By the good Graces of Mel Agnem, here is a start of the testing.
Edit on 01/02/14
These two tests are only to show how much current 8 glow plugs draw during a GP cycle. The Voltage test is to show the voltage drop in a fully charged battery during the cycle.
After 6 Hrs, finding out how to do this. Making Video's and U-tube account and finding out to upload to U-tube, then finding the videos on there.
Testing was done with the Temp at 41*F, all GP's were connected with same size wire as a harness, the controller is new, the current/voltage supply wires are #2 AWG to handle the current for the current shunt readings. Power supply is done with a Series 65 battery. Glow plugs are new ZD9 Motorcraft/Beru.
Next (3rd) testing will continue with double (Parallel) #10 Ga. fuseible links as close as I can get to the OEM circuit.
4th testing will be done with 1 - 2 - and 3 glow plugs removed,as if they were bad.
Please: NO; My system is like this, start another Thread if you want to explain yours or compare it to this. Comments are Welcome.
The 1st video shows how quick the voltage drops as soon as you turn the key on. Voltage drops from 12.6 to 8.0 instantly and remains there all thru the GP cycle for 10 seconds, I turned it on at 3 seconds. voltage rise at GP cycle end indicates battery recovery voltage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ez2R7kfC5vA
The second Video shows current draw. After the switch is turned ON, you can see it takes about a second for the current to be recorded, I think that is because the Z strip (Chromolox) controls the rush in current. Instant current is 192 Amps then goes down to about 126 Amps until the ON/OFF cycle begins. The digital meter can't track the pulse Amps, but it gets a shot of Voltage on each closing of the relay to keep the GP's glowing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfTUka27UVo
Edit on 01/02/14
These two tests are only to show how much current 8 glow plugs draw during a GP cycle. The Voltage test is to show the voltage drop in a fully charged battery during the cycle.
After 6 Hrs, finding out how to do this. Making Video's and U-tube account and finding out to upload to U-tube, then finding the videos on there.
Testing was done with the Temp at 41*F, all GP's were connected with same size wire as a harness, the controller is new, the current/voltage supply wires are #2 AWG to handle the current for the current shunt readings. Power supply is done with a Series 65 battery. Glow plugs are new ZD9 Motorcraft/Beru.
Next (3rd) testing will continue with double (Parallel) #10 Ga. fuseible links as close as I can get to the OEM circuit.
4th testing will be done with 1 - 2 - and 3 glow plugs removed,as if they were bad.
Please: NO; My system is like this, start another Thread if you want to explain yours or compare it to this. Comments are Welcome.
The 1st video shows how quick the voltage drops as soon as you turn the key on. Voltage drops from 12.6 to 8.0 instantly and remains there all thru the GP cycle for 10 seconds, I turned it on at 3 seconds. voltage rise at GP cycle end indicates battery recovery voltage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ez2R7kfC5vA
The second Video shows current draw. After the switch is turned ON, you can see it takes about a second for the current to be recorded, I think that is because the Z strip (Chromolox) controls the rush in current. Instant current is 192 Amps then goes down to about 126 Amps until the ON/OFF cycle begins. The digital meter can't track the pulse Amps, but it gets a shot of Voltage on each closing of the relay to keep the GP's glowing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfTUka27UVo
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