My friend lives in Michigan. He could probally fix you up. His name is Ron. I can't remember his handle on here.
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Where are you located? We have a bunch of parts engines with brackets on them. Are you looking for factory ac v belt, dealer add on v belt, or serpentine brackets? I'm from central PA by the way.
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@no mufflers I'm still going to be optimistic that things will be opening up by then. Like you said though, there is always the scenery! I know we are still planning on going unless things go completely to pot by then.
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I wasn't sure if the tcm had the service port like an ecm does. I thought maybe if it did a chip could be burned to modify the shift strategy to aid in dyno use or even towing. I'm kinda curious now. I might have to look and see on the spare tcm we have on the shelf. I know a standalone...
I know the powerstroke guys usually have a dyno tune to lock the tranny in 3rd with the torque converter locked up too. Is there even anyway to do this with an idi? I don't know if you could get a 5 position chip or anything for the tcm like you can for a powerstrokes pcm.
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I have not tried that. Do you think it would hold up ok to the diesel fuel and oil? I love the way a raw aluminum intake looks on an engine, but once they start getting dirty they are hard to clean. We always used the spray engine enamel cans before, but they tend to discolor from the diesel and...
I'll have to dig into this more. The only one I was seeing much online about was the Donaldson setup. And even with them I wasn't finding much in the way of part numbers, prices, or availability.
I've still got my fingers crossed and have been praying that's all that was wrong. I do have to...
So I know it's been a while, but I wanted to give an update. After I disassembled everything I took all the parts to the machine shop. After he went through some checks he found 2 issues. First, that my manual I was using had the wrong main cap torque spec listed. Any other IDI manual as well as...
I'm probally going to have that checked. I had assembly lubed everything. Usually on a gas motor we prelube it by spinning the oil pump drive, but can't do that on an IDI. I've always run 15w40 oil and it had great oil pressure with my mechanical gauge.
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So question for you Wes, do you forsee having issues with glow plugs with a more advanced timing? I had timed a truck for a guy at 11 degrees per his request and a month later his 2 month old glow plugs started going bad. Now with all this being said I'm not 100% sure I trust this guy on...
Here are the top main shells and the worst of the rod bearings. I'm not to concerned about the rod bearings, the wear really is minimal. The mains and the odd pattern are what I'm puzzled by. Especially since I had it line bored.
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So a little update on my progress. I got the engine pulled and torn down. The main bearings have some odd wear patterns on the lower shells and the front upper shell. I checked and the gear lash is within spec. Everything else with the engine is looking good. So at this point I'm hoping to talk...
Well it's been a while since I've posted up an update. As a few of you know I've been chasing an engine vibration since I put the motor back together. It's not alot, but it's enough to drive me nuts. I originally thought it was a low rpm miss. So I swapped the entire fuel injection system from...
@subway I'm sorry to hear that. Megan is going to miss her partner in crime for sure! Just be safe wherever you are headed man!
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@chillman88 I was just going to suggest a psd downpipe too as long as the OD is correct and then weld some tab on to hold it in place. We may have a used psd downpipe laying around to see if it could be made to work.
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@chillman88 once they get the main crack welded up you could always cap off the inlet and outlet and then use your pressure tester to check for any more possible leaks. Also don't forget to flush the heater core with distilled water to get out any left over coolant in there too before you switch...
@laserjock I know when I called it took a few days till she called me back. I'm thinking she probally only goes into the office once a week or so.
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It's possible it only leaks when the engine warms up and builds pressure. When the engine is cold with the cap on it may not leak if it's just a small leak because there will be a slight vacuum in the radiator. I'd fix or delete that hose and go from there.
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You could always run an idler gear made out of a crank gear too if you wanted them to spin the same direction. I've always pondered the idea. I'm assuming you are going to leave the one pump "off" until higher throttle position or even based off boost. Will the pump be fine just to freewheel...
Well our reservations are made for July 11-18th! I forgot to ask what site number, but she said we are right next to @no mufflers . We are already excited!
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It seems to well made to not be legit. The seal is part of the sealed ball bearing in the picture. The main seal, if it's like the married units, is behind the bolted on plate. I believe when you unbolt the plate it'll come right off because the input shafts are internally splined.
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@Thewespaul I'm not sure why Garrett ever went to that style either. The old turbos with the clamp bolts worked too and gave you more adjustment room.
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My turbine housing mounts the same way, it has a bunch of holes around the housing. I found this on Garrett's website about the turbo mounting. There was a technical paper I remember reading, but I can't find it online at the moment.
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I remember it being in there. I was able to cock mine on the hypermax mount. I think I have a picture somewhere. I used the front for the inlet and rear for the outlet.
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Looking good @Thewespaul ! One question I have is when I put my GT3788R on my engine I recall a paper that came with the turbo saying that for the water cooling to work as designed that the outlet needed to be higher than the inlet. I can't remember the exact angle they wanted, but I think it...
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