would you try and open an 18yr old rear bleed screw?

[redvetracr]

I had to replace the rear brake line on my `94 IDI dually crew cab (it rusted through right at the first mounting clip behind the fuel tank), while I was able to bleed the line at the rear frame rail/flex hose I know it`s not the correct way so I`m wondering if anyone has had good luck opening rear bleeders that have never been opened, I really don`t want to snap one...or both? 88K original miles, original rear brakes, original rear Firestones.

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[89greendiesel]

squirt it with PB blaster or similar product and let it soak for a bit, 15 mins or so. spray again and let it soak again. Get a box end wrench or proper 6 point socket and it'll come loose. I have never broken one with this method.

Remember, all of the threads you don't see are exposed to brake fluid which has similar properties to our penetrating fluids that we use except it also eats paint

 

[OLDBULL8]

You won't snap the bleeder off, more than likely you'll round the hex corners off. What you have to do is fit a six point socket on the valve, it could be MM or SAE, most are 5/16" or 3/8" if MM IIRC 8MM or 10MM. Just make sure the socket fits tight, try to tighten it first. Don't heat it, you'll ruin the cups inside the cyl. If you round off the hex, Azone has a pack of all different sizes for $9.99.

Edit: Best way to get at it is remove the wheel.

 

[89greendiesel]

Edit: Best way to get at it is remove the wheel.

+1

 

[whiteboyslo]

+1 on all this. I'm positive my truck had never had its bleed screws opened in its life judging by the horrendous state of the brake fluid (bought it this February). I used a 6 point deep socket over the screw to crack it. A shot of PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating oil isn't a bad idea. After I cracked them once, they open and close like butter now.

Mike

 

[OLDBULL8]

I think the ******** at the factory use an impact to tighten them. Actually had to pull the caliper on the granddaughters Alero last week to get one out.

 

[junk]

Remember on the rear wheels the wheel cylinders are like $15 bucks. At least for a SRW So if you do snap one it's not a costly fix other than the time of having to tear into the rear brakes.

I actually just snapped a caliper bleeder here a week ago. I didn't soak it very long with PB blaster and ended up snapping it. Definitely soak it.

 

[gonecrazyi]

If their really bad a little heat goes a long way towards getting them apart.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

pretty sure mine were original with 200K on them and a little pb blaster and they came right out.

on a side note....... BUY NEW REAR TIRES!!!!



BTW, nice looking truck.

 

[ADV]

heat it up with a gas welding tip its easier to control the flame that way after you get it hot hit it with a blast of water the shock of the cold water helps brake them loose.

 

[riotwarrior]

....Remember, all of the threads you don't see are exposed to brake fluid .....

in no uncertain term is there any brake fluid present there. The taper on the tip of the bleed screw fits into a similar taper in wheel cylinder. While bleeding there may indeed be brake fluid but being that brake fluid hydroscopic in that it takes moisture in like a sponge, any remaining after a bleed will just rust once it gets any moisture in it.....

I don't know how you figured the threads are exposed to fluid except for a short time while bleeding!

 

[89greendiesel]

wellllll, it's been 3.5 hours....you get it out?

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

your going to find that a truck left sitting like this,with low miles is just going to have blown out wheel cylinders anyway once you start running the truck regularly.
do yourself a favor,don't mess with the bleeders on those cylinders,it will be for nothing anyway.just replace them now.
you'll get to inspect all while there,and mostly likely see all the brake hardware parts you'll want to replace as well at the same time.
i bought my current '93 3 yrs ago with 47k and change on the clock.this was my experience.
low miles = sitting for long periods,and things with lots of age.
it's nothing at all like a 4-5 yr old vehicle with 80k miles on it.you'll soon see.

 

[GOOSE]

I have had good luck of late loosening brake components and hard lines. All of the Logger's bleeders and lines loosened when replacing the front hoses, my '87 Chevy dump has plenty of rust and all of the tee's, fittings, hoses ect were re usable when replacing the hard lines. Most recently the tranny cooling lines loosened up to my surprise on my Mom's '91 F150 without incident. I use Knocker' Loose penetrant and usually give a few doses over a couple of days on parts I suspect to be stubborn.

You're truck looks to be pretty clean, I'd go for it.

 

[PackRat239]

If the bleeder is stuck tight, take a hammer and give it a good whack straight down on the end. Don't try to kill it, but hit it with authority. This usually does the job if it is ever going to loosen up. You can replace the bleeder if it is damaged, but try to hit it straight on. Old time mechanics trick.

PR