1991 IDI n/a.
Need to try to get rotor off, and off the hub. What am I forgetting to do to remove hub?
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what's next? what am I forgetting?!
- Thread starter Danielle
- Start date
1991 IDI n/a.
Need to try to get rotor off, and off the hub. What am I forgetting to do to remove hub?
only three allens were still present, and only one screw was present on the first ring and it was stripped! >:C
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
OK, around that aluminum splined part with the 6 threaded holes there is a snap ring, you need to remove that first. You can see the ends of it as a small black gap immediately above the right horizontal threaded hole in your 2nd pic. I use a pair of "dental" pics to remove those basterds, or one pick and one small flat screwdriver - pry the end of the snap ring in towards the aluminum piece with one straight pick or the screwdriver, then use the other pick (preferably curved) to pull it up towards you. Careful cause it will try to spring back in its groove, it's very annoying. Keep your finger tips and/or fingernails away from it! Once the end is out and towards you, hold it there with the curved pick, and slide the straight pick or the screwdriver behind it and "walk" it around the entire circle and the ring will pop right off.
Then you use two of those long hub bolts, thread them in the aluminum piece to use as handles an pull it straight out.
After that are the spindle nuts - you'll need a special 4-prong socket for them, I'll get you the part # in a few. Regular right-hand thread, nothing left handed like in the rear. Remove the outer spindle nut first, be prepared to hang on a breaker bar for that, or you can use an impact wrench on a low power setting. Then use your curved dental pick to pull the washer behind it, it's a funky looking thing that has gazillion holes around its face and one tab that indexes in a slot in the spindle. It is there to lock the inner spindle nut from spinning, with the outer nut removed it pulls right out towards you. Then you use the spindle nut 4-prong socket again to remove the inner nut as well, it's identical to the outer nut except that it has a small pin that drops into one of the holes on the indexing washer. Pretty self-explanatory once you actually see it.
With all the spindle nuts removed, the hub and rotor will pull straight out towards you.
If you're replacing the rotor you'll need a 9/16" 12-point deep socket, and an impact wrench. If you don't have a set of 12-point impacts, be prepared to sacrifice a regular socket for the cause.
Then you use two of those long hub bolts, thread them in the aluminum piece to use as handles an pull it straight out.
After that are the spindle nuts - you'll need a special 4-prong socket for them, I'll get you the part # in a few. Regular right-hand thread, nothing left handed like in the rear. Remove the outer spindle nut first, be prepared to hang on a breaker bar for that, or you can use an impact wrench on a low power setting. Then use your curved dental pick to pull the washer behind it, it's a funky looking thing that has gazillion holes around its face and one tab that indexes in a slot in the spindle. It is there to lock the inner spindle nut from spinning, with the outer nut removed it pulls right out towards you. Then you use the spindle nut 4-prong socket again to remove the inner nut as well, it's identical to the outer nut except that it has a small pin that drops into one of the holes on the indexing washer. Pretty self-explanatory once you actually see it.
With all the spindle nuts removed, the hub and rotor will pull straight out towards you.
If you're replacing the rotor you'll need a 9/16" 12-point deep socket, and an impact wrench. If you don't have a set of 12-point impacts, be prepared to sacrifice a regular socket for the cause.
x2 on the snap ring. I spent two hours on the phone trying to figure it out the first time I had mine off.
thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!! <3
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
The 4-prong spindle nut socket is "OEM 25966", think AutoZone and Advance will have them in stock. It say on the label on the side of the socket it's for D50s and some D44s, but it works on D60s as well. And while you're pulling the rotor, may wanna replace the grease seal too, it's like right there staring you in the face.
Also, 3 bolts for the locking hub is fine, later OBS trucks have 3 bolts from the factory. Still 6 is better, you may be able to find something suitable in a hardware store. And yes there is only one screw retaining the inner coupling ring to that aluminum hub piece with the 6 threaded holes, if it's stripped just use a self-tapper and add a bit of blue loctite to its threads.
Also, 3 bolts for the locking hub is fine, later OBS trucks have 3 bolts from the factory. Still 6 is better, you may be able to find something suitable in a hardware store. And yes there is only one screw retaining the inner coupling ring to that aluminum hub piece with the 6 threaded holes, if it's stripped just use a self-tapper and add a bit of blue loctite to its threads.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Who was that question directed to? And what's HHU anyways?
79jasper
Chickenhawk
This is good. Actually great, because I'm about to have to change my rotors.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Yeah once you figure it out it's pretty smooth sailing, and that design is used on the D50 axles as well. Now if it was an auto-hub, them things I know nothing about, for the time being at least.
Oh, and a word of caution, when putting it back together watch out for the spindle nuts - the one with the pin goes in first, and said pin should be facing out towards you ready to accept the funky lock-washer thing.
Oh, and a word of caution, when putting it back together watch out for the spindle nuts - the one with the pin goes in first, and said pin should be facing out towards you ready to accept the funky lock-washer thing.
HHU doesn't ring a bell.
The 4 prongers came out with a tap, but would like to torque them when going back in. Thanks for the part number! Also realizing how much NOT FUN those 20 bolts holding the rotor on are going to be to take off. Going to call around see if dealer has them and beg customer to do them!
The 4 prongers came out with a tap, but would like to torque them when going back in. Thanks for the part number!
Also realizing how much NOT FUN those 20 bolts holding the rotor on are going to be to take off. Going to call around see if dealer has them and beg customer to do them!LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Heat the hub ears where the bolts are threaded in, but not till they start glowing. I held the oxy-ac torch with a rosebud head on each hub ear for oh maybe a minute and it worked miracles for removing these bolts. I'll get back to you on the spindle nut torque later, IIRC it was something like 55 lbs-ft for the inner to preload the bearings, but I'll have to double-check.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
OK, according to the D60 bible materials on Pirate, the inner spindle nut (the one that preloads the bearings) should be brought up to 50 lb-ft then backed off 1/4 turn. After installing the funky locking washer, the outer nut is torqued to 50-70 lb-ft. That nut does NOT get backed off 1/4 turn like he inner one, just torque it up and leave it there.
How do the U-joints look on that thing? I mean the big ones inside the knuckles, are they any good? Now would be a good time to replace them, if they're so-so and the customer is reluctant to go for it explain to them that when the U-joints do let go to get to them the whole mess you're working on now will have to be disassembled again (sans splitting the rotors from the wheel hubs). And that they will pay for said disassembly once again. Cause, you know, that counts for at least 1/4 of the time the labor guide gives for the job.
How do the U-joints look on that thing? I mean the big ones inside the knuckles, are they any good? Now would be a good time to replace them, if they're so-so and the customer is reluctant to go for it explain to them that when the U-joints do let go to get to them the whole mess you're working on now will have to be disassembled again (sans splitting the rotors from the wheel hubs). And that they will pay for said disassembly once again. Cause, you know, that counts for at least 1/4 of the time the labor guide gives for the job.
Good idea on the Ujoints!
Inner 4 prong nut out, outer bearing, just have to wrestle her out and order joint and seals
Inner 4 prong nut out, outer bearing, just have to wrestle her out and order joint and seals
