Fluid change volumes/ recommendations please

pybyr · Jun 29, 2010

My truck is soon to turn 20,000 miles (yes, original- it was garaged in a firehouse for most of its life until 11/09)

I am planning to change out ALL of the fluids in the next few months

My nearby parts place has a 20% off deal on anything bought before 7/1 so this is definitely the time to stock up on the fluids I'll be needing

I'm not having an easy time finding and confirming (even from the owners guide and shop manual) just what the capacities are:

It's a 1989 F350 7.3 auto E4OD 4x4

Here's what I need to know:

Oil capacity (with the large 1995 powerstroke oil filter)?

Cooling system capacity?

E4OD ATF capacity for a total drain-out (drop the pan) (and drain torque converter if I hopefully find that it has a drain plug) and re-fill?

Which is most recommended ATF, both standard and synthetic?

Total brake fluid capacity to completely drain all fluid and push it through with gentle air pressure, then re-fill & bleed

Should I use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, and why?

Volume of the transfer case—and which type of lube to use in it?

Volume of Sterling 10.25 rear axle and best type of lube to use in it?

Volume of Dana 60 (kingpin) and best type of lube to use in it.

Have people really found, when using _real_ numbers and careful comparison, that using synthetics in the driveline increases MPG?

Thanks, as always, for all the help!

Trevor

burtcheca · Jun 30, 2010

My '86 F-350 takes 10 quarts of oil plus a can of Restore. I buy 3 gallons and keep the last one with those 2 quarts for refills when needed.
I put 3 gallons of regular NAPA antifreeze and add water to fill it up.
Tranny is a T-19.
Power steering takes a bottle and a half.
Brakes took one big bottle of DOT3 last time I worked on them.

Hope these amounts give you an idea.

Burt.

gatorman21218 · Jun 30, 2010

burtcheca said:
I put 3 gallons of regular NAPA antifreeze and add water to fill it up.

Burt.

Off topic but do you about SCAs and Cavitation

Youll need 12 qts of oil

Cooling is 28-30 qts

The manual says the e4od holds 16.2 qts (4x4 trucks), including lines and coolers (Mercon although all they have now is universal dex/merc. DONT use mercon V or Dextron VI or HONDA ATF LOL

)

In diffs I use 85w90 hypoid semi synth (make sure if you have a Limited slip you use the additive)

A Dana 60 Monobeam holds 5.8 pints
A sterling 10 1/4 holds 6.5 pints (plus 8 ozs of modifier for a limited slip)

Dot 3 for the brakes (and clutch :backoff

) thats what ive been told (and what it calls for i beleive and have looked and cant give you a number. 2 qts will do her I would think

Power steering fluid is Type F ATF and 2 qts is enough (for non hydroboost trucks)

You might want to change tho oil in the Vaccum pump (SAE 30 quantity unknown) ill find you the thread at your request

Windshield fluid is the blue stuff they sell at the quickmart.

A couple of tubes of grease would be nice (although it dont take much to do the zirks)

Oh and see if they have any halogen fluid on sale. I think its 4 pints for each headlight :rotflmao

Hope this helps ;Sweet

(with 3 hours to spare before 7/1

)

rjjp · Jun 30, 2010

Transfer case takes the same ATF as the tranny, I think that it's 2 or 3 quarts though.
Good find on a 89 with that low miles.

RLDSL · Jun 30, 2010

Anything that new should be on all synthetics. Period! You would be crazy not to. If you switch it now you will keep it in it's present condition. If you switch all the lubes it will make a noticeable difference.
As far as coolant, you won't find it at the parts store, but Evans waterless coolant would be a good investment. No SCAs needed , a 375 deg boiling point, you can run unpressurized so less strain on your componants, less chance of major failure leading to damage and no water so no rust, doesnt need changing. costs a bundle, but balances out over a few years.

CDX825 · Jun 30, 2010

Oil capacity is 11 quarts with the powerstroke filter.

