Stock 6.9 water seperater servicing

Can30Diesel

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Hey all

I'm hoping this hasn't been talked about yet. I'm looking at my old stock 6.9 water seperater and wondering if these things come apart at all to be rebuilt. I'd go with an aftermarket one if I were richer but if I can revive this one at a fraction of the cost I may as well check to see if its worth it.

Thoughts?
 

stumiister

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I have mine bypassed and I have been to Racor makes a filter that has a water separtor built into it that will screw on in place of the stock fuel filter. I just dont rememer the racor number.
The racor filter has a regular filter then on the botom of the filter is a plastic bowl that traps the water.
 

79jasper

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Actually there is a diy on rebuilding it.
Basically just replacing some o-ring's.

I'll see if I can find it.

Edit: Well I can't find it.
You can also replace your filter head with the later 7.3 style.
I have one with the separator bowl for the bottom laying around, if you'd be interested.
 
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79jasper

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I found this. "The one weakness with the 6.9L is the water-fuel separator. The bottom valve tends to leak---fuel out and air into the fuel system. A new unit costs about $200 new, and there is no guarantee how long it will last. It is a poor design which was fixed later on. I have a $3.50 fix for the problem. Add a 3 inch piece of fuel line on the drain nipple with a stainless steel hose clamp. At the end of the 3 inch piece of fuel line place a small 1/4 inch brass needle valve (the type used for evaporative cooler water lines) onto the end (with a stainless steel hose clamp). To the other end, place fuel line which is weaved through the firewall and ends up sticking out 1 inch into the drivers side wheel well. Make sure you attach the second, longer piece of fuel line with a hose clamp to the valve. In order to attach the fuel line to the water seperator, the separator assembly must be removed from the vehical and drained. In order to drain the water out from the separator, simply open the brass valve, and then pull the ring on the water separator. The water/ diesel mix will drain as before. Close the brass needle valve, then let the separator ring seat itself. This will allow diesel to fill the void in the fuel line, to ensure there is no air in the fuel system to cause rough running in the future. The operation is done."

But I was reading an o-ring at the top leaks around the "pull ring shaft."
 

Can30Diesel

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Thanks! I also found a post from Mel explaining how it sort of comes apart. Seems the plunger assembly unbolts and that should be enough to get a start rebuilding the seperater.
 
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