Fuel selector valve

Would it hurt to run the truck with one of the tanks disconnected? Does the valve seal well enough to move the truck from the garage to the driveway without filling the lines with air? I realize it probably depends on the condition of the valve, but I'm a little reluctant to start shoving things into the port trying to plug it up.

I only have about an hour a day in the evenings to work on something and I need to drop both tanks one at a time and fix the broken showerheads. I'm tired of doing the 1/4 tank sweat. I just want to make sure I can move the truck out and lock up. She's waay to big to sleep in the garage.

Long as you have the switch on the tank still connected, you're good to go.
Unless your valve is sticking.


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The front tank is easy to repair the shower head. you do not need to drop the tank. Just reach up and remove the electrical and the fuel lines. Those lines have a clip for each size. Remember which ones go to which side. then knock the ring loose and lift out the sender unit. Add 3 or 4 inches of 3/8 hose and a clamp and your done. What to make sure the small pieces of the broken shower head don't mess up the tank switching valve add some kind of screen on the end of the hose. Another idea is add about 3 inches of a brass nipple and an end cap to the line but drill several holes in it to suck fuel thru. Make the holes small enough to act like a strainer filter idea. Be sure to make enough holes to equal the size of the 3/8 line we draw fuel thru. The original show head sat on the bottom of the tank. It had some raised areas around the screen to allow fuel under it. The neck had a flexible link in it that allowed it to rest easy on the bottom of the tank. Too bad the suction heads were made of the wrong material and broke off in many tanks

Even here in California the retaining ring was rusted on enough to where I had to bend the flange back to get it off of there. I shudder to think of doing that blind.

I went with the hose and clamp. No problems yet. The factory strainer is a joke anyway.

I just dropped the tank. I have little girl arms, but I wasn't sure I could get all the plastic bits out with the tank in place. My showerhead was in about a 1000 pieces all over the inside of the tank. The plastic they make those things out of turns to grit between your fingers when you squeeze it.

Has anyone used copper line in their tank? Will it corrode? Maybe capped on the end then coiled really tight into a flat spool about 3" around with all the holes on the bottom and compression fitted on the pickup tube? If it's about .5" off the bottom it shouldn't pull too much sediment. My tank is spotless inside.

Mcgyver swung by this evening and dropped this off. Should I run it? I need a 3/8 compression couple.

Go for it.
Anything but galvanized stuff.


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Very nice looking work. My only suggestion is to extend the suction line down closer to the bottom of the screen. Then you will draw up more of the fuel in the tank. Also I would connect this shower head to the factory line with 2 hose clamps and a piece of rubber hose. Leave on or both hose clamps off or lose and press down on the sender so this touches the bottom of the tank. Then remove the sender and clamp it tight to the suction line.

Interesting.. A lot of beautiful work here. A lot of different things used.. Me? I used a tape measure- carefully. When I replaced the sender/pickup/return unit I just straightened the pickup pipe until it was within 1/8" of the tank bottom and safety wired some SS bug screen over the end to keep out the chunks (if any, since I cleaned the tank before re-hanging it). Did that about four years ago and it's still working fine.

needlenose said:

Mcgyver swung by this evening and dropped this off. Should I run it? I need a 3/8 compression couple.

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Click to expand...

Sure hope material on screen edges is fuel compatible

Might want to straighten out 6 or so of those tabs. Would keep it off the bottom.

riotwarrior said:

Sure hope material on screen edges is fuel compatible

Click to expand...

It's the factory screen, I just re-used it. Figured it was better than anything I could try to make work. Beside, it was just sitting there at the bottom of the tank looking at me.

I'm fixing to have to remove the rear sender so I will see how it's been holding up. The rear tank is reading way past full no matter how much fuel is in there.

Verry nice work, +1 on gary's ,,,'extend the pipe down to the bottom' even a 90* on the end would help keep from sucking straight off the tank bottom.