I did not do a tech article but the gist of it is this. The ends are fine. You pull the steering wheel end joint off and cut the outter shaft so that it’s short enough to install when collapsed. I basically collapsed the stock shaft and cut the new one to that length. It came out good.
There...
~$500 for 2. Price per came down in quantity but I didn’t inquire too deep. I think I can do better. It was a crime of opportunity. My buddy drew it up and he happened to be stopping by a shop for something else so he asked for me.
I did. Made one. Came out crooked. I couldn’t get the die started on it in the little lathe I had access to so ended up threading it by hand. It’s off just enough I wouldn’t trust it to run it. It wobbles. Now I don’t have access to a lathe anymore. I keep looking though.
I’ve said it before...
Ah! I don’t think that will work, but I’m not sacrificing my 6.4 clutch to find out. Got a price on a bushing today and about had kittens. I will be looking further.
Yep subway... you are late to the party.
LOL
That’s exactly what @ifrythings did. IDI fan will bolt. Just need a shoulder bolt or the like as the idi is 5/16 and the 6.4 is 6 mm. Or do what he did and drill and tap the 6mm to 5/16”.
Yes. There’s also literature that talks about adding oil (assuming it’s not low on fluid) basically over fills the thing so that there is always fluid in the finned section inside which is what causes the friction between the halves. Switching that to a more viscous fluid I would think would...
I had been staring at this trying to figure out how to adjust the spring to pin it closed essentially. That would do it! If it’s “reversible” on truck that could be my short term fix until plan A becomes viable. If it gets hot with the clutch locked, I’m pretty well screwed anyway.
Well, I was in a hurry...[emoji16]
What saved you from carrying a spare? Or you carry a spare and the spare has saved you?
So a little more backstory. The truck has intermittently been cranking slower. Now it’s cranking very slow routinely to the point of needing the GP’s when it’s warm. I...
So this is what I found on the Horton clutch.
Here we have it cold.
Here we have it hot. It seems to start curling at around 120 and is full lock at around 160 F.
When I ordered it, I ordered the IDIT version which was supposed to come on sooner. My data would support that. I keep...
I’ve been giving this a lot of thought. Garbage mechanic brings up an excellent point. It’s something I’ve wondered about. Flow. I know I originally tried to test the clutch with just a sheet of cardboard in front of the radiator. It led me to think about what I’ve got. I’ve got 3” of...
It’s supposed to be locked when you start it.
This is actually a good tutorial. I assume most of them are similar.
tps://www.haydenauto.com/en/search?q=Tutorial
I think that will get you there.
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