TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK UP

[MARQ2277]

Well I did it. After much research, and debating, I decided to install a switch to better control the lock up of the torque converter. I decided to install a three (3) way switch though. In the top position, the controler (stock) is in control of when the torque converter is to lock up. In the middle position, the torque converter lock up is turned off. This would come in handy when towing, and/or when hauling heavy loads. That way it will just shift through all the gears, including overdrive. And, than you could lock it back up, etc. Than, in the bottom position, the torque converter is lock up.

Now, I did notice, it is better to only lock it up, after about 20 mph. Any slower, and the idle of the engine wants to kind of take off, and you got to drag the brakes, woooo horse.

What I did was (in my 1990 F250 4X4), I removed the floor pan, spliced the purple wire with a yellow stripe (it will be actually pin four (4) on the harness, the larger red wire which is power to the transmission will be pin one (1)); and because I do electrical work, I sodered the wires using a connector and heat shrink. I positioned the switch next to the Overdrive lock out switch already on the dash.

My next project will be to install a Greg Evens Accumelator (spelt wrong), which will firm up the shift, and extend the life and reliability of my E4OD.

Has anyone out there done anything like that?? Is so, how was your results. Was it worth the $225 I am about to spend on the pay day??

Marq

 

[dieselrunner]

not to sound ignorant but what is the point of doing this?
from my understanding a torque converter is like a clutch in an auto trans?
and when towing you never want the converter to lock up?
lock up or a torque converter is dependant on the rpms of an engine in stock form correct?
does locking the converter affect shifts at all?

 

[zigg]

Torque converter lockup has been done by lots of guys(myself included)
It works well, but do not lock it up under 1,000rpm, or under 25 mph, 'cause the pressures aren't enough to hold the clutch locked in, and you'll wear it out in no-time.

you may find that when in the off position, the computer isn't happy when it can't see the lockup solenoid electrically, and at speeds over 35mph in OD, it may go in "limp" mode and the trans will shift very hard and the OD light will blink on/off.

If this happens, reset the computer by disconnecting the batteries for about 2 minutes, and then you'll have to re-figure the switch...

zigg

 

[MARQ2277]

That's a good question. First off, on the E4OD anyway, when you go into tow mode, you turn off the overdrive (by use of the switch on the dash). It is my understanding that the E4OD (mine anyway) locks up in the other gears now anyway. It just unlocks when you get on it, or slow down so much (so as to not stall out). In fact, according to my E4OD service manuel, one of the reasons you need to adjust the throttle sensor is, so the lock up knows where idle is. Also, if you look at the solenoid pack, on larger applications, this transmission will also lock up when using an exhaust brake.

Getting back to the question, one of the down falls of this transmission is it tries to shift into third gear and lock up at the same time. When it does, you get this long shift that drives me crazy.

When I have the lock up off, it does not shift and lock up, so you can get better shifts, and cleaner through gears performance.

When in lock up, so long as you are not in stop and go traffic, when in lock up, you don't get the torque converter slip, and up shifts, instead, you stay in lock up, and you don't have to up shift, and you have the potential of saving a lot of gas over time.

So long as you do not over heat the transmission (and by the way, the transmission has a built in temp sensor), you can tow in lock up, have the advantage of saving gas, only shifting one gear and not worrying about shifting and locking at the same time. The added bonus is the compression stopping power when coming to a stop while in lock up; like coming off of the free way. When it goes to third, second, and first, it acts just like a manuel transmission without using a clutch. And that is actually the sum of all things, having a manuel transmission gas and performance with no clutch.

 

[MARQ2277]

lock up converter

Yes you are correct, I found that out the first time out. I was on the phone telling my dad about this great setup, and came to a stop and foregot to unlock it. I was going to wire it, by using the solenoid methode, which you sent a false signal to the controler (by using a resister as a load), and afixed a diod light (which is a very good set up), but it does not bother me when the overdrive light blinks. I would rather keep it simple. Although, if you really want to be a rock star, figure out a way (via another relay and brake switch) to have the lock up disengage when the brake is on. But you would either have to reset it, or have a timed delay before locking back up, so you can be back above 25 mph, etc.

