This does not sound good....

[Cruiseomatic]

Longer start time:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RaDrQe5rbys

Sounds/Behaves like this one: ( Starts at :30 secs.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVKlEKbRmBQ&index=29&list=WL

When time and money prohibit, I'm putting new cables on. Just that "skip" has me worried.

 

[riotwarrior]

Ok dont listen to us.....no worries

1. You are jumping with cables barely able to provide power to the glow plug system for one...those are likely 6 or 8 ga wire if you are lucky.

2. I see you have a temporary battery end on one cable...what does the rest of the cables look like...we can knly imagine....those goofy ends are not a long term repair.

3. If you are cranking like you are over and over it IS KILLING THE STARTER FOR SURE.

4. The symptom uou are depicting isnt worth gettkng excited about jnless it does the same thing with a GOOD starter GOOD cables and GOOD batteries. If you get it spinning fast it may not even show up.

5. If worried about compression then stop ******* around and do a compression test and leakdown test.

6. The sound on PS vid couod be a bad valve and likely is not bad rings...it is known here as exhaust chuff or kntack chuff or huff...depending on where it comes from obviously

Hope this helps....diagnose when it is in good operational order and condition or do a proper diagnosis... Or yee be chasing a blind duck around a barnyard trying to figure **** out..

JM2CW

BTW....I had slow starting issues too....sounded similar to yours....changed 3 starters and built new cables...added group 31 stud top batteries...this is the thread...**** spins like rocket now no more drag no more issues....
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...-101-Custom-battery-cables&highlight=Tech+101

Hope that helps you out.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Ok dont listen to us.....no worries

1. You are jumping with cables barely able to provide power to the glow plug system for one...those are likely 6 or 8 ga wire if you are lucky.

2. I see you have a temporary battery end on one cable...what does the rest of the cables look like...we can knly imagine....those goofy ends are not a long term repair.

3. If you are cranking like you are over and over it IS KILLING THE STARTER FOR SURE.

4. The symptom uou are depicting isnt worth gettkng excited about jnless it does the same thing with a GOOD starter GOOD cables and GOOD batteries. If you get it spinning fast it may not even show up.

5. If worried about compression then stop ******* around and do a compression test and leakdown test.

6. The sound on PS vid couod be a bad valve and likely is not bad rings...it is known here as exhaust chuff or kntack chuff or huff...depending on where it comes from obviously

Hope this helps....diagnose when it is in good operational order and condition or do a proper diagnosis... Or yee be chasing a blind duck around a barnyard trying to figure **** out..

JM2CW

BTW....I had slow starting issues too....sounded similar to yours....changed 3 starters and built new cables...added group 31 stud top batteries...this is the thread...**** spins like rocket now no more drag no more issues....
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...-101-Custom-battery-cables&highlight=Tech+101

Hope that helps you out.

SMH....I am listening to everyone. What I'm trying to get at is, Is the engine still "good" enough to spend the money on cables and whatnot? Sorry, Just been a long week.

 

[snicklas]

Ok.... watching your new video..... and the one you posted.... for one those are comparing apples to oranges in a way. A 7.3 IDI (Which is what you have) and a 7.3 PSD (The one in the other video) the only things they share is displacement and they both burn diesel.

Your is not spinning fast enough. PERIOD. Several have stated this above, either the battery cables are shot, or the starter is toast.... either way, that engine will never start turning that slowly. I am not hearing the skip that you are worried about like in the PSD video, and if you notice, that PSD is turning over much faster than your IDI is..... your IDI should be turning over as fast as the PSD. I don't hear anything that screams an issue at my while cranking.... don't hear a knock, or a tick.... so at least at the slow speed its turning over, everything sounds ok. At this point, before you can figure much else out, you MUST get that engine turning fast enough to start...... should be 300-400 rpm..... yours is no where close........

Listen to the starter on this one....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kp4pJknmziM

It needs to turn over fast like this......

 

[riotwarrior]

SMH....I am listening to everyone. What I'm trying to get at is, Is the engine still "good" enough to spend the money on cables and whatnot? Sorry, Just been a long week.

Point is YOU ARE NOT LISTENING...

Cant determine what you want THE WAY IT IS....

