I do believe there has been 4x4 dually with pickup box , back at least to 1986, a dually and cab and chassis are two different trucks.
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I have a complete wiring diagram for an 89, but with it in front on you it would take me some time to trace them all out. Am wondering if you don't have a bad ground on it for the tach.
Mean to add this part too.
Unlike GM, Ford chose to only offer the diesel engine option in trucks with a gross vehicle weight (GFW) rating of 8600 pounds or greater. The standard F-250 with its lighter chassis and semi-float rear axle, and 6600 pound GVW wasn’t thought to be strong enough. This...
Found this that is a good read. Prior to 1985, all F-250 HD and F-350 4X4’s came with the Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front axle. The F-250’s had reverse cut Dana 44’s up until 1987 with the Dana 50 optional. Most F-250 SuperCabs came with the D50 due to the added weight. The D50 became standard in...
I rarely ever have a blow out on my flatbed with triple axles, I keep pretty good tires on all the time. They seem to be a common tire here to find. For $600 can put a whole new set on.
The problem was when I tried to change from the trailer axle hubs to 6 or 8 hole hubs. Could not find bearing to work. I use 14 ply on mine, Lowboy tires, a lot more meat and not as soft as normal trailer tires.
At the time I was doing mine I went round and round trying to find bearings, nope. Finally gave up and bought the new axles. In hind sight glad I did. Got the right length axles needed and they where not bad price ,plus got excellent brakes now , that I really need with weight I haul.
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I stayed with the 8-14.5 to not increase bed height and the tires cost less and last a good amount of time. triple axles are hard on tires. The 6 hole rim have worked out well too, I could of gone 8 hole but the rims where harder to come by for what I needed. My lift weights in at 15 thousand...
I have been down this road before. Built this trailer back in the 70s with trailer home axles, About ten yrs ago was going to rebuild them because of bad brakes, no could do , brakes on them are a one time thing. So thought well will just buy new hubs and weld flanges on for the new backing...
With a hand pump it would take 1/2 hr or more to pull the system down to 20 and hold, all connected it is a large system. Ever notice how long it takes to suck an A/C down.
If you are talking about it holding with a hand pump , don't think it will ever happen. To much of a tank to draw down. Anyhow hope things are better with the new pump once you get it on.
With that kind of vacuum nothing is going to work right until you get it higher, Not sure what is normal where you are at. Mine is 15 to 20 I believe, 3500 feet. I wouls wait until get the new pump on then check things out.
If booster is leaking see if they will warrantee it out , and make sure you use the check valve that comes with the new and don't remove it from the booster, warrantee problems.
Well that is not good if you are checking right at the pump. Replace it and hook up that black line if you have not already and things should work right.
People buy them because they are a fairly rely able diesel engine that is simple to work on and does not cost an arm and leg to buy parts for. I would not scrap it, If it still starts and runs good sell it. As much as a Cummins cost to put in I would stay with the IDI IMO.
Did you get the black line that you didn't know where goes hooked back up? It feeds vacuum to your dash controls then back to this vacuum switch. Put a vacuum pump or suck on that line will tell you if it is working or not.
In your first picture the line coming out of the bottom of that T going to the MAP senser can just run to you vacuum manifold on the firewall . And I do believe you can plug your black line that you don't know where goes there, the bottom of that T
The black line coming out of the harness goes to the T fitting, think it is like a check valve. Vacuum goes to that line anyhow to make your defrost work correct I believe. This is a picture on my 90 f250
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