 

[GenLightening]

Yes you are correct, I found that out the first time out. I was on the phone telling my dad about this great setup, and came to a stop and foregot to unlock it. I was going to wire it, by using the solenoid methode, which you sent a false signal to the controler (by using a resister as a load), and afixed a diod light (which is a very good set up), but it does not bother me when the overdrive light blinks. I would rather keep it simple. Although, if you really want to be a rock star, figure out a way (via another relay and brake switch) to have the lock up disengage when the brake is on. But you would either have to reset it, or have a timed delay before locking back up, so you can be back above 25 mph, etc.

What if you installed another brake switch (Normally Open) that would feed the manual lockup side of your switch. That way when you applied the brake, the switch, which is closed with the brakes off, would open and shut off the lock up. It would then close again when you release the brakes. If you came to a complete stop you would need to flip the switch back to the auto postition or it would stall (or take off hard) when you released the brakes. Any opinions?

Or maybe have the brake switch after the manual switch, so it would go back to auto function with the brakes applied. You would still have to flip it back to manual before taking off again.

 

[MARQ2277]

Actually, you have a good point. And I did briefly think about using the brake, but I didn't go into it that much. At the time, I just wanted to get a switch on there so I could use it. But, now that it is on there, I could modify it, and add the brake switch, which I think would be great. Like you said, if you did come to a complete stop, just flip the switch till you got back above 25 mph or so. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I just took my truck out for a test run, and found something out that is way cool. In lock up, if you put the shift lever in 1st, and come to a stop, it will not stall, and it releases the converter. So, when you take off, just shift the lever either in 2nd, or back into drive, and it locks back up. No having to reach for the switch!!!!!!!

 

[sootman73]

i did this mod a few months ago. when you are towing a trailer you want the converter locked up as much as possible. having the direct drive like a manual is what will make them last longer. remember heat kills! the TC is the source of most of the heat in the tranny. i lock mine up right at the start and let it shift through 2nd, third and o/d. i also have a banks controller and most time let it go into limp mode so as to have max line pressure. goes away after about a week of driving if you keep it locked up right.

and if you lock it up at around 25 that would throw the rpms down pretty low because that is when 2nd gear starts. i know pretty much all the rpms and mph after getting used to driving with my setup.

problem with the brake switch is that you cant use the engine and the brakes to stop a heavy load. you might forget a few times right after you do the mod but after a month or so you wont even realize you are doing it. just like a clutch. i find myself asking myself if i locked or unlocked it at the last light!

and i've also noticed that when you are in third gear with it locked and you let off the throttle that the rpms will still drop off. make sure you are in tow mode or have it unlocked when you do this. if not the TC will make a lot of clicking noises that cant be good for it. just an FYI that i have noticed in the past few months.

its nice to have the lockup when sled pulling! no dropping clutch like a manual and then no heat soaked tranny when ur done! along with the wheel speed you need.

 

[sootman73]

I just took my truck out for a test run, and found something out that is way cool. In lock up, if you put the shift lever in 1st, and come to a stop, it will not stall, and it releases the converter. So, when you take off, just shift the lever either in 2nd, or back into drive, and it locks back up. No having to reach for the switch!!!!!!!

thats because the clutchs are doing the slipping. my truck wont do that like yours. i dont know why. i assume that it is just the same as the third gear effect i mentioned above.

 

[Ironman03R]

Does anyone know if lockup can be controled with a Baumann Controller?

 

[GenLightening]

Does anyone know if lockup can be controled with a Baumann Controller?

I believe you can. I think it was DSBlack (maybe?) that had his set up like that before something went seriously wrong with his truck. Okiegringo also did some tweaking with the Baumann.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15941&highlight=baumann

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9754&highlight=baumann

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16656&highlight=baumann

 

[Ironman03R]

Next question, does Baumann still give credits for referalls on orders? If so, WHO wants it when I buy one? Might be a few months, but I need to get it done.