Thoughts on possible injector problem

[Macrobb]

I'd assume fuel issues. Drain the fuel filter and fill with ATF(both to clean injectors and to get any possible water out).
Check the loop of rubber hose from the input side of the lift pump to the frame rail.

If the lift pump looks cruddy and old, replace it. They are cheap.

Return kit... I personally go with the cheapest ones possible, to prove that they work fine. Never had an issue. I get mine from DCP on Ebay for around $30.
Make sure to lube up the O-rings and caps with wheel bearing grease(NOT vasoline). Believe me, it works wonders.

 

[Spark]

Alright thanks for the tips. I am going to check some of those things tomorrow night and do a little more on Saturday and try and get the problem taken care of.. it is getting quite irritating to drive when you don't know if the truck is going to take off fine, or spit and sputter and take 2 mins to get to 25 mph. The lift pump is brand new but I'll check that rubber line to make sure it wasn't cracked when the new pump was put on

 

[Macrobb]

Take off fine or spit and sputter? Sounds like you might have clogging. Might want to use compressed air to back-flush the fuel line while you are checking/replacing the loop.

edit:
Just had a thought.
I see more than a few posts of this sort of problem right around this time of year.
I wonder if the issue is small bits of water in the tank freezing due to the cold temps and clogging up either the lines or the pickup in the tank.
When it's warmer, obviously the water would just end up in the water separator and not be a problem, but if it turns to ice... I wonder...

 

[tradergem]

Seems a lot of people don't realize how critical it is to keep enough anti-gel in their diesel when the temps get anywhere near freezing.
You can't fill up and go like it's a Gasser or you will end up with a truck that runs like crap if it will run at all.

I probably over due it with the Howes anti-gel or Power Service white bottle, but I have never had fuel problems in the winter either.
Just a curious observation, I noticed that when it got below -20*F my bottle of Howes anti-gel got a little cloudy looking but it didn't gel up.

 

[Macrobb]

Seems a lot of people don't realize how critical it is to keep enough anti-gel in their diesel when the temps get anywhere near freezing.
You can't fill up and go like it's a Gasser or you will end up with a truck that runs like crap if it will run at all.

Eh...that's what I do. Never had any issues.
The difference is that, at least around here, all the stations 'winterize' the diesel already when it gets cold - either with a mix of #1 and #2 or with an additive of some sort, blended at the pump.
As long as you are driving the rig and getting new fuel as the weather changes, you should be fine.

Now, there's nothing saying that adding an anti-gel additive is bad, and it definitely gives peace of mind... but it should be pre-blended so it doesn't freeze on you, when you buy it at the station.

 

[79jasper]

Just a curious observation, I noticed that when it got below -20*F my bottle of Howes anti-gel got a little cloudy looking but it didn't gel up.

Yep. I've seen someone way more knowledgeable than me say it needs diesel to not gel. Odd huh? A anti gel needs to be mixed with diesel to work. Lol

Also learned something else at the same time. I was under the understanding that if it gels, once it warns up, it'll be fine. Apparently that's not true. The wax drops out of suspension and doesn't remelt.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Spark]

I guess that makes more sense being that if you drive it for a long time, eventually the problem will go away. I was planning to dump some additive in it that I have laying around from the last diesel I had, but I wasn't that concerned cause I've never once had a problem with the fuel gelling around here. BUT I did just buy the truck and have no idea what the PO used for fuel, or for all I know it could have fuel lasting from summer still sitting in it. I wonder if I would be better off to just take a ride this weekend and get both tanks near empty and just drop them and clean them out and then blow through the system and then fill both back up with good fuel and additive and see if that does it

 

[Macrobb]

Dump a bunch of additive in there(like 2-5x the recommended dose) and then do your drive. A bit extra won't hurt anything.

 

[Spark]

I dumped quite a bit of Power Service in the tank before I started it for work today, and I have to say it ran better than it has so far, but like I said in previous posts I live very close to where I work so well see after work. Also popped the hood quick to see which caps I have for the fuel return (not sure if that matters) and the plastic caps, lines, and clips look like they are in very nice shape and were put on somewhat recently. so I'm going to hold off on ordering a kit for right now to see what this power service does to the symptoms first

 

[Spark]

Well back to sqaure 1. Just let the truck run and ran home for work and ran like complete **** there and back so I'll be looking for leaks, and putting a new water separator in after work tonight

 

[Joe Blow]

My nephew bought a brand new set of 7.3 idi injectors for a truck he bought that ended up having a cracked head and I ended up doing a cummins swap for him now he is parting out the 7.3. Let me know if anyone is interested or needs any parts.

 

[DrCharles]

I'm interested in a complete turbo setup for my non-turbo 7.3... is his truck a turbo?
(My truck was leaking some coolant between the head and the block. Turned out to have two significantly cracked heads! I elected to buy rebuilt head$ and keep it forever, only way to make it pay).

 

[Joe Blow]

Non turbo sorry

 

[Joe Blow]

If you want it to last I would not do a turbo. I know guys get away with low boost on them but the internals aren't built for 30psi

 

[Macrobb]

Yeah, and?
30 psi of boost (with fuel to match)in an IDI is probably somewhere around 350-400 HP to the wheels, over 400-450 at the crank. That's pushing the limits of N/A rods for sure, even after headstuds.

Thing is, you don't need much boost to make a signifigant jump in power - 15 psi will double the stock HP safely(with fuel turned up to match). This is also about the limit of the stock IP, and also about the max you will get out of a 'kit' turbo setup.

Remember, this isn't a Cummins whre you have 15 psi stock. It's N/A stock, so 15 is a big jump in power.