What to do first with engine still on the stand??

[Hillbilly]

I'm in the prepping stage of swaping my ole 6.9 F350 over to a GEN 2 5.9. I like all of the options that are available to tweak and tune on this engines. What I'm looking/asking for is waht would you do to a bone stock engine(runner that came from a wreck) on the stand before shoehorning it in? I'm asking along the lines of performance and enhancements. I'll obviously do the drain and refill fluids, prep and paint drills. Just wanting to know where to start/research since the engine is so accessable in it's current state.

Thanks in advance

Here's the thread where I questioned/decided on my next direction with this truck

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21403

Hillbilly

 

[FordGuy100]

Whats your budget?

I would probably put in a fuel plate, govenor spring (?), upgraded injectors, do some turbo mods by switching housings and what not, and thats all I can think of. I havent really looked into 12 valve performance much, but the stuff I listed should net you a huge power gain from stock, and not cost all to much and would be fairly easy to put in.

 

[argve]

You will want to wake her up to make her fun to play with.

Fuel Plate - Grind yer own - make it look like 100 plate

AFC spring kit - (Auto Fuel Control) - allows the fuel to come on a little sooner but not too soon - you will fine tune this with the star wheel adjustment - I limit mine so that it won't fuel too much below 1500 rpms (lets the boost come on first)

Govner spring kit - 3k RPM kit - moves your gov'nr up from 2200 rpm

Delivery valves - 181's - flow much more fuel than stock.

Pitch the stock injectors out for bigger ones - I would go with either 370's or 425's

3 piece exhaust manifold - flow at a higher rate than the stock one.

boost control elbow - this will allow you to fake out the wastegate - with a stock turbo I would limit it to 30~35psi so that you don't overrun the intercooler effects. - You are putting on the intercooler correct????

4 inch exhaust - with the 3 piece exhaust manifold you will really need the free flowing exhaust.

Then upgrade the turbo if it's not enough power for ya.

Advance the timing to 16 degrees to help with upper end power and egt's.

One thing that helps keep the EGT's from building is adjusting the star wheel correctly - once you build the heat it's hard to shed it, that's why I have dialed mine back some so that I don't over do it before the turbo lites up.

 

[big jake]

most important is to take care of the KDP (Killer dowel pin) in the timing gear case. If this is not addressed before it works loose it can ruin your whole day.

Once you start making a few extra HP you will probably want to get ahold of Peter at SOUTH BEND CLUTCH and upgrade that if you are running a stick.

Enjoy!!!!


big jake

 

[Hillbilly]

boost control elbow - this will allow you to fake out the wastegate - with a stock turbo I would limit it to 30~35psi so that you don't overrun the intercooler effects. - You are putting on the intercooler correct????

I wasn't able to get the stock intercooler, thus I'm in the market for one. Any suggestions? I see others swapping there stock ones out for something bigger and better. I'd like to step uo to the plate and get one that I want be upgrading downing the road. Especially since I've got figure out how and to get it in my truck that was never designed for one.

I'm still hunting for a tranny, a manual one at that. My engine came with the clutch assembly and 5spd bellhousing still attached. I know nothing about the clutch's history, so I was going to replace/upgrade it now. I've got a guy that I use to build my clutches in my crawlers and gas tow rigs. But never heard him talk much about turned up oil burners before. What brand/type would you guys recommend? I'd like something that'll grow with the truck. I understand there's a certain threshold after awhile, but I don't wanna throw a new OE replacement in there and wish I'd have upgraded.

Asfar as my budget goes, here's how that works. I wrench and fabricate on the side for my big boy toy addiction as I call it. I can throw most anything at this engine, it just means it'll be sitting on the stand alittle longer until I'm ready to shove it off in there. There really isn't a time crunch to get this done, but I'm drolling thinking about this new engine coming to life underneath the hood of my ole F350

Are there any online resources for the wiring schematics of this engine? I see some wires that I'm curious about their duties. Like the sensor at the harmonic balancer. I ASSume that's a CPS sensor. What does that do on an oilburner, trigger a solenoid to pump fuel at the INJ pump? If anyone can shoot me in the right direction of that I'd be very grateful.

 

[Whit]

What year truck did ya get the Cummins from???

I may have an intercooler lemme go look

 

[Whit]

this guy had an intercooler for sale.....dunno if he still has it though

http://www.dieselbombers.com/member.php?u=390

as far as a clutch goes I would go with nothing less than a South Bend Clutch.................what tranny ya gonna run???

 

[Whit]

found pics of the intercooler

 

[FordGuy100]

He said that is was a 94-95 engine.

 

[Whit]

He said that is was a 94-95 engine.

he need one hot wire to the fuel solinoid to make er run

 

[big jake]

I believe that the cooler in my truck is a stocker out of a 2000 PSD

 

[Hillbilly]

this guy had an intercooler for sale.....dunno if he still has it though

http://www.dieselbombers.com/member.php?u=390

as far as a clutch goes I would go with nothing less than a South Bend Clutch.................what tranny ya gonna run???

Whatever I can stir up. I'm open to anything right now, seeing as I don't have one. I'd even consider one that's in need of a rebuild for a fair price. I'm currently shopping for one

 

[Whit]

I got a PM back from him and the intercooler is gone............some dude off DTR got it

a quick search came up with this one

http://lakeland.craigslist.org/pts/530740027.html

 

[Hillbilly]

Thanks for checking. I looks like it's gonna be a tight fit getting the intercooler behind the grille and infront of the AC. I guess I'll find out when I start assembling everything. I think I'm gonna pull the front clip when I do this mod and then starting placing everything back as I go.

 

[NoGin_Cummins]

he need one hot wire to the fuel solinoid to make er run

Basically But the fuel solenoid on the P7100 requires 3 wires and a 70 amp relay
It runs in 2 stages, A higher current to pull the plunger in, and a low current to hold it there, you could have a push button switch for the Initial Pull in, and just run the holding current thru your ignition, If you want to save money on the relay (lordco qouted me 180$) The caravans/voyagers between 1992 and 1995 with the electric brake booster use the exact same relay for the brake accumulator pump, It is on the right hand side inner fender and will be the only relay that says HI-RAM on it . Either way, the initial draw from the solenoid can be enough to blow fuses and melt stuff, iv'e seen it happen, so its always good to use a decent guage of wire.

Personally... since you are building a custom truck anyway.... I would rig up a manual fuel shutoff... like a choke cable, the solenoid is pretty reliable... but if its mechanical you are guaranteed never to worry about it... plus its easier.