Quick Deck...101 Tech

Ok pulled the deck yesterday, started the basic subframe of deck today...on a break now so here is whats up so far

I measured on the frame about 22" back from the back of cab as that is about the distance the SC will be and where it will be located.

Just before the spring hanger on the PASSENGERS side. This is where it will end or there bouts...



Here is a cross member and I'll likely be grinding out the centre rivet to provide a bolt hole to which I can bolt the deck subframe to this is JUST rear of where the SC would end and leave enough room to add in a nice headache rack/roll over hoop! This same rivet I point to can be seen in the above image as well.


I made this little tool to scribe the frame shape over onto the wood beams used for subframe of deck




Scribed along the wood to make a mark to follow with sawzall


Sawed into the wood making relief cuts for the saw to cut nicely along the wood



So that's where I stopped, I've scribed both sides, started cutting the contour on one side and needed a rest. I'll get these two rails done today...then I can work on fastening them down where needed. Leaving a spot that will work to CUT when I go and get the SC ready to install...

Thanks for looking

Al

Just got done the cut/shape of the Passengers side rail..still have to clearance rivets and then get mount holes bored.









Looks like it's going to be an ok fit IMHO...


Fitment from the other side....still looks ok wouldn't you say?


So having fun, if that's what you call it, one side is done and I'm beat now...next side will start tomorrow and I can get it done. Then it's time to manage/fab cross bars that the deck fits onto.

For me, I will bolt this frame part down and the cross members too...I'm not sure how..but well..I'll wing it!

Nuff for now...thanks for reading...

Al

Looks fine to me... Why are you using the wood instead of welding a platform along the frame rail... Then bolting the bed to that... I like what your doing but it seems like plenty of extra work to achieve the same thing... A level bed for the flat bead to mount to.. Nice cuts too...

icanfixall said:

Looks fine to me... Why are you using the wood instead of welding a platform along the frame rail... Then bolting the bed to that... I like what your doing but it seems like plenty of extra work to achieve the same thing... A level bed for the flat bead to mount to.. Nice cuts too...

Click to expand...

Wood cause I will have to cut the deck SHORTER when I add the SC and it's a disposable deck...

I plan to eventually cut open/off the back/rear glass portion of the SC and graft/add a Bronco rear half onto that thus having a Super Cab Bronco ....not a 4door bronco like a centurion. A very one off custom rig...none the less...

Wood is cheap...quick and well disposable as I said...I'll have oh..75 bucks into the wood if that so far..I'll likely just bolt 4 corners down...and then that should be enough to hold the deck IMHO

My one concern is, depending on how long your going to leave it on there, the wood is going to act like a wet sponge.... just sitting there growing rust on your frame.

Just make sure you use something to protect the metal. Other than that, looking good!

Wyreth said:

My one concern is, depending on how long your going to leave it on there, the wood is going to act like a wet sponge.... just sitting there growing rust on your frame.

Just make sure you use something to protect the metal. Other than that, looking good!

Click to expand...

I have a SAR buddy whom has some commercial belting material for conveyor belts. That was going to be my cushion between wood and frame rail beams, but good advice for sure!

So I roughed out the drivers side frame rail...again beat...no can work for long period time....

See here this is what its like roughed into position...I'll add a front x member later...this was just to see how high/good it would look. I"m not 100% on that center x member but it's what I have to work with for now...maybe I'll go get one more 4x4 and I can move it forward and add one more behind it...

Nothing is bolted down..the cross member 4x4's are too long and stick out and such this is just for me to get perspective on the project
Side profile....with 1 2x6 deck board on for something to get an idea bout...rofl


Kinda 3/4 view...


Rear shot showing the width I plan...only cab wide...


Deck will be flush with rear of frame! I'm cutting this stub off


So that's enough for today...I am just wanting those frame rail portions close to finished so I can calculate needed bolt/hardware to mount it all.

Thanks again

Al

I'll have to agree with Wyreth. Even with conveyer belt material between the wood and the frame, I'd worry about rust and such. I'd prefer to see some air space in there, just to let everything breath. You can get away with it more if you're considering this bed a temporary thing.

BTW, I like that crapper out by the work area. Handy, eh? Good thing you have a fence between that and the road.

Gary isn't the only person who looks at the background in pictures.

gandalf;703301BTW said:

42582[/ATTACH]

Gary isn't the only person who looks at the background in pictures.

Click to expand...

Um...dont be stealing my thunder....that's there cause I need it for an invention that's going to make me MILLIONS...it does not exist...I've googled it and searched for it and no where can I find it and yet it's needed..trust me I hear complaints frequently and I had same complaint too.....imagine that...

I kind of like the wood on there. it'll need to be tied together in a few more places like some ubolts around the existing frame rails in regular intervals, but it will be strong. so long as you treat the wood first. Heck, I remember seeing old log trucks that had wood frames ( and some that started with steel frames that were replaced with wood ) up in the pacific northwest years ago . You would be surprised how strong some hardwood rails can be.

RLDSL said:

I kind of like the wood on there. it'll need to be tied together in a few more places like some ubolts around the existing frame rails in regular intervals, but it will be strong. so long as you treat the wood first. Heck, I remember seeing old log trucks that had wood frames ( and some that started with steel frames that were replaced with wood ) up in the pacific northwest years ago . You would be surprised how strong some hardwood rails can be.

