Tilt Steering Question

big van

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So I climb into the van this morning & grab the steering wheel & it proceeds to tilt about 1" on the left side. I guess there's some sort of mechinism inside & the left side broke.:mad: My steering whee now moves up & down on the left side about 1-2" 's.
Anyone ever have this happen before or fix one like this? I guess i'll be ripping into this soon but wanted to make sure my steering wheel won't come off if the right side breaks. That wouldn't be good at 50mph!! :eek:
I wonder how much & how easy it will be to get the parts to fix. Ther van is an 87. Thanks for any help!
 

sassyrel

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there a roach to fix--remove the whole column to do so--and hope you didnt break a ton of stuff----might be better to buy a known good used column--and put your cyl assm in---toooo many people use the wheel to pull themselves in--a no-no---
 

big van

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I didn't want to hear that. I figured it was going to be a bear of a job.

Yeah I think the guy before me use to pull himself in with the steering wheel being 4x4 I think it was a little high for him.
 

F350farmboy

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That happened to my '89 f250 460....I was backing it into the barn and the whole steering wheel dropped into my lap!!! The latching mechanism broke so the wheel would go full range up and down freely. I had to remove the whole column and took it to a local auto recycler and he fixed it for me...cant remember the cost cause it was a few years ago...probably a little over $100....I cant remember. The steering wheel wont come off, I hope not, it should just do like what mine did. You'll still have steering....after you wet yourself!! :eek:

I use the steering wheel once and a while, but there isnt anything to grab onto, there's no "Oh sh*t!" handle on these trucks.
 

k_williams1982

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Mine will "drop" into my lap if I apply just a little too much pressure on it downward. Too broke to get a new used column right now, so I'm just dealing with it. Hopefully, it lasts long enough to get me by until I yank it out to replace it with a "normal" steering column when the ZF5 goes in it.
 

LCAM-01XA

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That's why I like my running boards, no need to pull myself on the steering wheel. But mine has some side to side play in it too, nothing bad or anything (yet), just annoying. IIRC there was something about the bearings going out, or something along those lines... Where does one get bearings for a steering column?
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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ALL THIS SOUNDS VERY FAMILIAR

Although mine (1985 = way past half-a-million miles) is not what I would consider dangerously floppy, and would most likely slide right through a "vehicle inspection", it has it's share of problems.

The first time it did this, back in 1998, I about did wet my drawers.

I had 42 used RR-ties (stacked seven across and six high, average wt. = 280 pounds) strapped on the truck-flat, middle of the night and dark as a dungeon, and was just setting into a fairly sharp curve at the approach to a very long steep grade, not going stupidly fast, but still pouring on the coal, with a semi fixing to meet me right in the curve.

I always keep my wheel at it's highest setting and NEVER adjust it down (except when replacing any one of it's now-five, or is it six, windshields; for some reason, having it all the way up interferes with some part of the windshield replacement procedure.)

With absolutely no warning, the wheel dropped plumb to the bottom, just at the point when my front-bumper was about even with the front-bumper of the semi.

That will get one's attention FAST; I did not "almost wipe out" or even come close, but a less composed individual could have easily gotten their neck broke.


I SELDOM ever hoist myself in by the wheel, only resorting to grabbing it when I feel that I am going to fall back out flat on my back.

Since that first episode, it will do it once in a blue moon, sometimes doing it three times in one trip, then maybe not doing it again for more than a year, sort of biding time so that it can better sneak up on you.

It hadn't done it in over a year, then just a couple days ago, I needed my low-to-the-ground cook-and-mechanical-assistant in the driver-seat to operate some in-the-cab function or other, while I observed whatever was taking place at the opposite end of said mechanism, not in the cab.

Needless to say, very feminine-like, she grabs ahold of the steering-wheel and gives it a mighty yank; the wheel immediately drops, she falls backwards out of the cab, I catch her, nobody catches me, and I warp the gravel (sizable number-FIVEs, not little sandy eights).



