IP Adjustment for timing purposes.

I have seen this subject off and on on here lots and lots and lots.

Lots of comments lots of info and suggestions on what to do, how to do it. No real proof positive!

I went out to the shop, grabbed an IP stuck it on a garbage can and shot these images for reference for all to see.

My goal is to keep this simple.

Icanfixall's (Gary's) suggestion of using a centre punch to mark the IP and the housing is a good idea. Thank you Gary for that useful info.

The following pictutorial is for information purposes only

DOING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURES ARE DONE AT YOUR VERY OWN RISK! If you are not completely confident in your ability to work on or around engines, seek professional assistance.

ONE THING I SHOULD POINT OUT;

NEVER EVER EVER ATTEMPT TO TIME THE ENGINE WHILE IT IS RUNNING, JUST DO NOT DO THIS. ONLY TURN THE PUMP WHEN THE ENGINE IS COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN.

Thanks to Gary for this tidbit...

The reason to NOT adjust the pump timing when the engine is running its because the pump is making so much twisting torque pushing the fuel out to the injectors. Remember we are making 1800 lbs of pressure to pop open the injectors. These pumps can make just over 5000 lbs of pressure too.

First an Injection pump
LH side


Business end...


RH side


3/4 view above....on garbage can lol


NO Centre punch mark by me...clearly a few other marks made...could be confusing no?


Here I have made a centre punch mark and I'm pointing at it, it's not perfect with both halves of the complete circle on the IP cover and the IP it's self though it's there and we can work with it!


Here we have a full width Candian dime....


Now here we have a Canadian dime showing it's full THICKNESS!!!!!


When using the centre punch mark to mark your IP prior to timing or retiming your engine you want to ONLY move it about 1/2 the THICKNESS of a dime...NOT 1/2 width of dime...1/2 the THICKNESS is the correct amount...lol...to advance or retard the timing.

Now thank's to Gary for this...To advance the injection pump you turn the pump towards the passenger side fender. Thats twisting the pump counter clockwise when your standing in front of the truck at the radiater... Gary

In this image we have ADVANCED timing compared to the centre punch mark! MORE THAN A DIME THICKNESS..FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY...


In this image we have RETARDED timing....ABOUT a dime's thickness...NOT WIDTH...slightly more than whats called for a 1/2 dimes thickness...THIS IS FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY



Here you can see the large boss which fits a 3/4" or 19mm open end wrench perfectly that can be used to move your IP either Advancing or Retarding the timing. Thanks to OB member dgr for this great tip!


ONE THING I SHOULD POINT OUT AGAIN;

NEVER EVER EVER ATTEMPT TO TIME THE ENGINE WHILE IT IS RUNNING, JUST DO NOT DO THIS. ONLY TURN THE PUMP WHEN THE ENGINE IS COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN.

I do hope this helps people out that want to learn and know more about the simplistic method of timing these engines and for a good video by our timing master Icanfixall (Gary) here at OilBurners, here is a link to his Youtube video on using a Kent Moore Tach n Time for timing these trucks. Thanks Gary!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=7cI3KD1tu34

Thanks for looking

Al

Thanks Al. Where can I get a Canadian dime?

Only thing I would add is you can put a 3/4" wrench (19mm) on that square boss, above and behind the top mounting nut, to rotate the injection pump the direction you need to go. If you have a 6.9, you may need to remove the return line out of the way to get a wrench in there. Of course, replace the line before starting the engine as it will pour copious amounts of fuel out of there. DAMHIKT.

well that red text didn't last long.

dgr said:

Thanks Al. Where can I get a Canadian dime?

Only thing I would add is you can put a 3/4" wrench (19mm) on that square boss, above and behind the top mounting nut, to rotate the injection pump the direction you need to go. If you have a 6.9, you may need to remove the return line out of the way to get a wrench in there. Of course, replace the line before starting the engine as it will pour copious amounts of fuel out of there. DAMHIKT.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll get another photo of wrench on said boss...edit thread accordingly...good tip!

Thanks again


As for the Canadian dime.... its all I had...no American dimes here today and I used what I had

I emphasized the Canadian dime as I don't know how thick a US dime is in comparison...that's all...

If you need one send me a SASE and I'll mail one back to ya...though you best be mailing me a US dime and a penny in exchange

'94IDITurbo7.3 said:

well that red text didn't last long.

Click to expand...

NOPE...it didn't...but thanks for reading it.

Thank you for the great pics and information riot

How do you know you need to adjust the timing. How about fuel screw? Nice write up!

trucknorris said:

How do you know you need to adjust the timing. How about fuel screw? Nice write up!

Click to expand...

Timing is something that one does say every so often I'm not actually sure how often it should be done. It should be done if you change the IP or your injectors of both.

Plenty of threads on fuel screws, I won't muddy this thread/tech 101 with anything except IP and timing.

Thanks for the compliment.

I think if we can get Al to change that hold down nut and washer to the proper ones this should become a tech article

If you have a Ferret, timing light and a wedge of wood, it seriously takes less than five minutes to check your timing

dgr said:

I think if we can get Al to change that hold down nut and washer to the proper ones this should become a tech article

If you have a Ferret, timing light and a wedge of wood, it seriously takes less than five minutes to check your timing

Click to expand...

That was the goal...a tech article/pictutorial...and the nut is the nut; that's gonna stay the nut, others may have similar nuts, I cannot say...but my nuts are staying where they are!

I will CUT a link to Gary's timing video once I'm complete and happy with the way it is...

I have a decent one on fuel screw at home with pics. Will post it up tonight.

Nice work Al! Great photos, clear instructions and easy to understand.

So why don't you turn it while the engine is running? Just curious because I see everyone saying that, but no one ever says why.

Ziggyman said:

So why don't you turn it while the engine is running? Just curious because I see everyone saying that, but no one ever says why.

Click to expand...

If your asking why we don't adjust the pump timing when the engine is running its because the pump is making so much twisting torque pushing the fuel out to the injecters. Remember we are making 1800 lbs of pressure to pop open the injecters. These pumps can make just over 5000 lbs of pressure too.

icanfixall said:

If your asking why we don't adjust the pump timing when the engine is running its because the pump is making so much twisting torque pushing the fuel out to the injecters. Remember we are making 1800 lbs of pressure to pop open the injecters. These pumps can make just over 5000 lbs of pressure too.

Click to expand...

Ok, that makes sense, you dont want to try and fight what you are adjusting.

riotwarrior said:

Here you can see the large boss which fits a 3/4" or 19mm open end wrench perfectly that can be used to move your IP either Advancing or Retarding the timing. Thanks to OB member dgr for this great tip!

You must be registered for see images attach

Al

Click to expand...

Another thing that I picked up off a youtube video is not only the 3/4" wrench but a turn buckle attached between the wrench and filter bracket will adjust the pump under control and very smoothly with a few turns, works for advancing it atleast. This also works with the throttle, a small turn buckle will hold it and a couple of turns will get you to the correct RPM.