WALKER Part # 19430

[loloc]

Exhaust & Emission : Exhaust System Kit for your 1992 FORD F-350
WALKER Part # 19430 : http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/?carcode=1126662&parttype=10727&a=avl995740c1126662

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Mines on the way!

 

[Macrobb]

Hm... I think it's missing the turbo pedestal. And I don't see the V-band flange for the downpipe either!




<_<

 

[loloc]

Turbo for this old thing....if it keeps performing, and I find a block with fire rings...then maybe.

 

[Macrobb]

Turbo for this old thing....if it keeps performing, and I find a block with fire rings...then maybe.

A block with fire rings? What?

Being as you have a 7.3 motor, you can slap a standard turbo kit on - Banks, Hypermax or ATS(including Ford Factory Turbo) - turn up a stock IP as far as it will go, and it'll handle it just fine all day long, at a good 1.5x non-turbo HP. (stock HP: 185 at the crank, 125 at the wheels).
There's quite a few people around here, and on FTE forum, that have had setups like this for many years. One guy has over 400,000 miles on a turbo'd stock IDI, and it's still going strong.

Once you start adding more power than that, you add a set of headstuds and more fuel. A set of headstuds, combined with a 110CC pump will net you a reliable 250-ish RWHP.
So, for $2500($500 - turbo kit, $500 - headstuds, $1200 - pump, $300 - injectors), you could easily double the crank HP, with a reliable setup that'll tow all day long.

Beyond that, you need a bigger than stock turbo and better valve springs, and you can hit 300RWHP with the same pump.

The next weakpoint is the connecting rods, at about 400RWHP, 1,000ft-lbs of torque. So... yeah, these motors can handle a /lot/ more than we give them credit for.

 

[loloc]

My research on this site resulted heavily toward a factory block from a turbo truck, 93 - 94.5 for a direct fit, Hypermax said the same when I was yappin' to him late one night about his turbo. Fire rings at the top of each cylinder came heavily recommended.

 

[icanfixall]

My suggestion about fire rings is please show me and others this will work. I feel it will never work because of our precups. A fire ring is about as round as it comes in the block. If you had a CNC mill you MIGHT e able to program to cut the groove around the fire ring and not thru the middle of it. I'm not the person that knows fire rings but this is my thoughts. I'm interested in how this may work for the idi engine.

 

[loloc]

Uhhh.. a fire ring is thick area of casting at the top of each cylinder. It extends down cutting off the water jacket, they are roughly as deep down as the size of the combustion chamber when the piston is at TDC. They strengthen the block from the design of a normally aspirated application to withstand greater combustion pressure produced when turbo charging.
A block from a turbo and non-turbo 7.3 should look the same, it's just that the fire ringed block has a thicker deck and smaller water jackets to accommodate.
People say it's insurance.
The first turbo charged 7.3 engines have fire rings, the NAs do not.

 

[loloc]

A block with fire rings? What?

Being as you have a 7.3 motor, you can slap a standard turbo kit on - Banks, Hypermax or ATS(including Ford Factory Turbo) - turn up a stock IP as far as it will go, and it'll handle it just fine all day long, at a good 1.5x non-turbo HP. (stock HP: 185 at the crank, 125 at the wheels).
There's quite a few people around here, and on FTE forum, that have had setups like this for many years. One guy has over 400,000 miles on a turbo'd stock IDI, and it's still going strong.

Once you start adding more power than that, you add a set of headstuds and more fuel. A set of headstuds, combined with a 110CC pump will net you a reliable 250-ish RWHP.
So, for $2500($500 - turbo kit, $500 - headstuds, $1200 - pump, $300 - injectors), you could easily double the crank HP, with a reliable setup that'll tow all day long.

Beyond that, you need a bigger than stock turbo and better valve springs, and you can hit 300RWHP with the same pump.

The next weakpoint is the connecting rods, at about 400RWHP, 1,000ft-lbs of torque. So... yeah, these motors can handle a /lot/ more than we give them credit for.

You know in the early 1990's our local machinist had 17 of these lined up under his work bench one day, all had bent rods and low mileage, but after market turbos were fairly new, and when the 7.3 showed up so did the cracked blocks, but slap control additive was not something the average guy had heard of. Production line casting of parts is also a funny thing. If you can read casting numbers you can get a real good idea of what your looking at, and blocks built at the end of an engine run are usually the furthest from design.
I was thinking Stan's Headers from Washington state for mine, and turn the Stanadyne up 1 flat.

 

[Macrobb]

All I know is that there are plenty of people out there running solid heavily-turbocharged rigs.
Justin @ R&D has pretty much found the limits of the 7.3 with his test motors: Connecting rods bend at around 400rwhp.

