Stupid question about axle pivot brackets

Biggz

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Okay So I added a 2" leveling spring to the front of my 1993 F250. Now if I add axle pivot brackets to the front will it actually lift it, or just correct the ball joint angles?????????? I am wanting like a total of 4" in the front to help it level out with the 2" lifted rear when I have the plow on it. Any help would be appreciated.:dunno
 

smokin69

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If he lifted it with springs the tires would point out from the body like a V not like ^, When I lifted my F150 I put the springs in before I put the drop brackets on and the tires where literally on the very corners. With a TTB front end it is very necessary to keep the beams level to get camber where it needs to be. It doesn't help that the tire changes camber, caster, and toe as it moves through the arc. You can't really align the front end because as soon as you get it close and somebody just bumps the truck up and down it throws it out again. I've come to just make it run down the road straight and call it good because unless your camber is way out then it's not really gonna make a difference with how much it changes just going down the road. TTB eats tires.
 

Hybrid455

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If he lifted it with springs the tires would point out from the body like a V not like ^, When I lifted my F150 I put the springs in before I put the drop brackets on and the tires where literally on the very corners. With a TTB front end it is very necessary to keep the beams level to get camber where it needs to be. It doesn't help that the tire changes camber, caster, and toe as it moves through the arc. You can't really align the front end because as soon as you get it close and somebody just bumps the truck up and down it throws it out again. I've come to just make it run down the road straight and call it good because unless your camber is way out then it's not really gonna make a difference with how much it changes just going down the road. TTB eats tires.

These trucks have a published TSB having to do with the axle pivot brackets becoming loose, oblonging the mounting holes in the crossmember leaving the frt end settled and an extreme amount of negative camber in the frt wheels. Being that he is running a very heavy plow adds to the concern. I have seen people try to fix this concern by adding more spring and all they end up doing is making it worse. That was my reasoning behind the question.
 

Agnem

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To answer the question directly - no, it will not lift the truck. It will actually lower it a tad, because right now the outer edge of your tires is what is hitting the ground. When you drop the pivots, the tires will level out, and like a girl standing on her toes to kiss you, she will drop down. You can try driving it without doing the pivot change, but you will need to keep an eye on your tire wear. The problem you will probably run into, is anything you do to drop the brackets will probably put you into negative camber and you'll have the inverse problem. This is why lift kits have matched components.
 

Biggz

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it does have a wee bit of positive camber now... So i guess i am gonna have to or the pivot brackets for a 2 inch lift
 

MUDKICKR

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depends on who you have align it. and what the total amount it is out. there are 2 1/2 degree camber bushing that could fix it for you. that has been a little trick i have done in the past. lift a f150 with 6" springs, 6" pivit brackets and then lower the spring buckets 2" for a total of 8" lift, then add some 2 1/2 degree camber bushings and it usually goes well. i have done it on 2 different trucks and have worked out very well, but that was on 1/2 ton trks.
 

MUDKICKR

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sorry for the double post but on my f350 with the dana50 ttb i put 2" add a leafs in it and then i modified my factory pivit brackets to lower them 2" and then took it to the alignment shop. they told me only the toe was out.
 

Hybrid455

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depends on who you have align it. and what the total amount it is out. there are 2 1/2 degree camber bushing that could fix it for you. that has been a little trick i have done in the past.

The problem with some of those extreme sleeves is that when you get all done the upper ball joint stems are pinched against the ball joint's body. This can cause excessive resistance in the spindle when turning and premature ball joint failure.
 

Biggz

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I work at a parts store full time and I have seen plenty of those MOOG 2.5 degree ball joints fail very prematurely. I have seen some of those fail as soon as 4 months before. I think I am just gonna buy the drop brackets and go from there.
 

MUDKICKR

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The problem with some of those extreme sleeves is that when you get all done the upper ball joint stems are pinched against the ball joint's body. This can cause excessive resistance in the spindle when turning and premature ball joint failure.

please tell me how this happens? i have installed several at the shop i work at and the hole in the sleeve is offset, not just cut at an angle. so it moves the knuckle as a whole over, not just bind the ball joint.
 

Hybrid455

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please tell me how this happens? i have installed several at the shop i work at and the hole in the sleeve is offset, not just cut at an angle. so it moves the knuckle as a whole over, not just bind the ball joint.

Some of the aftermarket manufactured sleeves are angled some are not. The angled ones are the ones to be concerned about. As I said in the post some of the sleeves cause this concern. I have too, on rare occasion, removed 2.5 degree sleeves and found that the thin side of the sleeve was broken out leaving the ball joint stem loose in the sleeve. Just something to watch for.;Really
 

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