To cure the "no grab-handles" problem, I am going to fabricate/duplicate the really neat floor-to-dash-board custom-contoured entry-assist handle that I recently saw in a new VOLVO road-tractor that I had the misfortune to be required to drive.

This handle consisted of a contoured to fit length of what looked to be about 3/4-i.d. sch-40 pipe, with a big square flange bolted through the floor, and another bolted to the dash, up high by the windshield.

It had a second handle, of like construction, secured parallel to the seat-back, bolted to floor and rear cab-wall.

I hate a VOLVO truck, but I must say this was the easiest safest to enter truck-cab that I have ever been in.

I intend to fabricate/attach similar handles to both sides of my cab, as my age-challenged worn-out hips/knees father sometimes accompanies me to pure-bred cattle sales, and he just grabs and yanks at anything and everything on his way up into the seat, sometimes with damaging results.



As for the sudden-dropping column, I am either going to install a complete solid unit from either Flaming River or Borgeson, to compliment my Deluxe Borgeson shaft (I have some months ago posted a question whether anyone had already done this, but yielded no response); or, and I am leaning more along this route, I am going to retrofit a column/wheel from a long-nosed big truck, such that my ton-size truck's wheel will closer match the size and nearly parallel to the floor-board configuration of the big truck wheels.

The older big truck columns have genuine steel components and real U-joints; no brittle pot-metal and plastic in them.




I am also soon eliminating the switch-key mechanism from the column and installing the much more truck-like and far simpler to maintain dash-board switch-key, along with a toggle-overidden "push-to-start" button; reason being, the last few winters, on 20* or colder mornings, the key is somewhat sluggish to turn, warning me that most likely that silly impossible to get at actuator-rod is on the verge of catastrophic failure, likely at the most inconvenient time and place.

I am also ditching the column-lock feature, which in reality is just a useless inconvenience; I see nothing wrong with being able to steer when the keys are not in the truck; genuine thieves learned their way around them many years ago.
 

big van

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My wheel will stay where I put it, so it's not flopping up & down. But it does now have 1-2" sideways play on the left side. I figured it's all plastic & wanna be metal in there so if I push on the wheel to hard in any direction the rest will probably break.

I was praying I would be able to disassemble the column in place & rebuild, but it sounds like that's not an option. I'll drive carefully until I figure what's the best thing to do, since this is my daily driver.

Midnight, my ignition also was sluggish this winter. The relocation of the ignition to the dash sounds like a good idea. I had some older trucks & cars like that & never had a problem. Just like always they take a simple working idea & "upgrade it" with something that's works terrible & won't last as long.

Thanks guys!
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Midnight, my ignition also was sluggish this winter. The relocation of the ignition to the dash sounds like a good idea. I had some older trucks & cars like that & never had a problem. Just like always they take a simple working idea & "upgrade it" with something that's works terrible & won't last as long.


On real trucks, and on ALL sizes of trucks prior to about 1970, there was absolutely nothing contained within the steering-column except for the steering-shaft itself, no ignorant dimmer-switch, wiper-switch, cruise-control, turn-signals, hazards, head-light-switch, ignition-switch, horn, and on many now even the radio, plus neck-breaking air-bags.

The real reason for so much of this crap being contained within the column is so the vehicle manufacturer can out-source this work to some little non-union concern and, when they receive the pre-assembled/wired columns at the assembly-line, it is all simply plug-and-play; the same reasoning goes for front-wheel-drive engine/trans-axle rack-and-pinion assemblies (good only for causing wrecks and getting women and teenagers killed), and in-the-tank fuel-pumps with brittle plastic clip-on fuel-lines, all designed purely to eliminate union-paid time at the line, with actual safety and durability way down on the real list of priorities; many of the later '94 and up 3/4- and 1-ton
trucks now even come with disposable front hub units that are un-servicable/un-greasable, requiring that the whole bearing/hub/knuckle assembly be entirely replaced (and I have seen many of these lose an entire hub/tire-and-wheel while driving down the road); the same goes for the demise of the manual locking hub, in favor of solid hubs with a failure-prone vacuum-operated sliding sleeve that connects both front axles together when 4x4 is shifted (these assemblies require far less tedious piece-by-piece hand-assembly), but with the solid-hub system, both front-axle U-joints turn constantly, wearing out much quicker, causing more vibration and drivability issues, and the added resistance probably costs two-MPG.

