I would probably not purchase those mirrors in the 1st picture. I, unfortunately, bought some aftermarket mirrors that looked similar and they whistled very loudly. Notice how in the 2nd picture it is a nice, smooth, and curved surface that is pushing through the air? Plus on mine the rubber...
Just curious here but what is/are the primary advantage/s of deleting the factory fuel header? Any issues with damage to frame mounted setup when in rough terrain/off-road?
You can also do what towcat told me to do and just use a good blob of JB Weld to "fix" it. Just unplug the heater, apply goop, and shape the goop so it doesn't look too terrible. 3 years down the road and no leaks!
Yeah I would never pass on OBS seats in good condition--quite rare to find these days.
Just noticed you are in Oakhurst. One of my all time favorite backpacking/fishing spots is there in the Ansel Adams wilderness area up Beasore road, I think. There was an unmaintained trail that led to the...
Do you get lots of white smoke while attempting to start it?
Have you tried an electric fuel pump or a new mechanical? Any sign of fuel leaks before the pump and filter head?
With so many new parts I would be scratching my head tooo_O
Even at 60 degrees my truck likes a full 10 second glow to fire right up--8 seconds it might start with a cough. From what I have read 10 seconds is a safe number in terms of avoiding burning out the GPs. I've been doing it this way for about 4 years and no issues, although I haven't tested my...
I have had good luck with these I purchased through Del City
https://www.delcity.net/store/Perma!Seal-Heat-Shrink-Bullet-Connectors/p_819090.h_819091
They seem to grip the GP pretty well--better than the cheap-o blue plastic ones from NAPA.
My guess would be that your GP wiring is producing excess resistance somewhere and the controller thinks the GPs are hot when they are not quite ready. The controller does not sense temperature but measures resistance, wich changes as the plugs heat up. A manual GP switch is much more reliable...
Pretty much sums it up. If a plug is real tight just soak it with penetrating oil and gently try to work it loose a hair--once loose use more oil and work the plug back and forth to help distribute the oil. I had several very tight Autolite plugs to remove but in the end they all came out...
On a stock F350 front end I fit 255/85/16 no problem--they do come close to the bumper but no contact. For simplicity and reliable starts even with a few failed glow plugs I would install a manual glow plug switch.
A manual fuel shutoff mechanism instead of the 12v fuel shutoff solenoid in the...
Sounds like you have a few things going on. IF it cranks and your lift pump is functional then you should be getting fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel filter housing. IF you have fuel to the filter then you ought to have fuel to the IP. I suppose your air intrusion issue could have...
So sad to hear about Towcat. I only met him a couple times but I am sure the world is a poorer place without him. Besides knowing everything about the 7.3 idi Towcat was just plain fun to talk with. I only wish I had picked his brains when I had the chance. So long, farewell, and good luck!
It is clean looking for an '88 but $7800 is a bit much. Although I must note that right now the "adventure/overland camper rig" is pretty darn popular around my area, CA central coast, so there are probably more people willing to overpay. You wouldn't believe how many people roll around here...
That looks like the one I used. Pretty sure i found the part number on an older post here. It was a simple swap. I used 2/0 battery cable and heavy duty FTZ marine grade power lugs, which is overkill, and ran the charge wire to a 250A MegaFuse and then 2/0 to the battery. The 2/0 is a bit...
I guess wheel bearing or ball joint could be the issue. Raise the driver side wheel and see if you get much wobble while shaking the wheel. I think side to side wobble is bearing and up and down wobble is ball joint.
Not my truck--just one I saw on CList, and yeah my first thought when I read the list of upgrades was that this could be an OB member. If I wasn't hooked on the SuperCab/longbed combo I would consider driving up to look at this one.
Mixed highway and town I consistently average 13-14 with 4.10s and 255/85/16(33") tires. I never baby the skinny pedal or miss an opportunity to wind out a gear!
This is some basic electrical. When I made my harness I had never done any vehicle electrical before, but I read up on the procedure on various forums, made sure I had all the steps outlined before starting and in no time I had a functional harness that is still working nearly 4 years later...
https://fresno.craigslist.org/cto/d/1992-ford-f250-4x4-73-idi/6705807744.html
Vehicle does have a salvage title but also has a nice long list of upgrades. Seems like a reasonable gamble at $6k.
I had a flywheel with a number of chipped teeth and she still turned over just fine. I recently had an issue with my starter not turning over very fast--turned out I had significant corrosion on one of my battery ground cables. Made a new set of cables and boy does she turn over fast now...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.