I got my Fowler 5" micrometer and
think I was able to figure out how to zero out the bore gauge @ 4.1100". After making sure the micrometer read 0 with the 4" calibration stick it came with, I set it as follows:
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I then put the bore gauge in #7 first and got this reading near the top:
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And this near the mid/lower section:
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I then took the same readings in #5. These are my numbers:
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According to the service manual, #1 - #6 can be no bigger than 4.1115" and #7 - #8 max out at 4.1120".
So my #7 is barely within spec before honing and #5 is out of spec by 0.00505".
Also, max allowed taper is 0.003". My #7 is 0.0011 which is good, but #5 is 0.0054, which is almost double the spec. I'm sure honing with cheap 3 piece stone didn't do anything positive for the taper.
I never could get the "Setting Bore Gage to a known size" to work, but I'm pretty sure I got it calibrated to where it showed 0.00000" repeatedly when inserting the gauge in the micrometer.
And I choose MIN before rocking in each bore. So do these measurements look to be in the ballpark of what I should be getting?
Anyway, maybe just bite the bullet and take the block to a shop to have #5 bored to 4.1300 (so I can use a .020 piston from the original engine) and then have them do a proper hone of the other 7 holes? Hell, maybe just take them all to 4.1300 so I can reuse all my 0.020 pistons. I need 8 sets of new rings anyway.
The
place I spoke to last week, that specialize in diesel engines and are quite familiar with the IDIs, said they could have my block in and out in between 3 - 4 hours and that would include hot tanking and putting in new cam bearings. Shop charges $110/ hour. So maybe not that bad of a deal?