Take a chance...evac & charge or replace compressor?

[Blind Driver2]

My A/C has been warming up a bit over the last few weeks. Last year, before the rally, I charged the system using R134 from a can with a gauge. The AC system had R134 fitting over the old R12s. I don't think the gauge was accurate. I started leaking oil out of one of the large o-rings from the compressor body. I have a nice spray mark under my hood

I'm thinking about taking the truck out for a evacuate and charge just to put things where they should be. Pulling a vacuum on the system will let me know if I have leaks. If there are none, I'm thinking about just washing the oil off from under the hood and checking on it occasionally.

The receiver/drier still has the dealer tag on it. The compressor is unknown.

I don't use the AC much except on longer trips. When I use it locally, AC is on and the windows are down


Any opinions about how long the o-ring will last since it has been leaking oil?
The vacuum test should tell me more.

If the compressor gets replaced, the drier will get it too.

 

[sassyrel]

My A/C has been warming up a bit over the last few weeks. Last year, before the rally, I charged the system using R134 from a can with a gauge. The AC system had R134 fitting over the old R12s. I don't think the gauge was accurate. I started leaking oil out of one of the large o-rings from the compressor body. I have a nice spray mark under my hood

I'm thinking about taking the truck out for a evacuate and charge just to put things where they should be. Pulling a vacuum on the system will let me know if I have leaks. If there are none, I'm thinking about just washing the oil off from under the hood and checking on it occasionally.

The receiver/drier still has the dealer tag on it. The compressor is unknown.

I don't use the AC much except on longer trips. When I use it locally, AC is on and the windows are down


Any opinions about how long the o-ring will last since it has been leaking oil?
The vacuum test should tell me more.

If the compressor gets replaced, the drier will get it too.

just because the comp is leaking,,doesnt mean you need a drier.....years ago,,they used dessicant in hte driers,,and that would eventually break up and plug the drier,, they havent had that in them for some time now. go get a used comp,,that aint leaking,,and use it.. the comp are the same one,,thats used on tons of diff Ford vehicles,,,just the pulley setup is diff..wayyy easy to change... www.car-part.com

 

[opusd2]

I'm always a fan of once I open up the system, I like to change out O-rings, drier, orifice (cheap, and you are right there), especially if the compressor is to be changed. When a compressor burns out that contaminated oil gets throughout the system and causes damage. A drier is just cheap insurance. Besides, open a system up in a humid environment and that moisture magnet needs a lot more vacuuming right off. It's always easier to just do it all when the system is open, that's all I'm saying.

 

[RLDSL]

if the seal was leaking, the comp is a gonner, dont mess with used or repainted, oops, i mean rebuilt, just get a new one, they cost less than repainted ones and the repainted ones generally wont last any longer than a boneyard one
also, if you have used a r134a adapter on a ford accumulator, for some reason, they have a real lousy fit on most. if you have the extra hose, charge it withan r12 hose off a manifold gauge and cap it off, and if you eveb have to take it to a shop or sell the thing, put the r134a adapter on, becaus e those things are notorious for causing a leak at the valve on these things thradapter center cores go in too far most of the time on that ford specific accumulator if you have to use it to charge, remove it right after to keep from loosing your charge