I've picked up multiple turbocharged trucks off Craigslist cheaply in the last few years, with motors obviously having run for multiple hundred thousand miles(judging by the layers of caked oil and look of age).
This includes 6.9's - I picked up a '92 truck cheaply, with a banks turbo. Needed a little work and a clutch. I go in to replace the clutch, and figure out that the motor was actually a rebuilt/remanufactured motor at some point, and is actually a 6.9(found stickers to corroborate) . I finally found a date that looks like a build date on the block - looks like around the year 2000 it was put in. And it sure looks like that motor has seen some miles; the truck has 300K on it. It's still running just fine. That's with a stock 6.9, head bolts(not studs)... but only mild fueling it seems.

My '93, well, it's running strong still. I know that the motor in that was swapped in about 60K ago due to the original factory turbo motor cavitating... the motor that was swapped in was a non-turbo block and was *not* a recent rebuild as of 60K ago.
I've since added a good 100HP to it(dyno shows 245 at the wheels), and she's still trucking along just fine. I'm not convinced that it will handle this level of fueling without headstuds for long, though.


I see no reason for a fire ring(as long as you add headstuds to keep the heads from lifting, you can run as much boost as you want to - Justin was hitting 47 PSI on his "stock" 88 test rig). Yes, at 47 psi and 400+ RWHP, the connecting rods bent after a couple of weeks... but that's one heck of a lot beyond the 15-ish PSI and 180-ish RWHP you can get out of a basic turbo kit and stockish pump.

 

[loloc]

O.K. I'm in. Not right now, but I'll start looking for parts as soon as I decide on the turbo.
As we speak, my truck is in the shop for the E4OD. I rebuilt it a while back and it seemed fine and then just stopped. The transmission shop has it, they also found cracked rear leaf springs, three on each side. I dropped off new leaf packs and a set of sulastics I had been meaning to install.
So when I believe the trans is reliable, what do you think I should set my sights on? I always liked Hypermax, but I had never considered using factory parts, they are easy to come by what pieces and years do I need. I thought ATS and Banks dropped their kits. Hypermax kit is $2365.00.

 

[Macrobb]

Looks like Banks is still selling their kits too.

That being said...
Personally, I'd be looking around wrecking yards. There are plenty of kits around, and you can go through a website like car-part.com if you need to to have one pulled and shipped. Probably cost you around $500.
Craigslist is a good place to lurk, too.

If you decide to get a new kit, I'd be talking with Justin @ R&D - idiperformance.com. I'd give him a call(number is on the website) and see what he can do.
He has his own custom-fabbed kit, and I think the design is better compared to the others.
For his, you have a choice of turbos, and I'll bet you can work something out with him depending on the power levels you want, etc.

On most of the kits, I'd say the 'weak point' is the crossover pipe. It's just a piece of exhaust pipe going under the truck between the two sides, but the flanges at either end tend to rust and get weak after a long time.
Justin can make replacements for both the Banks and ATS/Ford kits.

Note that I say ATS/Ford, because the two are very similar. ATS designed and sold Ford the kits, and the only real difference is the air box. The piping is very similar.
The Ford stock kit has a squashed down pipe to better fit the truck clearance-wise, which robs some HP. Justin makes retrofit parts for this too.

Now... as much as everyone complains about it, I just slapped a big pump on my Ford squished-down-pipe truck, and made 245HP with a clutch that may have slipped. So I'm not sure quite how important it is, especially if you aren't running a muffler behind it.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Now... as much as everyone complains about it, I just slapped a big pump on my Ford squished-down-pipe truck, and made 245HP with a clutch that may have slipped. So I'm not sure quite how important it is, especially if you aren't running a muffler behind it.

Swap it out to an uncrushed one and see your EGT's plumit and then put it back on the dyno.Things will become clear quick I bet.

 

[Macrobb]

Swap it out to an uncrushed one and see your EGT's plumit and then put it back on the dyno.Things will become clear quick I bet.

I'll probably do that at some point... but I can't do anything until I get a better clutch. I can currently make it slip at about 22-2400 unloaded just by flooring it.. and as soon as it slips, I lose some boost as the revs skyrocket.
...Also, before I push more HP than this, it needs headstuds. I'm convinced. Even if it's only pushing 15 PSI of boost.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I'll probably do that at some point... but I can't do anything until I get a better clutch. I can currently make it slip at about 22-2400 unloaded just by flooring it.. and as soon as it slips, I lose some boost as the revs skyrocket.
...Also, before I push more HP than this, it needs headstuds. I'm convinced. Even if it's only pushing 15 PSI of boost.

A stout E4OD build w/ triple lockup converter will cure all that ails her.