Here comes Mr. Downer ( : < )
First off, what is "low compression?" Did you do both wet and dry tests? Did you do a CLT (Cylinder Leakdown Test... the tester isn't all that expensive, Northern Tools).
Probably a waste of time and money but my saying that has never talked anyone out of pouring some type of snakeoil into their engines. Am just about to hit 45 years of messing with engines, 20 of that as an ASE certified master tech, and I've never seen any "magic in a can." Once in a while, I've see something that shows a glimmer of some action... and that usually in a maintenance role rather than a "rescue-me-from-spending-money role." Solvents don't put metal back onto worn parts. Any rig that's been halfway decently maintained and driven often isn't likely to have stuck rings. I've rebuilt hundreds of engines and the only ones I ever saw with stuck rings were either seized with rust, very poorly maintained or with piston damage. If the oil has been changed regularly and the right oil is used, it prevents stuck rings from occurring. If you are bound and determined, the best way to attack it is via an oil additive from the crankcase side and then a fuel additive simultaneously. Kreen is a good product that can be used in the oil and the fuel. Like anything that really works, it costs. I don't have any personal experience with Auto RX but it appears to do what is advertised. The metric I would use as to whether there is much likelihood of success is the history of the vehicle. If it has a good recent maintenance history but has lots of miles, it isn't likely to help IMO. If you just got it and you can tell the engine is sludged up from poor maintenance... maybe. Over time, fresh oil will clean an engine up as well.