Diesel JD · Jul 1, 2010

So what did you do Pybar? I tend to agree with RL about the synthetics, especially in the engine and tranny. May as well do the differentials as well since they are small volume=small cost.
@Burtheca...I wouldn't worry too much about SCAs in a 6.9, when you said that I though the same thing as Jim....if it were a 7.3 that would be critical. At the same time...why not...it's not expensive and you won't have to think about it often. I'd use NapaKool which you can get right along with that coolant and if you know for sure it's your coolant, Napa green stuff, and hasn't had the Ford/IH DCA4/VC8/FW16 or whatever they're calling it these days..... in it you can just add it and test here and there, also the same NapaKool compatible stuff is available from any Caterpillar dealer(probably for slightly more $$) what I speak of is the nitrite only SCA. Works fine especially in a 6.9L. If I had a 7.3 I'd probably be certain to go with something that controlled cavitation really well. What I do have is some newer style CAT elc but that really goes against the idea of what you're building your rigs for...the best self sufficiency you can have. That stuff may only be available at truck stops and so forth and may cause your older seals..water pump for instance to leak.

johnboggs21 · Jul 1, 2010

pybyr said:
My truck is soon to turn 20,000 miles (yes, original- it was garaged in a firehouse for most of its life until 11/09)

I am planning to change out ALL of the fluids in the next few months

My nearby parts place has a 20% off deal on anything bought before 7/1 so this is definitely the time to stock up on the fluids I'll be needing

I'm not having an easy time finding and confirming (even from the owners guide and shop manual) just what the capacities are:

It's a 1989 F350 7.3 auto E4OD 4x4

Here's what I need to know:

Oil capacity (with the large 1995 powerstroke oil filter)?

Cooling system capacity?

E4OD ATF capacity for a total drain-out (drop the pan) (and drain torque converter if I hopefully find that it has a drain plug) and re-fill?

Which is most recommended ATF, both standard and synthetic?

Total brake fluid capacity to completely drain all fluid and push it through with gentle air pressure, then re-fill & bleed

Should I use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, and why?

Volume of the transfer case—and which type of lube to use in it?

Volume of Sterling 10.25 rear axle and best type of lube to use in it?

Volume of Dana 60 (kingpin) and best type of lube to use in it.

Have people really found, when using _real_ numbers and careful comparison, that using synthetics in the driveline increases MPG?

Thanks, as always, for all the help!

Trevor

not all of these will apply to you, these are for my truck

1993 Ford F-250HD 7.3L

Engine, with filter..........9.9 quarts
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........29.1 quarts
Automatic Transmission, C6-Shallow Pan ReFill..........5 quarts
Automatic Transmission, AOT ReFill..........3 quarts
Automatic Transmission, C6-Deep Pan ReFill..........6 quarts
Automatic Transmission, E4OD ReFill..........6.5 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
4 speed E4OD..........15.7 quarts
4 speed AOT..........12.3 quarts
3 speed C6-Deep..........13.6 quarts
Manual Transmission, 4-SPD BW T18-19..........7 pints
Manual Transmission, 5-SPD Mazda..........7.7 pints
Manual Transmission, 5-SPD ZF..........6.8 pints
Differential, Dana 44 Front..........3.6 pints
Differential, Dana 50 Front..........3.9 pints
Differential, Dana 60 Front..........6 pints
Differential, Dana 60-IU Rear..........6.4 pints
Differential, Dana 70 EX HD Rear..........6.6 pints
Differential, Dana 70 HD Rear..........7.4 pints
Differential, Dana 80 Rear..........8.5 pints
Differential, Ford 10.25 RingGear Rear..........7.4 pints
Differential, With 8.8 or 9 RingGear Rear..........5.5 pints
Transfer Case, Warner 1345..........6.4 pints
Transfer Case, Warner 1356..........4.1 pints

gatorman21218 · Jul 1, 2010

The way I do the oil change is

Drain
Fill new filter with oil and spin on
replace plug
wipe off hot oil from face and arms
add 10qts to engine
run engine until oil pressure builds
check dipstick and add oil til it reaches top of line on dipstick

