Difference in early starters?

OilFilter

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I need a new starter for my 1984 6.9 F250. C6 if it matters. It currently has the old direct drive style, I want the gear reduction style. All of the ones I find list the application as being for 1985-1994 6.9/7.3 motors. They show an old direct drive starter for my year. Is there actually any difference? Does the later starter work on the early motors?
 

icanfixall

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Yes the newer gear reduction starters fit ANY idi engine. Just make sure you purchase a starter for the idi engine and not the power stroke engine. Mitsubishi makes the starter I use.
 

icanfixall

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Tooth count can be an issue. I suggest looking up DB electric on ebay. Lost of members use what they sell without issues.
 

OilFilter

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Tooth count can be an issue. I suggest looking up DB electric on ebay. Lost of members use what they sell without issues.

Yeah, that's why I ask. They list this one for 1985-1994
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130682573081

And this one for 1983-1984
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130682184399

The one listed for my motor is totally different. It only lists the direct drive type. It's cheaper but that's not really what I want. I can't find a single gear reduction starter that claims to be for 1983-84.

Also, the DB gear reduction starter is only 2.5KW vs the Mitsubishi GR 3.6KW. But that one isn't listed for my year either.
 

fsmyth

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Supposedly, the starter for a 5.9L Cummins will work.
Going to find out - mine just went out on my IDI.
I have both types on the floor (from other vehicles), and the flange and
gear look similar. Vastly different housings. We'll see.....
 

fordf350man

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typ4

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Does the tooth count not matter? It says 13 tooth as well. If that one works shouldn't they all? That one is $50 more than the ones on ebay.

Ok, again, the tooth count depends on the type of starter, direct drive motor spins faster so uses a smaller gear to have correct cranking speed, gear reductions are slower but have much more torque so use a bigger gear to have correct cranking speed.
It is 50 more because it is a Nipondenso style 4.0 kw.
I have used many of them with no issues, but every one I put on gets known good batteries and a damn good cable inspection or replacement, low voltage kills starters .
very fast.

And some have had mixed issues with DB but I have not, 20 plus units at work no issues that were the starters fault.
 

OilFilter

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Ok, again, the tooth count depends on the type of starter, direct drive motor spins faster so uses a smaller gear to have correct cranking speed, gear reductions are slower but have much more torque so use a bigger gear to have correct cranking speed.
It is 50 more because it is a Nipondenso style 4.0 kw.
I have used many of them with no issues, but every one I put on gets known good batteries and a damn good cable inspection or replacement, low voltage kills starters .
Thanks for the info. That's what I was starting to think, probably just different teeth for different gear ratios. I'm also building a new set of cables with 2/0 between the batteries and 3/0 to the starter. Two good group 31s on the desulphator right now while my truck waits for a starter.

My cables are pretty bad so it could have contributed to my starter's death. I've been working the starter really hard lately too, gotta clean up some cold start issues.
 

OilFilter

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That's really cool, though doesn't really surprise me. A lot of the Ford starters I have been looking at cross reference to a ton of different applications. Although that thread isn't terribly helpful without some good part numbers. :( I think Cummins uses a lot of different starters based on what application the engine is in. It's more part of the trans than the engine.

If the Cummins starter only has two bolt holes and it works OK, does that mean I could leave off the third bolt on the Ford starter that is so hard to get at? Put some lock tight on the other two bolts?
 
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