I could go on and on and on.cookoo
 

LCAM-01XA

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To cure the "no grab-handles" problem, I am going to fabricate/duplicate the really neat floor-to-dash-board custom-contoured entry-assist handle that I recently saw in a new VOLVO road-tractor that I had the misfortune to be required to drive.

This handle consisted of a contoured to fit length of what looked to be about 3/4-i.d. sch-40 pipe, with a big square flange bolted through the floor, and another bolted to the dash, up high by the windshield.
I've been thinking of doing something like that, don't really need it myself but having it can't hurt, especially seeing how some ladies climb inside the cab just like your better half did.

As for the sudden-dropping column, I am either going to install a complete solid unit from either Flaming River or Borgeson, to compliment my Deluxe Borgeson shaft (I have some months ago posted a question whether anyone had already done this, but yielded no response); or, and I am leaning more along this route, I am going to retrofit a column/wheel from a long-nosed big truck, such that my ton-size truck's wheel will closer match the size and nearly parallel to the floor-board configuration of the big truck wheels.
Ya know, I'd like to have the wheel a bit more horizontal than the top position can provide, but nowhere near almost parallel to the floor. Retrofitting a column like that would be some major challenge tho, particularly cause the steering box ain't low enough below the cab floor level.

I am also soon eliminating the switch-key mechanism from the column and installing the much more truck-like and far simpler to maintain dash-board switch-key, along with a toggle-overidden "push-to-start" button; reason being, the last few winters, on 20* or colder mornings, the key is somewhat sluggish to turn, warning me that most likely that silly impossible to get at actuator-rod is on the verge of catastrophic failure, likely at the most inconvenient time and place.
Done did that an year ago, couldn't be happier :D
 

TLBREWER

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My wheel will stay where I put it, so it's not flopping up & down. But it does now have 1-2" sideways play on the left side. I figured it's all plastic & wanna be metal in there so if I push on the wheel to hard in any direction the rest will probably break.

I was praying I would be able to disassemble the column in place & rebuild, but it sounds like that's not an option. I'll drive carefully until I figure what's the best thing to do, since this is my daily driver.

Midnight, my ignition also was sluggish this winter. The relocation of the ignition to the dash sounds like a good idea. I had some older trucks & cars like that & never had a problem. Just like always they take a simple working idea & "upgrade it" with something that's works terrible & won't last as long.

Thanks guys!

It's been a while since I had one of my columns apart. If yours is the same as the 87-91 PU's, there are 2 little metal pins that are pressed into the column. Believe it or not, that's the pivot point. Sounds like one of yours broke. With the right tool, it's easy to replace...that is once you get to it. Without the right tool (Snap-on has 'em), it's an exercise in futility. If you've never had the column apart, it can be a little intimidating the first time, but once you get the hang of it...While you're in there, lube the rack that slides the ignition plunger when you turn the key. You'll be happier in the winter.:D

Tom
 

big van

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Thanks Tom. I 'm sure I can fix it myself just some insight from those who have gone before me is always helpful;Sweet!

I would think the columns couldn't be that different from a truck to a van. That is the internals. I'm sure outwardly they are different, but similar inside.

Do you know the name of the tool? I wonder if I could get it at Ford?

I would love to be able to do this in an afternoon some Sat. cause I don't really like driving it the way it is. I don't enjoy a wiggly steering wheel. It just doesn't
feel right.
 

TLBREWER

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You can definately do it in an "afternoon". I just went over to my local mechanic friends shop and told him what I was trying to do. He knew exactly what I needed and got it out of his toolbox. He let me use it for a couple hours and I took it back to him. Made life so much easier. I know it was a Snap-on tool, just don't remember the part number. That was a couple of years ago. It's just a little press, similar to a small C-clamp, that is specifically for column tilt pins.

Tom
 

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