This is exactly how a properly designed (e.g. temperature compensated) pyrometer should work. I wouldn't trust any gauge that doesn't read ambient when the exhaust pipe/manifold is dead "cold".
I believe OP said there was voltage directly at the glow plug. Therefore there is amperage and the feed connector cannot be burned up.... UNLESS the GPs are open-circuit, which they're not since there is tenths-of-ohms at each one while disconnected (right, OP?)
That's not quite how it works...
Batteries have internal resistance. The more current you draw, the lower the output voltage. The less charged (or more worn out) they are, the higher the internal resistance.
The starter motor can be treated as a resistive load also, at least while it's...
It may be "normal" for them, but tells me their cold-junction compensation is fixed (so only correct at one ambient temp) or nonexistent!
The cold junction is where the chromel/alumel thermocouple leads meet the terminals on the back of the gauge. A good pyrometer will have a temp sensor...
I would put the filter after the Facet pump. It has a fairly fine screen in its sediment bowl so you don't need another pre-filter. However, you definitely want a micron filter after all the plumbing and right before the IP, because any debris (including a failed pump) would otherwise go...
It's definitely wet somewhere up there, but does not look like it's coming from the hose-to-neck area. That means the t-stat housing gasket. Crapola. Not an impossible job but a fair bit of disassembling (alternator, fuel filter, brackets) to get to those two bolts!
What gripes me is that I...
Is your front tank overflowing because it's being pumped full by the rear return? That's a symptom of a stuck tank selector valve.
Or it could just be that the front return hose is cracked or came loose. You can see that from underneath without dropping the tank. If you're going to work on the...
Do you cut out the black insulation (that my truck has now) and replace it with the PS blanket, or on top of it? There's not a whole lot of clearance there with the 2.75" Banks pipe and it'd be worse with a 3".
I just converted my NA to factory turbo, so I have the air cleaner (missing the snorkel), the lid and sealing washer. Don't need the washer nozzles, but I am willing to sell it. PM me (shipping will be from 65775). thanks.
Any K-type thermocouple will work. They range in price from $6.99 (don't waste the money) to $100 (probably overpaying for the name on the box). Just remember you need special leads to extend the cable if it's not long enough (can't just splice in some copper wire).
hey, I spun a rod bearing on a Mopar slant-6 once, pulled the plug wire on that cylinder and drove it 50 miles at 50 mph with the oil idiot light on...
Today I put the pyro gauge on the bench and checked out the scale reading vs. DC millivolts applied, at major scale divisions (100F). It is quite close with the K-type thermocouple table adjusted for in-cab or room temperature (the cold junction is usually 32F in most tables).
So the problem is...
Yep, it feels great... I had a 7/8" bolt torqued off in the hub of a tractor rear rim. No way that was coming out with an extractor. I drilled a hole straight through it and broke out the cutting torch. THAT was fun -Flame Thrsparks and bits of molten steel flying everywhere, and didn't hurt the...
If it's got the original axles, the tag on the door jamb should have the axle code... also a D60 straight axle is pretty obvious to look at compared to a D50 with TTB.
You can tell by the tach too. At 60 mph the 4.10 rear is turning about 2100-2200 with the stock tire size. Considerably lower...
Which ones? As I originally said, stay FAR away from "Easy-Outs". There is one where you drill a hole, then hammer a splined extractor into the hole. I've found that for really stuck bolts, it either spins in the hole, or twists to the point where I was afraid of breaking it off just like the...
The fuel (lift) pump is on the right front of the engine, just where it is on a gasser. The injection pump could be leaking into the valley, then draining down the back of the block, but it should be easy to distinguish diesel from engine oil...
It is also quite possible for valve covers to...
Thanks, me too! :) I wanted to install the pyro probe before I mess with the fuel screw. So, rather than remove the wye (studs still in manifold), I just dropped the crossover and drilled/tapped another 1/8" NPT hole from underneath. Unfortunately my Chinese-crap pyro doesn't work (see the...
I just put a factory turbo on, and while doing so I tore a hole in the return hose from the IP via the right bank. It peed a LOT of diesel. Almost all of which had to be coming from the IP return, not the injectors (I've read on here somewhere that the volume of fuel returning from all eight...
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