Try using an electric or pneumatic wire wheel. It should look like the rest of the head when all the carbon is off.
This is the setup I used to clean my heads at home.
I would clean the carbon off the combustion surface a little more before measuring. When I checked my heads for flatness, i just did the light trick because im lazy. Set straight edge on head length wise so it's parallel with the head, and shine a light at the mating surface on one side, and...
This is what I primarily use on litrrally... Everything. The compression tube format makes application easy.
Skins over in 30minutes, fully cures in 24hrs. We put oil pans on with this and immediatly run the engines at work, no leaks.
It is usually whatever color the manufacturer put in it. To know the real differences you'll have to read the packaging. Usually its working temp ranges and cure times.
I put a bead of silicone on both sides of the gasket and fully let it cure. I put the bead on the block, slap the gasket up, then bead the pan and put the pan up. Overkill? Probably. Guess how many leak... :peelout
Yowch, sorry to hear about that. I'd be pulling er apart to see what the heck is going on and also cjeck for bearing damage.
Kind of order of operation I would go is check to see if the pickup tube screen is plugged, then pull the oil pump off and check it out.
I would also pull #1 and #4 rod...
Here are some better pictures.
By the way, I've purchased CDD's head gasket before, it is literally just a Felpro 7.3 head gasket drilled to have the coolant holes like a 6.9 head gasket :joker:
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/7-3-cooling-mod.81986/
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