New here

[jasonhughes]

Hey guys,

Don't currently own an IDI yet, but I'm looking to get one withing the next 5-6 months assuming everything goes as planned. I've always loved the look of the 83-86 Ford trucks so that's pretty much the whole reason I'm going for the 6.9. As far as I'm concerned all the manufacturers just put out piles of crap so I'm not too picky when it comes to brand, really just depends on how it looks to me (my whole drive on buying my bronco was i wanted a convertible truck that would still offer me some shade, pretty much only left the bko)

I currently am in tech school in Sacramento California for Automotive, Diesel Industrial and Ford FACT. I'll be going to work for a Mack and Volvo dealer down in Oakland starting in early July. I love diesel and everything that has to do with it so getting a diesel pickup is liken a dream come true for me.

I'm really just here for knowledge at this point. I want to know everything i can about the 6.9 before i commit myself to buying one. I also need to figure out if i want a 250 or 350, TTB or SA, common things to look for when i start actually looking at ones to buy, single cab or extended cab, ones that have already had the turbo swap and ones that haven't, wastegate or non-wastegate, whether I want a 3.73 or 4.10 ratio, manual or automatic.

I've got a 91 bronco with a TTB on 37's that I wheel the hell out of so i know the downfalls and strengths of the TTB (granted broncos are coiled not leaf sprung).

My main reason for getting a diesel is to tow said bronco to the mountains or tow my family members boats or show cars, stuff like that. I'm getting a diesel to put it to work like it should be worked.

So like I said, I'm here primarily to learn right now. going to be doing a lot of lurking and reading for the next few months and I'm definitely excited to be a perspective new owner of an IDI.

Thanks,
Jason

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum Jason. There is so much help just waiting for the questions from new members and old alike. Now some information about what to watch out for. First I will recommend not buying an early 83 truck if it still has the original engine in it. those early blocks had a problem with cracking around the block heater area. they also had other weak areas that were fixed in the late part of 83 or early 84 year. Knowing the block numbers will really help us to advise you on what year plus that number can tell us if the engine is actually a 6.9 or a 7.3 engine. Visually these engines all look alike. Many of the parts are used on both size engines both internal and external. So don't just believe what someone is trying to sell you. I don't think you will find any trucks with a set of 3.73 gears unless they were installed as a custom deal. Most all trucks came with 3.55 or 4.11 gears. Usually the tab on the differancial cover tells you that information. Just needs a wire brush to clean off the road drit to read it. Many members like the 5 speed standard trans called the ZF 5 speed because it has a tall 5th gear like an overdrive. If you find a auto trans it will be the great C6 trans but... The torque converter does not lock up so it will be screaming at 65 mph with 4.11 gears. Even that can be changed by adding a gear vendors overdrive. A non turbo 6.9 or 7.3 will tow fine but not win any fast trips records. they pull steady and long. Just not fast. Asking the seller how many miles are on the injection pump and injecters is important. Its felt the fuel system lasts around 125,000 miles. Some get more and some get less. Caution must be used when buying thes eparts because o the horrible ebay sellers and others ripping off new customers. Please read the Hall of Shame fourm so you don't get taken. Many like the crewcabs because more riders will have a place to sit. Others will chime in with their thoughts so hang around and ask questions.

 

[jasonhughes]

Thanks for the welcome man! One of the instructors I had at the tech school was actually one of the R&D guys for the ford/IH 6.9 mating and he did mention to avoid the earlier blocks. One thing he really pushed on was finding one with a lower ratio for the differential(s) to keep it in its powerband. He said they fought like hell with ford but ford was pushing for fuel economy.

Thanks for letting me know about the fuel system estimate. I'll keep it in mind in my series of questions to ask the owners and when im looking at their work receipts.

More than likely ill be buying my parts from either left coast diesel or devil mountain diesel. I tend to not do so well with online parts.

Im pretty familiar with the zf transmissions. I was strongly considering putting one in the bronco but decided it was easier to crawl with an automatic. If I do choose the manual route ill probably lean more towards the zf than the 4 speed (which I believe is a t4? I could be thinking jeeps though...)

THanks again man!
Jason

 

[79jasper]

Mel (Agnem) here owns Conestoga diesel, which is a great place to get the injection parts from.
Also Russ (Typ4), he sells injection stuff, after market cams, rebuilds turbo's, etc...

I would NOT buy another extended cab. Single cab or crew cab.

You may already know, but I believe the zf's didn't come out until 87 or 88.

 

[jasonhughes]

Thanks man!

There were a few 86's on craigslist that SAID they had zf's but who really knows how accurate some people are. I've only seen them mounted on the 87 and up body styles, but its always possible someone did a conversion.

Reading up on the Moose fuel parts now!

Why would you not suggest an extended cab?

Thanks!
Jason

 

[Ruger_556]

If you're going to leave it stock I'd look for a 250 with the TTB because they ride and handle a lot nicer than a SA. Just change all the bushings first thing and you won't have any trouble with it. I'd look for a 4 spd manual with 3.55's. Also check the input yoke on the rear axle because Ford had problems with the yoke nut backing off and wearing out the splines. There's an updated yoke but it's almost as expensive as swapping in a newer rear end.

 

[058hammer]

Welcome to the site.

 

[Devon Harley]

I would suggest buying an ex. Cab or cc. Not a reg cab. I read on here the other day they have a more beffy frame powersmoker posted the frame dim. An there was a good difference. I would say the the reason not to buy one is alot t of us have one.

