hacked89
Full Access Member
Looking good Brett
Currently the intake duct is just wedged under the cruise control servo and ends a few inches from the fender. It seems to draw in cool air there, but I feel like it’s louder in the cab at higher rpm’s there. My thoughts have bounce around on this one from a Hypertech cowl intake, to cutting a hole in the inner structure of the fender, to now thinking about trying to make a stock “snorkel” work around the intercooler piping.Where is your intake getting air?
Love the pictures and explanations, I hope the new pump and all wakes her up good and you're done chasing problems. Nice work!
Some thoughtsSo, my pump and injectors finally showed up. I was very excited to get the new parts installed. I got everything bled out and she fired up. I was immediately disappointed again. It felt better(maybe?, it had been a few weeks), but it still didn’t feel right. I set the timing. Again, maybe a slight improvement. I convinced myself that maybe it was all normal. Maybe with new motor and transmission mounts, I was just feeling everything more. Maybe my old clutch was just so worn out, that it wasn’t transmitting any of the vibration into the transmission. I decided to try a little shake down drive. I learned a few things. First my cheap Amazon intercooler piping will not hold any boost if you leave even just one of the clamps completely loose. Secondly the CDD 110 pump rolls some coal when you loose all boost. But lastly, things were still not right.
So back into the shop she went. I went through checking exhaust manifold temps, cylinder contribution, compression, and timing all over again. Nothing. At this point I was feeling pretty confident in my work putting the engine together, so I decided I need to check elsewhere. So last Saturday I dropped the transmission. I removed the pressure plate and clutch, and reattached the transmission so it could support the engine. It ran like a sewing machine compared to what it was. Out again with the transmission, and back on with the clutch. I ran it this time with the trans out, and the vibration was back. Looking through the floor with it running I could see the pressure plate wasn’t centered. Apparently when they redrilled my flywheel for the 13” clutch they got off center by about 1/16”. Looking closer at the pressure plate, I could see where the clutch shop had elongated some of the holes to get them to line up with what they drilled. I guess I had assumed that they had some way to accurately drill the bolt pattern in the flywheel, but apparently they just did it by hand. Anyway I decided to abandon the 13” clutch for now, and I ordered a standard Luk clutch kit from Rockauto.
It’s finally right. Well, mostly. I drove the truck to work on Thursday and it was great, until it wasn’t. About halfway home, it started surging, it was sucking air somewhere. By the time I was in my driveway it was struggling to idle, and actually died. It started back, and I got it pulled into the shop. I didn’t have much time to dig deep, but I guess I’ll be back working on it this weekend at some point.
It really comes down to me assuming that the clutch guys were capable of doing what I asked for, and then them not being up front with me about their methods and capabilities. And then more fault falls on me for not doing more to verify their work before putting it in the truck. I was so excited about getting the truck together, I just assumed all was good with the clutch. In hindsight if the clutch shop had agreed to resurface the flywheel and supply the clutch disc and pressure plate. I could have taken it all to a machine shop and had the holes accurately drilled in the flywheel. That's why they say hindsight is 20/20.Oh MAN what a bummer... how could someone sell work like that? If it was off by half that you'd still have a serious vibration. That kind of work can't be done by eyeballing it, geez. :***: