Rust on bottom of cab

reklund

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Being a lifelong resident of New Mexico, I figured that my truck would forever be rust free. While washing the truck this evening, I noticed 3 or 4 rust spots coming through the paint on the bottom of the cab. The rust in on the extended-cab portion, on the passenger side. Right now, it's just small paint bubbles and very very slight rust discoloration. I'd like to fix this problem before it gets much bigger for sure. What is the right way to fix it?

I can't even tell where the moisture is entering the cab, but it must be from either the extended cab window, or inside somehow it seems. I can't see where this area is exposed from underneath the truck...

I've got favors at the body shop- and I'm sure they can fix it cosmetically, but I want it sealed up so it doesn't happen again. Do I need to gut the interior and seal it from the inside somehow? Is there a way to install some drains so that moisture and debris won't collect inside that panel?

Suggestions Please!

Ryan
 

Agnem

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I've noticed this on a lot of extended cabs. I too blame the window. I don't see how it could come from anything else. Best bet is to cut out the affected area and weld new metal in. It's the only way to keep from doing it every couple of years.
 

colotow

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there is a rust treatment, you can get it at autobody suppliers. it chemically bonds to the rust, neutralizes it, and leaves a coating to protect from more. it can be welded thru, and painted over. i use alot of it on the inside of new door and fender panels, seems to work good. i also have painted the entire floor of an older truck, inside the cab, under the carpeting on a 65 chevy i used to have, kept that one 10 years, and i think it's still running around denver
 

TLBREWER

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Ryan

It's back on Stormi's truck too...in force! I ground all of it out last summer before the paint and fiberglassed it. Well it's back. I'll be getting the patch panels and cutting the old out. Unfortunately, it probably won't be this summer. Unless you want to parctice on mine.:D

Panels are $49.95 each from LMC and cover more than is needed. Of course on yours. I can't imagine that it is rust through. I'll bet it's just surface rust under the paint.

And yes Mel is correct. The moisture comes from the extended cab windows.:puke:

Tom
 

towcat

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Is this happening on the passenger side?
Usually that is the side that gets the water trapped first.
there is some drain openings down there but they do get plugged fast from dust and stuff. Also, another poin of water entry is the cargo light. the gasket gets beat up from the sun and lets water in easily. the water has to go somewhere......usually to the lowest point of the cab....yup right there-cuss
 

Exekiel69

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Mine gets water IN from the sliding rear window on My CC, I believe this is the seal leaking. Is there any replacement seal/molding for this? Where?

Ryan I know how You feel, last year I sanded it polished it and Bond it, I hope I did a good job. As Mel said it is necessary to R&R the metal. Thank God for the replacement panels.:love:
 

dancrowley

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Cab Rust

Reklund, After much researching and the help from an old time bodyman and doing a complete restoration on my 1984 F-250HD pickup including both cab corners and the back of the cab and floor area, I think I have learned how to do it the right way. First I would determine how bad the rust is by grinding or sand blasting the all the paint down to bare metal both outside and inside of the cab corner area. Once that is done you can tell if you need to replace or repair the panel. Most of the time it is easier to cut out the panel just above the rusted area and put in a repair panel. I got my panels from a company called TABCO. They were made of a thicker metal and I was very pleased with them. Just if you do use them tell them you want heavy gauge panels. Rather than use the whole new panel I cut off the botton of the panel just above the rusted area so that I would have some solid metal to weld to. After the new panel was all welded in place I painted the inside area with a product called POR15 and filled the seam with AB epoxy also from POR15 and then another coat of POR15. Although expensive both are excellent products and have been recommended by many magizines. I hope this helps you and if you want I will try to post some before and after pictures of my repair job. Dan
 

reklund

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Thanks for all the tips guys- I'll get some POR15 in there after the exterior work is completed for sure. The truck spent lots of time sitting in a covered patio in a dusty area before I got it- I suspect that theres some fine dust collected in there that holds the moisture in place. I'm hoping that a little shop-vac action will clean most of it out, and I can finish it off with some compressed air before I seal everything up. I'm going to try to get it to my painter after the 4th of July, and I'll post up the results then.

Ryan
 

bucholzi

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Question is: how does it look on the inside? Just did both sides on my extended cab and I had to a severe cleanup on the inside before I could weld back in new panels.

Sorry about the quality of the phonepix.
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Edit: Oh, first post; haven't I posted here before?!? Well, Hi folks.
 

Agnem

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Welcome to the site! Nice pics, and nice weld job. Are you a professional? Not everybody has a spot welder.
 
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