 

[79jasper]

Reason being is the back seat is too small for even a child. Now imagine a full size adult.. Not happening......

 

[riotwarrior]

Hi Jason,

Welcome to OB, nice that your here checking in and working on research for your truck. Nice to hear about the Ford IHI marry that your instructor mentioned to you.

As for trucks, well it's all a matter of personal choice of course.

I'm 6' tall and though my seat does go back..I'm longing for a a slight rake so my Reg cab SUCKS! I'll be switching to a super cab asap on my RC LB frame, subsequently I'll be a SC SB truck....MY choice.

Now as for front diffs, again matter of personal choice. I would if I can help it NEVER run a TTB in a 3/4 or 1T truck with a diesel. Just too many parts to wear out. D60 all the way.

For a light duty 3/4 ton say with 5.0 and semi float rear axle ya but that TTB is not a nice setup IMHO

Transmissions, well again I've got a good ZF5sp now and it's the diesel close ratio one, which is what I could get. However I'm longing for a S47 Wide ratio as these engines can take it. That provides a deeper 1st gear and reverse as well. Great for backing up loads and such.

The 4sp for diesel is a T18 Fully synchro 1-4 close ratio box as well. However one caveat! You can add in a Under or Overdrive in front of them, called a Ranger by advanced adapters, this allows you to split the gears too.

On another note for the 4sp trucks, IIRC a T19 Wide ratio will bolt to the same bell housing the T18 has as will a NP435 both available with deep 1st and reverse gears but wide ratio and that 3-4 splits a ******!

If getting a 6.9 and going turbo I'd strongly encourage a set of head studs for certain! If 7.3 studs are a good measure, and with mild boost not required.

Turbos come up here in Marketplace for sale from time to time. There are a few different ones too, ATS, Hypermax, Banks, and custom stuff that people have created.

Now as for the Bronco...it's not real unless there are pics to prove it

I too have a Bronco, but it's parked...awaiting a 7.3 E4OD transplant and will remain essentially stock with maybe 33's so I can have a winter driveable vehicle for Superwifey

Take some times to check out the FAQ's and Tech section and sadly as Gary mentioned Hall of shame. We don't want to see you waste money on bad vendors.

Lots of help here

Again welcome to OB

Al

 

[riotwarrior]

Also check the input yoke on the rear axle because Ford had problems with the yoke nut backing off and wearing out the splines. There's an updated yoke but it's almost as expensive as swapping in a newer rear end.

Actually it is not just an updated yoke it is a complete ring/pinion/yoke for 94 up model of year which is where the change took place from short to long splines.

The 10.25 rear up to late 93 has a short pinion spline/yoke, after that they changed to the longer one...

Just sayin...

Al

 

[Hydro-idi]

When looking for an idi, you need to check out the head gaskets. Back in the day, the gasket material wasn't all that great and the 6.9 head bolts often stretched, causing internal/external leaks. Almost every 6.9 will have an external oil/coolant leak due to these weak links. Check to see if the vehicle has white smoke emitting from the exhaust. If smoke is sweet, that is an internal head gasket failure that needs to be addressed immediately. Victor reinz head gaskets and arp head studs fixes those issues, leaving you with a bullet proof idi engine.
Also check coolant reservoir. If you see any oil in it, oil cooler seals need to be changed out.

 

[icanfixall]

Good point about oil in the coolant being the o-rings failing on the oil coolers. The oem o-rongs harden and start leaking oil past into the cooling system because the oil pressure is higher than the coolant pressure. When mine let go many years ago I had the job done at a shop. They showed me the rings. Hard as rocks and looked like a piece of wood. I could break them in my hands. tpy4 sells the better o-ring set as does agnem. Ask around if you end up needing a set. Its a tuff dirty overhead job and the coolant needs to be drained as does the oil. At least remove the oil filter because it mounts to the rear coler housing end cap. Several ways to remove the cooler too but no need working that up now. Any oil found in the radiater top tank is not a death sentance either. Oil lubes the pump but will eventually get into the oil pan as water or coolent .

 

[Knuckledragger]

Welcome to the forums.

I have only single cabs and have not found them to be lacking in anything but interior room. If you live/work/drive mostly out in the country, a CC or extra cab is fine, but plays hell trying to park in the city.

The 6.9 is a serviceable engine and has plenty of grunt to get things done, even with a 3.55 rear. I think 3.73 was only available as after market, factory offered only 3.55 or 4.10.

The weakness from original head gaskets is documented, most vehicles experienced failure by 80,000 miles. Another possible problem is that the lower line of head bolts is exposed to the atmosphere and any leak or rust causing event will affect them. I rebuilt an engine a few years ago and considered putting a blob of silicone on each exposed stud, but decided against that, fearing the silicone might seal in unwanted stuff and speed up the problem instead of removing it. So I painted the exposed studs real good while spraying the rest of the engine.

 

[Ruger_556]

Actually it is not just an updated yoke it is a complete ring/pinion/yoke for 94 up model of year which is where the change took place from short to long splines.

The 10.25 rear up to late 93 has a short pinion spline/yoke, after that they changed to the longer one...

Just sayin...

Al

You get the idea anyway. I looked into rebuilding mine and every kit out there comes with the new longer splined yoke/pinion but you end up around 4-500 bucks just in parts.