Overheating 84 6.9 non turbo. No flow. Metal flakes, metal chunks

84diesel6.9nonturbo

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The coolant does not flow at all when hot or cold. It will OH at idle wothout driving it. The belt to to the alternator is loose and wobbling on the bottom side only when running. Otherwise it is tight and shouldnt wobble around on one side only all crazy. I replaced the thermostat. I was (Not aware of the ball bearing bypass in the thermostat housing so that could be clogged up now) the therm had black rubber ring on it( i took that off as it didnt fit right with it on. (The bottom of the thermostat has molded black rubber around it (not removable)... i thought that was strange. The guy at AZone said its normal. ) i have what looks like coper flake in the radiator. I was going to buy a new water pump since the thermostat didnt do anything. But, can i rod out the radiator core on this truck first to see if its clogged up? Some people say this radiator isnt one you can rod out? One reason i want to do this is because there was little metal chunks caught up in the therm housing under the thermostat itself when i took out the old one. And! It had a copper ring inside too!! A piece of the orig failed thermostat i assume. But the radiator looks pretty dang clean inside so do the cooling hoses.... any ideas? Im on a negative, borrow money-budget untli i can fix it and tow my tractor so i can make some more money moving dirt.

Thanks!
 

no mufflers

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first of all DO NOT buy a thermostat from the parts store, that is a motor craft only part, I would recommend the same for the water pump. what gauge are you going by for temp? I would not trust the factory gauge, an aftermarket gauge is very helpful for providing some real numbers. please fill in your signature with the details of your truck.
 

84diesel6.9nonturbo

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So the t stat i bought from a zone didnt work. I pulled it out and it flowed great. I replaced the water pump. Flushed the radiator. Flushed the heater core. I found another metal chunk stuck in the line to the heater core. A bunch of sandy, rusty, metalic junk got flushed out of everything. The old pump made a few little pits in the t chain cover from metal chunks getting caught up in the pump blades im guessing. Thanks for the help!!
 

Koch13351

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Sounds like some radiator stop leak was used on your truck at some point. It usually consists of a solution of suspended metal flakes that are added to the coolant to seal pinholes. What doesn't go to work sealing holes just floats around the cooling system aimlessly. It's possible that it has coagulated, causing the chunks. Flush the entire cooling system thoroughly, for a good period of time. Then pull the radiator and flip it upside down and back flush it with a hose for a good period of time. The small core ports in the radiator act like a filter for large obstructions and they end up blocking ports and the radiator can't do its job.
 

riphip

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Also, I use the Dayco 17425 belt from Rockauto instead of the long belt that goes around crank, WP & Alt. #17425 goes around WP & Alt, eliminating the long belt flop w/o having to put an idler in line of the long belt.
Rockauto.com has this belt for about $10.
Rick
 

84diesel6.9nonturbo

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I have 3 belts. My ac pully is deleted. 1 goes from alt to vac pump, 1 goes around ps pump, fan and crank, 1 goes around alt, fan and crank. The vac pump is starting to chugg. Is that why my brake peddle is stiff and hard shifts at low rpm??? Thanks again!
 

no mufflers

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yes, the brakes are powered by vacuum and the transmission needs vacuum to shift.
 

84diesel6.9nonturbo

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I replaced the brake booster and master cyl because a local diesel mechanic at orangevale diesel said it had enough vacuum pressure. The brakes are a lot better now. My long belt is still tight but flopping wild. Any ideas??? I want a cheap used replacment fan because mine is slightly bent. What direction do you turn the vacuum fuel injection valve thing to soften the shifting? Do i adjust it a little to the front or back? Thsnks again
 

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