The way I see it if you just blindly add oil based on a number you may add too much or not enough. There will always be some residual oil left in there, and I never seem to have 11 qts of oil left over anyway. This way its pretty much failsafe (although those 4 seconds of no oil pressure seem like an eternity)

bird hunter · Jul 1, 2010

My manual lists 3.4 quarts for the ZF, and 7.5 pints for the Sterling 10.25. Funny they do it this way, because 3.4 quarts is the same as 7.5 pints. :dunno

I'm hoping that synthetics in the driveline improves mpg, as I'm filling my Sterling with Mobil 1 synthetic 75W90 gear oil this weekend.

seawalkersee · Oct 23, 2010

Huh...I was at 3 gal today and it was bairly registering on the dipstick. Of course, my dipstick sucks and fights me every step of the way. I am going to try to make one tomorrow.

SWS

flareside_thun · Oct 23, 2010

Yes, the E4OD DOES have a torque converter drain plug.

OLDBULL8 · Oct 24, 2010

Go there to drain and flush the tranny.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=29296

For antifreeze if you don't want EVAN's, IH dealers have the Fleetgard with the SCA in it. Get four gallons Fleetgard (NOT 50/50) and four gallons of steamed distilled water at a grocery, about $80. Be sure and drain the block, plug on each side of the engine, pass side behind the starter, drivers side at the rear of block. Blow out the cab heater, good to flush the system with clear water and drain all again.

trackspeeder · Oct 24, 2010

gatorman21218 said:
Off topic but do you about SCAs and Cavitation

Youll need 12 qts of oil

Cooling is 28-30 qts

The manual says the e4od holds 16.2 qts (4x4 trucks), including lines and coolers (Mercon although all they have now is universal dex/merc. DONT use mercon V or Dextron VI or HONDA ATF )

In diffs I use 85w90 hypoid semi synth (make sure if you have a Limited slip you use the additive)

A Dana 60 Monobeam holds 5.8 pints
A sterling 10 1/4 holds 6.5 pints (plus 8 ozs of modifier for a limited slip)

Dot 3 for the brakes (and clutch) thats what ive been told (and what it calls for i beleive and have looked and cant give you a number. 2 qts will do her I would think

Power steering fluid is Type F ATF and 2 qts is enough (for non hydroboost trucks)

You might want to change tho oil in the Vaccum pump (SAE 30 quantity unknown) ill find you the thread at your request

Windshield fluid is the blue stuff they sell at the quickmart.

A couple of tubes of grease would be nice (although it dont take much to do the zirks)

Oh and see if they have any halogen fluid on sale. I think its 4 pints for each headlight

Hope this helps (with 3 hours to spare before 7/1)

Mercon V is safe to use in all E4OD transmissions. The stuff not to use is any SP rated fluid.

Kevin 007 · Mar 20, 2011

So is that the way to go then? once pan is back on and TC is drained, put about 10 quarts in...fire it up...and top up from there?

Im going to put in a bottle or two of Lubegard Highly Friction Modified trans supplement.

Fluid change volumes/ recommendations please

pybyr

Full Access Member

burtcheca

farmer/cabinetmaker

gatorman21218

Registered User

rjjp

Needs to go test

RLDSL

Diesel fuel abuser

CDX825

filtration nut

Diesel JD

Full Access Member

johnboggs21

Full Access Member

gatorman21218

Registered User

bird hunter

Full Access Member

seawalkersee

It needs a turbo...

flareside_thun

Reviving The General Tao

OLDBULL8

Good Morning Ya'll.

trackspeeder

Stone crusher.

Kevin 007

Full-floater

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