Question - the pump body is secured in the same slot that holds the magnet. It doesn't seem to matter which one is inserted first in the slot. Is there right or wrong way to do it?
If no one else chimes in, I may have the info you need when I get back from out of town. I'm going to use a serpentine belt setup on my '88 7.3 and I should have the bolts all bagged somewhere in the garage.
I've done that before -- my '69 Bronco is registered in Vermont, and since they don't issue titles for older vehicles, the registration functions as my title, too. I just need to get a Texas title for it one of these days.
Very easy to build your own cables and a great excuse to buy more tools, too! Just buy some bulk cable, some Novalox (put on the ends), a crimper from Amazon (I have both types), military terminals, adhesive lined heat shrink, and brand name copper lugs (I use Ancor).
If you have a pair of 850 cca batteries that are fresh and charged, you don't need more battery. Military terminals are good, but do you have good lugs crimped on the cables? Are the battery cables in good shape? Did you remove the grounds and clean the connections?
Should be a 1356 transfer case; if so, these are quite simple to rebuild. I just went through one and put new seals and bearings in it. You should do the pump mod while you're in there -- that will keep the pump from rubbing a hole in the case and/or turning with the shaft and destroying...
Well, it's all back together and installed. No real issues with reassembly.
I'll post a link to the YouTube video that I did on the process once it's edited and uploaded.
I hear you on the pump gear and housing; we'll see if it's an issue getting it lined up.
Good point on the motor mounts; it was not easy getting it lined up. I'll try your method next time.
In Justin's video, he goes to 150. I split the difference between the factory spec (125) and Justin's...
Got it done today.
Started by drilling a hole from underneath to mark the center of the hole that needed to be cut. Then got the shifter mounted and figured out where it needed to be enlarged. Then a few more cuts with the death wheel, followed by a quick wire wheel, flap disk, and some paint...
Part 3 is on YT now - installing valley pan, intake, heads and head studs, water pump, fuel pump, rockers and pushrods, and installing it in the truck.
Use some calipers measure the width and thickness of new and old rings. If you don't have digital calipers, pick up a set for $10 or $20 from Auto Zone or Amazon. Report back with details.
I just finished my ZF5 rebuild and filled it up today with Mercron V. In doing a bit of research, I saw a few folks said that the ZF5's don't like the low viscosity (LV) Mercron.
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