Truck acting weird

[gdhillon]

Drove the truck after a couple days today to the gym. When I went to fire it up after I was done the fuel filter like kept flashing/flickering. The light Turned off after a couple minutes. How would i install a new filter? Just screw off fill the new one up with diesel and screw on?

Second odd thing the truck was doing was I felt some resistance with the steering, almost like it was sticking. So I stopped and turned the wheels both ways and it was fine. Could this be something to do with the ps fluid gumming up while driving? Not sure if it matters or not but, the hubs were locked in.

Amd last i find the inside windows of the cab like to freeze/frost up. My windshield isn't crack free to say the least could it just be that there isnt a proper seal there?

 

[bbjordan]

gdhillon,

1) The fuel filter light indicates that the fuel pressure sensor is not seeing adequate pressure. This is usually caused be a dirty fuel filter. That is why they called it a Fuel Filter light. It could be a lift pump going, but start with the simple/cheap stuff first: replace the fuel filter. It is that simple. Some guys actually fill the fuel filter with diesel and then let it sit a bit. They then slosh it around a bit and pour it out! Then they fill the filter with fresh diesel and install it. I haven't done this in the past, but I think I may start. I'm curious to see how much "stuff" there is an a new filter.

2) I don't think its PS fluid gumming up. I had a similar experience and it turned out to be the front axle Ujoints were practically siezed! Check your front axel U-joints!

3) You are in Prince George in winter. What do you expect? jk
Does your truck put out good heat when its warm? If not, it may be a gunked up heater core. Check your heater hoses for kinks. Also, on these old trucks the foam seals for the doors in the heater unit tend to disintegrate.

 

[gdhillon]

put diesel in the new filter then slosh it around and spill?....new ones come contaminated?. What kinda filter do you recommend?

How would i go about checking these ujoints? (mines a d50 ttb). I have jacked the front end up (both tires in air) and grabbed them at 12 & 6, and 3&9 and moved them I didnt get play.

Haha, very funny last winter it never did this. Yep I just replaced the heater hoses this summer, once the trucks warm itll get the cab pretty toasty. Im thinking your right on the seals.

Thanks for you replies bbjordan....and btw I have been to the mall a couple times and never saw your sons truck?

Thanks again!
-Gavin

 

[Maverick1701]

I just fill with diesel kleen and screw it on....ready to rock.

 

[gdhillon]

Would I be able to rule out the ujoints if I unlocked the hubs and the turning is fine?

 

[bbjordan]

gdhillon, I have been using WIX filters.

Would I be able to rule out the ujoints if I unlocked the hubs and the turning is fine?

Unlocking the hubs lessens the probability of running into the problem, so it may appear fine.

To check the front u-joints:

Set the parking brake on (if it works)
Block the back wheels (safety first)
Put the transfer case in neutral
Lock the hubs in
jack up the front end and put it on jack stands or something sturdy. (NEVER work under a vehicle supported only with a jack)
Turn the steering wheel all the way over to one direction
Rotate the wheel and feel for binding or rough turning. Do this for both sides.
Turn the steering wheel all the way the other way
Rotate the wheel and feel for binding or rough turning. Do this for both sides.
Compare to how the wheels rotate when the tires are pointed straight ahead

While your under there you might as well check tie rod ends. I use a big set of pump pliers. Just set them so you can squeeze the tie rod end. If there is more than a couple of millimeters of play, its time to replace them. Check the ball joints too. The lowers usually go first. This works better with two people. Have your buddy grab the bottom of the wheel and try to move it in and out. Watch to see if there is any movement at the ball joint. There should be none. Do this with the top of the tire as well. You can also stick a 2x4 under the wheel and try and pry it up. Be careful you don't knock the truck off the jack stands!

It's always good to take a good look around. Take your time. Lay on your back, relax, get to know the underside of your truck.

Hope this helps,
The Grampulator.

 

[gdhillon]

Thanks that is helpful, now hopefully we get some warm weather so I can comfortably do this: p

 

[gdhillon]

For the fuel filter would I get the standard one or, the one with the separator and sensor?

 

[bbjordan]

???

What are you running now?

The stock set up has a piece that screws onto the bottom of the filter. This piece houses the separator, water in fuel sensor and has the drain in it. See pic below.

You must be registered for see images attach

If you don't have this piece on the bottom of your filter, some one has changed it out. In this case you will need the filter with the separator and sensor. Or you can try and find a bottom piece...

 

[Wyreth]

When you're filling your new filter up, make sure to ONLY pour fuel/dieselkleen/atf into the outer ring of holes. That will keep unfiltered fuel from being fed to the IP.

Really it's only a tiny chance of getting debris into the IP when changing the filter, but.... why not be extra careful?

Also, WIX makes a one piece filter/separator for the 7.3 head. So if your bowl is damaged/missing, you can just go that rout.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Just speaking from experience: your fuel filter light goes on by reading a pressure drop accross the filter. When I run lots of WMO and it's cold outside, my fuel filter light flickers. When I add more diesel or biodiesel, and the fuel mixture is less viscous, it usually goes away. I'm guessing it's cold up there: did your light come on during a cold spell? If it did, I would buy an extra filter and keep it behind the seat. I don't change mine until the light stays on continuously, and the filter I have on now has been periodically plugged several times but I run lots of WMO.

Good luck.

R. J.

 

[gdhillon]

Yes it does have, that drain, looking, thing underneath it. So id just get the "standard" one and swap my, old sepera rator on the new filter. I looked it up in my manual and it pretty much just says screw old, off and install new.

Yes, it was _20c that day not sure what that is in fahrenheit, and the truck was a little hard to start.

I took it to the college shop today to have, them check the steering issue out he said the ujoints are fine just the tie rod coming from the steering box needs to be replaced and a, long one does to. Ill have to clarify which ones they are with him tmo.

On a side note its been parked since today bc I didn't want to chance it the way the steering is and the filter. The filter light did not come on today and the steering seemed fine

Thanks for all the help guys

 

[gdhillon]

I asked the shop teacher he said i need the tie rod from the box to the the right wheel and the short one to the right, there both outer tie rods. And he cleared up the steering issue its bc i had the hubs locked and when I was turning the cardon joint only could take so much