Click to expand...

Thanks...There will be four main tie points, the forward two and rear two points holding the deck to the frame, I'm going to run ready rod through the forward and rearward crossmembers through the wood frame rails and through the frame bolting it all down together. Then any cross members left will be only bolted to the frame rail wood it self.

This should allow some twist/flex when wheeling and be sufficient to retain deck to frame. The actual 2x6's will be double lag bolted hopefully on each cross member with at least 4" lags...with washers and counter sunk just below deck grade! Galvanized hardware throughout!

Today...back onto the skirting of house...

Al

Got some READY ROD and washers and nuts ...along with some lag bolts for decking and screws...I'm set n starting today!

Forget the rubber belting under wood...who needs it...rofl....

Got the frame caps all settled as I want, and drilled for the four pieces of ready rod all thread to hold them along with two cross members down tight!

Here are frame caps and two cross members...these are the points that will be bolted to frame through each cross member/frame cap to frame






Here I've been trying to figure out how/where to place a couple of other cross members...I've got a 2x6 centered over wheel for perspective and the two chunks of 4x4 for visual aids to see how this looks. Span between the two center cross members is 24"


This last shot I used the 2x6 as deck material for visual and ya...this looks good to me, I need to go get couple more 4x4's and I'm set!


So there will be a cross member up front right behind the cab but it is only getting placed there and the deck screwed to it, I'm not going to bolt the cross member to the frame caps as I have to cut that forward section off when I add the super cab...It is all planned into the build!

I may use a couple of 2x6's for the two cross members above the rear axle...just cause I have that wood, and don't have to go get another 4x4....

Thanks for looking

Al

Oh ya...5/8" ready rod is the material of choice for me for bolting deck to frame!

Wow...break time, got the subframe setup ready to get bolted down once and for all.

Clearance for washer/nut combo for all thread/ready rod, as well as notched the frame rails and two cross members so they set/nestle together well. This will ensure a good solid foundation IMHO.

I'll notch the other cross members and bolt them down to the frame cap rails only...I won't be notching the frame caps for the other cross members. Once I have this completed I can begin to install deck boards as I see fit, LAG bolts/washers on the rear most cross member and same for the forward one which is setup as the FORWARD member once the SC gets installed.

Then just 3 1/2" deck screws to hold the boards to cross members...two per board per cross member! I'll ping some chalk lines so all is set fancy schmancy like lol

3/4" holes bored for 5/8 ready rod...then need clearance for big washers and to have nuts below cross member surface....solution...drill a bunch of 5/8 holes with spade bit...chisel out remaining bits and this is what I get!


Ya...looking like it's meant to be this way


Sits nicely in there....don't you agree?



Here I set a skill saw up around 1/2" depth cut...then repeatedly cut across and then chiseled the section flat to make the notch, NOW YOU HAVE TO REALIZE HOW MUCH I HATE WORKING WITH WOOD...AND SUCK AT IT.


again notched...these meet up and mate nicely together and my bolt holes lined up perfectly...I was amazed actually that I managed to get holes lined up!


Nicely nestling together here, I think this just may work by golly









Anyway, going to do lunch then get the ready rod cut/ and bolt this puppy together once and for all and then it's an easy build from here on.

Wow

Thanks for looking

Al

Keep running out of steam....gotta take breaks....and playin with the dog didn't make things any faster....so I've got it to the point that tomorrow I set deck boards bolt them down, deal with fuel fillers and then tail lights....all quite straight forward

Had to cut the ready rod, 9 inches long then grind the ends smooth to be able to install nuts. I then went into the shop, and took my cheapo mig and mig welded the nuts on one end that will go in from the top of the wood. This allows me to tighten/adjust the setup as needed...wood drying etc. It turned out well and I'm kicking my @$$ for not taking pics...DOH..was tired!

So the subframe got bolted to frame then I notched the other cross members....

This is just the last few cross members resting in place not bolted to the frame cap






I then had to drill the two middle and the front cross member for lag bolts and bolt them down which I did but ran out of light...SAD....

Oh well Tomorrow or later when wifey goes to BiNgO...


Al

Ok so this is not a quick deck....at all...it would be if I was healthy....and capable...but I"m just sorta capable...today it's basically DONE!

Had to deal with fuel tank filler....



roughed out...you can see I'm just playing here....


little better....


Sits nice here!




Here I even set up the fuel tank vent...I'll be doing the vent mod eventually...sooner than later ....


Half deck installed...the above work came in at this point not before but I felt it was worth putting first!


As I began with the center board, I used a nail against it then pressed the next board up and screwed it down pull nail place next to board for next deck board ....so this is what I mean
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/editpost.php?p=704089&do=editpost


Here is deck done!...SORTA...I still have to do clearncing for rear tank, add lights and some minor details but this is what I'll be dealing with....










Thats it for now, looks ok. I can totally cut of front 22-24' for Super cab clearnce without any issue. It's just slightly wider than my truck cab....ok for now...and ya over all I"m pleased

Thanks for looking

Al