My truck has always taken driving 5+ miles of driving 60+ mph to start to warm up (100°+) and ran around 180° under normal empty driving.
Hook up a trailer (usually a 20+' gooseneck) and it runs 200-210°
I replaced the original radiator with an all aluminum one and it runs at 165° now. Even...
This is awesome. Something I have toyed around with doing, but wasn't sure how it would crawl with the engine being so heavy.
How was weight distribution?
Noticably nose heavy?
Did you have to counter it with high spring rates on the front?
I took a 5/8" deep impact socket and cut the side out of it and a flat out of the hex to slide past the fuel line. It makes quick easy work of my injectors to crack them when need be. I keep it on a ratchet in my glove box at all times.
Still gonna be a good time. You had me at great lunch! Haha.
The meet in the spring will have to happen if the Dyno doesn't work out! I want to see history made!
https://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech-articles/axles/identify-your-ford-truck-axle-from-the-door-sticker/
Rear axle swap isn't hard, but the Sterling 10.25 weighs a little bit. A good rolling floor jack and/or a good friend with a strong back is necessary.
I've done a swap on a 94 2wd cclwb 350...
I completed a zf5 swap on my 89, so I'm selling everything from that and what I had laying around in the way. I'll be bringing all this to the idi Dyno/show and shine November 16th in San Antonio.
Discounted prices at the meet!
Idi 4wd c6. Regular driving was fine, but slipped/ran hot (220°)...
I planned on taking a lot of pictures and doing a full write-up... But didn't end up being on a time crunch.
It's pretty straightforward. Especially if you have a complete parts truck. Disassemble the zf5 truck and put it in the other truck in reverse order.
A 6.9/7.3 trans might have bolted up no problems with a little wiggle room. I drilled the holes 1/2" (bolt size) not bellhousing hole size because I didn't have a bit that size. My c6 bolt holes were a little bit larger than the bolt.
All the other holes were perfect and then this one was way...
I have always wanted to put one on my truck, but can't find the heart to drill holes in my perfectly good roof... :-(
Clearance lights also... But I just can't do it!
The swap is complete!
Here is some nuggets of wisdom I learned in the process I can hopefully pass on to others:
I used a gas zf5 for the wide ratio.
I used the adapter plate (bellhousing to block that the starter bolts to) off a 6.9 to drill out the bellhousing to bolt up. Tap out the...
It absolutely is! I can't express how different it is with manual from that dying c6 and the hydroboost system over the stock vacuum boost. It went from slugging start and stop to flying like the wind and stopping on a dime!
I did mine myself. Used a putty knife. My sealant was letting go at the bottom causing leaks. My windshield was in perfect shape.
I managed to get it out with the help of 2 friends in tact.
Buffed all the old sealant off with a wire wheel (it's a mess).
Used 3m window weld (I think that's what...
It's coming up! Can't wait to be there!
I'm not so focused on the show and shine part... Being my paint never shines... But hey! I'll bring a bed full of parts from my manual swap and other transmissions and what not I have laying around the shop! Cheap/free to members.
This was bolted to the transmission cross member with the trans mount bolts.
Cross member was sandwiched between this and the transmission mount. The cast blocks kinda float on the bracket. Really strange. Any ideas?
This was under my c6, I'm putting in a zf5. Should I chunk it? Put it back...
Any custom sticks out there? Y'all all kept the stock shift stick/knob?
I'm thinking about somehow putting a switch in the knob for my gear vendors unit so I can shift it with my hand and not the floor while I'm in gear (trying to make it smooth).
Any thoughts? Ideas? Looking for streamlined.
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