Stupid timing mistake...need help

Did something really stupid, not knowing it was stupid until reading another thread. I removed my IP timing gear cover & the gear ..............before marking it's location. It's close to where it was prior to removal just not sure how close.

How do I reset the timing for this gear?

There is a good write up somewhere on the net about how to do this. I just can't locate it at the moment.

Until then, From 93-94 Tech Pub:

Installation



1. Clean all gasket and sealing surfaces with a suitable solvent and dry thoroughly.



NOTE:

To determine that No. 1 piston is at TDC of compression stroke, position injection pump drive gear dowel at the four o'clock position. The scribe line in vibration damper should be at TDC.



2. With drawn line on drive gear at six o'clock position, install gear and align all drive gear timing marks.



CAUTION:

Use extreme care to avoid disturbing injection pump drive gear, once it is in position.



3. Apply a 3.16mm (1/8 inch) bead of Silicone Rubber Sealant D6AZ-19562-BA (ESB-M4G92-A) or equivalent along bottom surface of injection pump drive gear cover.



NOTE:

When applying Silicone Rubber Sealant D6AZ-19562-BA (ESB-M4G92-A) or equivalent always use the bead size specified and join the components within 15 minutes of application. After 15 minutes, sealant begins to set-up and sealing effectiveness may be reduced.



4. Install injection pump drive gear cover and tighten retaining bolts to 19 N-m (14 ft-lb). Apply Perfect Seal Sealing Compound B5A-19554-A (ESR-M18P2-A) or equivalent to bolt threads before assembly.



NOTE:

With injection pump drive gear cover installed, the injection pump drive gear cannot "jump" timing.



5. Remove intake manifold cover. Install air cleaner, refer to «Section 03-12».



6. Install ground cables to both batteries.



NOTE:

On vehicles equipped with EEC, when the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.



7. Run engine and check for oil, fuel and coolant leaks.



WARNING:

KEEP EYES AND HANDS AWAY FROM NOZZLE SPRAY. FUEL SPRAYING FROM THE NOZZLE UNDER HIGH PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE THE SKIN AND CAUSE INFECTION. MEDICAL ATTENTION SHOULD BE PROVIDED IMMEDIATELY IN THE EVENT OF SKIN PENETRATION.



8. If necessary, purge high-pressure fuel lines of air by loosening connector one-half to one turn and cranking engine until bubble-free fuel flows from connection.



9. Install engine cover (E-250-350 only).

From Jon:
ok,you gotta 50 50 change on getting it right.Line up the marks on the crank and the timing cover.Take the gear on the IP and find the Y marking.Count 19 teeth in each direction from that tooth marked with a Y.Mark said teeth with a paint pen.Now,take a straight edge and connect said dots with a line.Put the gear back in alone with the Y down and the line even with the front of the timing cover.This is not a fool proof method but it is easiest.There is a 50% chance that the gear is now 180 degrees off but that will only mean you need to light up the marks again,Pull the gear out taking note if the Y is on top or bottom this time.If it was on bottom then give the engine a full turn and line up the marks.Now put the gear back on like you did before using the line across the face.Pretty easy and you have a good chance on getting it right the first time.

In this post:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?p=154578#post154578

If I understand your question correctly I have a saved posting from Zig which may help. I'll paste it in below. I'm having trouble getting the simple drawing to come up on the paste, so I'll also send it to your last known email address. The drawing comes up in my email client. Hope this helps.



ziggster40
Member


Member # 1458

Reged: 05/24/99
Posts: 2559
Loc: Victoria,B.C.,Canada
How to align the inj. pump gear after cover removed!! #1612546 - 01/25/04 06:50 PM Edit Reply Quote


I just remembered that on friday when I went over to visit Paul at DAS he mentioned to me a way to get the pump gear aligned once the cover has been removed that sounds a lot easier than screwing around with a flashlight and mirror on a stick and stuff.

What you do is lift off the injection pump cover and then the gear. Find the "y" mark at the bottom which points to the tooth that is supposed to align with a dot on the cam gear below(the one you can't see when it's assembled. From that tooth, you count up the gear towards the top on both sides 19 teeth. Put a mark on the 19th tooth on each side, then scribe a line between the two. This line will now run across the front of the gear, and be just above the deck when the gear is lowered into position. You can easily tell if it is out one tooth or not as the line will not be level with the top of the block. You can then lower the cover onto the gear all the while watching the mark to see it doesn't move. Too easy!!

Should look kinda like this.....pic here..

Hope that helps someone, I haven't tried it myself yet, but you can bet I will soon.

gandalf said:

If I understand your question correctly I have a saved posting from Zig which may help. I'll paste it in below. I'm having trouble getting the simple drawing to come up on the paste, so I'll also send it to your last known email address.

Click to expand...

Is this the pic you wanted? Zigg's Page Timing Marks & Zigg's Talk about Timing

tuckerd1 said:

Is this the pic you wanted? Zigg's Page Timing Marks & Zigg's Talk about Timing

Click to expand...

No, thats not it. Zig posted a simple drawing in the post showing the process, or the results of the process. I couldn't get it to come up in my post, and it was also missing in the email I sent. I too looked at Zigg's page, but couldn't fine it.

damn this forum is wonderful...... what is it about these trucks that gets so many good people together in one area? great job with the info fella's!

Thanks for all the input guys. I printed out Zigg's article & the pics along with it. I was smart enough to mark the adaptor housing b4 taking the IP out to retain Mel's timing setting. So if I get the gear timed right I should be right back to where I was b4 IP failed

I've never set anything to TDC before I'm a little embarrassed to admit but I've just never had to do it yet. So, if I can get that right I should be back in good shape. Already counted out my 19 teeth to each side. Zigg's article is very good especially to a moron like me. Easy to understand. Thanks Zigg & everyone else with the help. Ken should have my pump repaired by tommorrow & back to me soon!

Scott,
No need to be embaressed, Eric and I had not done it either. We gave each other the deer in the headlight look when we read that in Haynes.

This is what we assumed had to be done to be at TDC:

Below the hole Mel uses for the timing probe is a line. There is also a line on the ?? (harmonic balancer?) in front of it. Use a cheater bar and some muscle (I used Eric ) to get them lined up. As far as I know, that is TDC. It would be best to have a helper watch with a light from the top while you are wrenching. You want me to swing by this evening?

If any one knows for a fact, or different, I know they will chime in!

Joe, That should be it. A line on the harmonic balancer and another reference line on a bracket fastened to the block. Align those two and you should be at TDC.

To check the accuracy of the bracket in reference to the balancer you can check it using method #2 HERE

A homemade manometer! Pretty neat idea!

hee hee hee,I don't even have to type to reply.....people to it for me now......dang!Thanks.....But it ain't all that hard.Pull the number 1 glow plug or injector(GP might be easier).With your finger over or in the hole hit the starter solinoid with a screw driver until the compression stroke blows you finger off....Off the hole that is.Look at the balancer below and line the groove up with the timing mark.There ya go....Just mark 19 teeth from the Y on the IP gear both ways and draw a line.Drop the gear back in so the line is level with the front timing cover edge,Put the cover back on and yoru gear train is set......now don't do that again.....B-P

Scott

You should be good to go if you follow the line technique. However, TDC is recognized as #1 piston at the top of travel on Compression stroke, not exhaust, so like Freight said, you need to pull the glow plug on #1 and determine when the piston is coming up to the top of compression(air will be forced out of the glow hole) and then when the lines are aligned on the dampener, it should be right. Drop the pump into place, and you're good to go.

I've done it a few times, and it works flawlessly.

Zigg

Sorry, been on the road ALOT. Joe, yes I could use some help if your offering. Tuckered, Freight & Zigg, thanks for the explanation. I've got new GP's & a new throttle cable to put in while the IP & intake hat are out of the way so pulling the #1 GP to be sure of TDC is right in line with my plans.

Hope to get some work done on it this weekend, but I haven't seen the kiddies all week. Don't know how much truck time I'll get. Anybody got any extra 12 point IP bolts laying around? A set of 2 yr old fingers was playing in the parts bucket & hid some IP bolts & 1 bolt that goes on the back of the housing. Also missing both e clips from my kick-down rod!! Note to self: Pick parts bucket up off floor before leaving town!!! Anybody got these parts in spare? I got some money?

Yes, Scot I am offering.

Trying to get the new pool up today and hit a set back. My dad tried to catch a stainless steel panel as it was falling. He is at Hanover Hospital getting his finger stiched up! Trying to get Steph up there to baby sit so my brother can come home and help me finish.

Any day after work thius week should be ok. Next weekend I would like to tackle my truck. Let me know or call my cell.

What picture is this and where do I find it .

gandalf said:

No, thats not it. Zig posted a simple drawing in the post showing the process, or the results of the process. I couldn't get it to come up in my post, and it was also missing in the email I sent. I too looked at Zigg's page, but couldn't fine it.

Click to expand...