matter of spending a couple of weeks sorting out all of the gremlins... bad injector, blown heater hose, plugged oil cooler, loose tie rod ends, and setting up for black diesel - of course!

I think you'll be happy with that truck, assuming you can get it sorted out. The only thing I don't like about my 3/4 ton is the Dana 50 front end. I really wish Ford would have just used a Dana 60 on all of their HD trucks...Anyway, hopefully you can it all worked out. If you need cheap tie-rods, you can get Moog parts at RockAuto and all the other parts you'll need for about 1/10th of the cost of a shop. If you can figure it out, you can rough it in yourself and get it to the shop for an alignment after to save some serious $$$.

Do you plan on replacing all the injectors, or just the bad one? If you do all of them, look into getting ones for veggie oil, as i think they have better results with WMO also (higher pop pressures and better spray pattern I think...I don't know with power strokes).

And I always thought a manual trans would be better for WMO, because you can control the RPM's better to get a better burn and what not...

I plan to get a used injector to replace the bad one, then rebuild them all with a 100HP rebuild kit. They're pretty easy to do. As far as the front end goes... the truck has 4.10 gears now and I want 3.73 - unless I can find an overdrive unit somewhere. 80% of the driving I do is interstate. Nobody seems to want the 3.73 stuff and I've seen complete used axles for the $300.00 range.

The best way I've come up with to do alignment is by using an infrared thermometer. It will adjust for ACTUAL driving conditions. You just get out after driving and quickly check the temperatures across the tire. Inner, middle, and outer temps should be similar. If your alignment is off, it will show up in the temps.

paramax55 said:

I've solved the ethanol problem by using ethanol free RUG . If I couldn't get a hold of that, I'd just add water to the RUG before mixing it in. Water will make ethanol settle to the bottom and any that gets left over will come out in the centrifuge. .

Click to expand...

What is the amount of water in the mix ?