To add to this thread...with the engine turning over as slow as it is; you cannot actually do a proper compression test and get repeatable decent results.

Leak down fer sure...but not a compression test.

BTW...

7.3 PS about 17:1 compression
7.3 IDI about 21:1 compression

That being said it takes a horrific amount of energy to spin and light these off comparred to a ps.

 

[79jasper]

Cylinders are probably rusted too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[IDIoit]

if you want a definitive answer,
click this link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-5609-Cy...hash=item2c9e93774f&item=191639025487&vxp=mtr

 

[homelessduck]

The fast/slow cranking doesn't necessarily mean you have any dead cylinders. That is the sound of a struggling starter because it is dying or isn't getting enough juice. It is impossible for us to tell you if the engine is worth spending money on just from the videos you posted. Unfortunately it is going to take a little bit more money to get it to a stage where it can be better diagnosed..

 

[riotwarrior]

if you want a definitive answer,
click this link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-5609-Cy...hash=item2c9e93774f&item=191639025487&vxp=mtr

Then you need to add the 30 buck adapter to a diesel compression tester...dont ask me how I know

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Hey Cruiseomatic: I can't see whether you have a manual transmission or not, but if you have a suitable tow vehicle, you could try to tow it and bump start it. If it's an auto, you've got to spend the cash and get some cables and a starter. It's no fun to throw some money at what could be a damaged engine, but the truth is if you swap an engine you'll need new cables and a starter. Have you looked in the salvage yards for a decent set of cables? It's a long shot, but you might find a decent set to swap.

Good luck

 

[FordGuy100]

I thought Calvin condemed this engine to water intrusion.

 

[towcat]

I thought Calvin condemed this engine to water intrusion.

hasn't "sunk in" yet.
hate to see what the bottom end looks like now that he's put water through the oiling system by cranking it so long.
if these two photos aren't an indication there are some serious problems with this motor, I don't know what is.

 

[icanfixall]

Any diesel starts by heat. Not compression. I realize some are wondering where I'm going with this. Heres how a diesel starts. These are very high compression engines. When you compress air it heats up. Diesel requires 942 degrees or so to ignite. So here we go compressing the air in the cylinders making it hot. Now the point is the FASTER we turn the engine over... The hotter that compressed air gets. Thats all simple psychics. So a fast cranking engine is going to make more heat from compression than a slow cranking engine. Now realize we can slowly hand crank out engines so slow that we do not make any heat. Now how is an engine going to start cranking slow. Then finally a slow cranking engine is killing the starter because of low volts reaching the starter. That creates very high amps draw and that means heat. Smoking a starter is not fun. I smoked one many years ago. I watched the cold glow plugs till the dash light went out. Started cranking and by the 3rd rpm it started but a huge puff of smoke leaked out of the fender to hood gap. I was picking up horses from a show and that engine ran for 8 1/2 hours before I got home. The owner was wanting to socialize and take pics and after 6 hours of that I said I was leaving with... Or without her and her damn horse. I'm sure she still hates me to this day.......

 

[riotwarrior]

Well *****...if its that engine...suppose then time fer reconsideration....too many threads going on same damn truck...

 

[Cruiseomatic]

If there is too many threads on it, delete some of them. Water has already been drained out. And hell, I already found coolant in the oil when I drained it so this engine is trash from either blown head gasket or cracked head. Maybe even cavatation. I already condemned it as soon as I saw the oil/coolant mix. So, once I drained everything out, Put 4 quarts of clean diesel in the crank, 1 bottle of heet, 4 quarts of rotella 15w40, and a bottle of MMO and trans fluid in each cylinder. Last time this pos was tagged was 06/07. I'm sure it got rain through the intake. Back when I was asking all about this hooptie I was trying to get second opinions basically on whether or not to keep going with this thing or cut losses and move on from it. But, After talking with a couple of members, I decided to keep it and drive it until either that engine completely dies or the wheels fall off. I've seen diesels do some weird things under even weirder circumstances. Korean liquor is a wonderful fuel substitute for a GM 6.5...Which, once this 6.9 does give up is either getting scrapped and swapped out with either a 6.5 or cummins or maybe a 7.3 since they're much more common. And when the C6 goes is most likely going to get replaced with a manual.