Super Fridgid Temps = Ign Key Tough to Turn!

[HammerDown]

Those of us that live where the Winter temps go well below freezing know how our Ign Key can be a SOB to turn.
You get that worried feeling;
*will my Actuator snap? (pot metal piece in the steering column). PITA to change out, especially w/tilt wheel. Mine last snapped in 2009 and it was freezing outside...thankfully it happened in my driveway.
or
*will my key switch snap? (I should carry a spare-easy swap) mine snapped at the bottom tab, I was out and about, thankfully it snapped in the 'RUN' position so I jumped the Fenderwell mounted starter relay to engage the Starter-fire the engine and get home.

Question > > > aside from digging-in and taking all the moving/sliding parts apart, cleaned and re-greased, is there anyway to make the Key turn easier, anyone ever maybe pull the Steering Wheel and get in there with a WD40 straw and spray away to get things easier to move?

The first dead-cold start is the worst...I even though about wrapping the steering column with an electric heating pad!
I try to park so the Sun is on the column, trust me, it helps...but we're getting minus 20 degree temps.

 

[79jasper]

I forget what was used, someone recommended spraying something in there.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[HammerDown]

I forget what was used, someone recommended spraying something in there.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Spraying in where...where the Key enters or???
I'll flood the SOB with WD40 if I thought it would get to the gummed-up parts.

 

[Hydro-idi]

I would try something like WD-40 or marvel mystery oil. That’ll loosen it up.
Or wrap a hot hand towel around ignition.

 

[Macrobb]

Just so you know, the switch is right up on top the column underneath the dash, and the rod the key activates goes down the top of the steering column.

After getting fed up with it on one truck, I just cut that rod and bent it up a little into a tab, so to start the truck I push that rod down, pull it up(along the column) to stop.

Assuming you don't want to go that far, it's totally possible to just pull the switch free(2 nuts; 1/2"? socket IIRC) and let it hang down below the column. Use a pick or bent screw-driver to actuate the switch when you want to turn it off/on/start. Then, you can always reinstall it when you fix the column or it warms up.

 

[snicklas]

If its getting sticky, DO NOT FORCE IT!!!!!!! The one in my 88 was stiff when I picked it up in the 30's. A few days ago, when it was near 10, it was really hard to turn, and I made the comment to my son, we need to put in a push button until we can take this column apart. It was fine between off and run, but the turn to start was really tight. He was headed to a buddies heated garage to swap the starter. The next morning when he was headed to work, that pot metal POS broke. Fortunatly it stopped in the run position, so we just unhook the batteries when we shut it down, till it warms up.

If you can get the cab warmed up so the plastic isn't cold and brittle, you might be able to skin the column and spray something on that rod and loosen it up. I would say if you can't, I would turn it to run, and jump the solenoid, don't push your luck with the metal rod.

 

[HammerDown]

Just so you know, the switch is right up on top the column underneath the dash, and the rod the key activates goes down the top of the steering column.

After getting fed up with it on one truck, I just cut that rod and bent it up a little into a tab, so to start the truck I push that rod down, pull it up(along the column) to stop.

Assuming you don't want to go that far, it's totally possible to just pull the switch free(2 nuts; 1/2"? socket IIRC) and let it hang down below the column. Use a pick or bent screw-driver to actuate the switch when you want to turn it off/on/start. Then, you can always reinstall it when you fix the column or it warms up.

I'm well aware of what I put in bold...nothing is broken YET and the actual Ignition Switch isn't what gets gummed-up. It's the actuator and other moving parts up higher in the column.
I'm just trying to think of/or 'if' I can get in there with a WD40 straw to loosen-up the gummed-up moving parts.
I always wanted to install a push button start button or momentary switch...but during the Summer and it turns easily I always seem to forget, until the sub-freezing temps hit.

 

[HammerDown]

If its getting sticky, DO NOT FORCE IT!!!!!!! The one in my 88 was stiff when I picked it up in the 30's. A few days ago, when it was near 10, it was really hard to turn, and I made the comment to my son, we need to put in a push button until we can take this column apart. It was fine between off and run, but the turn to start was really tight. He was headed to a buddies heated garage to swap the starter. The next morning when he was headed to work, that pot metal POS broke. Fortunatly it stopped in the run position, so we just unhook the batteries when we shut it down, till it warms up.

If you can get the cab warmed up so the plastic isn't cold and brittle, you might be able to skin the column and spray something on that rod and loosen it up. I would say if you can't, I would turn it to run, and jump the solenoid, don't push your luck with the metal rod.

She's been plugged-in for two hours...like you stated above; turning to RUN position isn't the problem, turning to START is when things break. I may hook-up a long wire triggered remote starter off of the Solenoid.

 

[pafixitman]

Last Sunday mine started fine. Monday not so much and the key was very stiff. Last night after 4 hours on the block heater a few ounces of 911 and the jump box she started. Thanks for mentioning this Ray! I guess my column tear down will happen sooner rather than later!

Tomorrow is supposed to be even colder. I'll try to throw a heater in the cab for a bit.

 

[79jasper]

Spraying in where...where the Key enters or???
I'll flood the SOB with WD40 if I thought it would get to the gummed-up parts.

Just pop the tumbler out, then spray inside.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Cubey]

Mine gets a little sticky when it’s very cold. I put grease all in there when I replaced the actuator arm thing.

My auto gear shifter is stiff and doesn’t always go into N to start on the first try (Bad NSS) because the nylon bushing is cold.

 

[Mulochico]

I have found that using any oil based lube on locks or actuators will eventually gum it up worse. Clean well with brakekleen or electrical connection cleaner and lube with powdered graphite works the best. Oil based (liquid in general) attracts dust, lint, etc and clogs up the works.

 

[tradergem]

Would a dry silicone spray work? The kind that goes on wet but then dries to leave a dry silicone film.

 

[jwalterus]

Best lube for.................. well............ everything that gets sprayed!

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0608306

I use it on my ignition, hinges, and latches every oil change.
That stuff is literally slicker'n snot.

 

[HammerDown]

With the Tilt Wheel I got in between the joints and also the WD40 straw went in deep into the column at the Turn Signal Arm...gave it a good squirt while I was turning the Key back and forth and that really helped matters. If you try this better put an old towel on the floor to catch the dripping WD40.
Tonight will be the coldest at 1 degree with wind chill/real-feel -20 degrees.
I only run the block heater for two hours and that instantly lights her right-up.
I did put a little Electric heater in the Cab but just didn't trust it (fear of a fire).
My father has a 1998 Ford Windstar Minivan and his key turns like it was Summer (same with my 81 Corvette)...go figure.