Wicked Wheel is here - Install Questions

apextrans

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I'm getting ready to do this upgrade & had a few questions.

What's the best way to hold the shaft still so I can remove the old compressor wheel without damaging the internals of the turbo itself? I'm assuming wedging something in there on the exhaust side to hold the wheel still is BADLOL .

What are (if there are any) the torque specs for the compressor wheel nut & the housing bolts? Didn't see anything about that in Chilton's.

Is it worth gutting the EBPV? If so, how is that done? I've never seen one up close so I don't know what's involved.

Any pitfalls or tricks I should know before tackling this?

ENLIGHTEN ME:hail :hail
 

geonc

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So...yer putting on an OBS PSD compressor wheel ;p

I wouldn't reccomend wedging the turbine wheel...I personally have never done it and really are not that comfortable doing so.....remove the DP and EBPV and gut it....just use a grinder to buzz the rivets...remove the flap.
Shaft removal ain't too bad...just get a 3/4" soft {freeze} plug.

As far as removing the comp wheel....the nut IS INTEGRAL to the wheel. after removing the compressor hsg ...be careful of the hsg seal ring--if you muck it up, just use some RTV--..use a 5/8" socket and impact it off while using a pair of vise grips on the turbine nut....it will not be hexx shape....some of the flats will appear out of angle to the rest and that is from balancing.

I say use an impact because if you try and remove the comp wheel with just a rachet and ext, you stand a chance of distorting the shaft and that is integral to the turbine wheel ie: one piece!

As far as installing the new comp wheel...just spin it on snug....it will self tighten the first time you load it;Sweet


I just gave ya a quick over view...if ya need more...just ask:D :cheers:
 

Dieselmaster

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I used a large screw driver with a rag duct taped to the end of it, wedged into the exhaust side.....

If you don't feel comfortable doing that then pull it off and use something to hold from the othe side... You may get away with using an impact ... the compressor wheel on my truck wasn't really all that tight... I used a closed end wrench and gave it one good, quick tug and it started spinning loose.

BlackCloud diesel products I think it is, talks about using the screw driver with a rag trick, that's where I got the idea... they do quite a few trucks themselves and that is what they do.... I also left the wastegate rod attached and was able to move the housing out of the way enough to get to the compressor wheel.

The hardest part of the job is moving other things out of your way... That and putting the downpipe back on by yourself.
 

Mike

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Yup, a screwdriver or a wooden or rubber handle end of a hammer. Anything to stop the shaft from being able to counter rotate. Thats how I took my wheel off when I rebuilt the turbo.
 

apextrans

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Thanks for the input guys. Gonna tackle the turbo & HPOP (as long as the stealership has one) later today. What do you think about this with regard to gutting the EBPV. Bean's told me to weld up the hole where the shaft slides out. Anybody tried that ?

In any case, keep an eye on 911 Diesel Down ifin you don't mind:D .
 

Mike

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I drove freeze plugs into my openings where the EBPV was.
 

tonkadoctor

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Freeze plug is fine, no need to weld it. Here's a link on gutting it.

All you need is one 3/4" or 20mm freeze plug, Carquest will usually have this size in stock.

Taking off my old compressor wheel was done with GEO holding the one side by hand while I used the impact to zip it off on the other side.....NOTE: Wear THICK leather gloves and use a rag to hold it...It will take off skin and rip through thin mechanics gloves.
 

Dieselmaster

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I used freeze plugs also.... I forget what size I used but I can tell you to make sure and get the Stainless steel ones.....

I bought brass ones at first... not really thinking and within a week I was having to redo them.... or should I say replace them... they were gone... nowhere to be found...

I don't know what the hell I was thinking.... I should have known better!!
 

apextrans

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Thanks for the links. I did install the wicked wheel today but that was it. Ended up with a few loads of cars to move early in the day which turned into an all day affair.

A buddy of mine gave me his stock turbo which only had 60,000 miles on it when he took it off to put on a BB turbo. I'll give him mine after I swap that one in. I put the wicked wheel in his turbo figuring a 60,000 mile unit was a better bet than a 150,000 mile unit.

Thursday will be repair day I guess. Got the HPOP & IPR from the dealer today as well. -cuss A L O T of coin for that sum beach!!

If (when) I gut the EBPV, is it required to do the pedistal mod mentioned in the link. Didn't want to take it off if I didn't have too?
 

Mike

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If (when) I gut the EBPV, is it required to do the pedistal mod mentioned in the link. Didn't want to take it off if I didn't have too?

What pedestal mod are you talking about? Removing the piston and plugging the hole?
 

tonkadoctor

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You don't have to gut the pedestal but now is the time to do it if you are considering it.

The benefit of gutting the pedestal like I did, is to eliminate a very common oil leak. If you do decide to gut it and put a 1/4" pipe plug in the hole you need to cut the end of the rod off of the piston (just enough to clear) and put the piston back in it so the turbo still gets proper lubrication. Just hook the wiring back up when done and it won't throw a code.

All you need to do this job is
  1. 1/4" NPT pipe plug (Lowe's)
  2. 1/4" NPT pipe tap (Lowe's)
  3. teflon pipe thread sealant / teflon tape
  4. pedestal and turbo O-rings (you should have already purchased the ones for the turbo if you are swapping it)
Here's an article that covers both the gutting of the EBPV and the pedestal
 

apextrans

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I did get turbo o-rings, 2 sets actually. There is a separate set of o-rings for the pedestal itself?
 

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