New engine running but knocking

[sasquatch81]

Hello all, so I finally started my new engine today, first time ive ever swapped an engine and I was thrilled to see it start with minimal effort. I have a new long block, new injection pump, new injectors, and oil cooler. I also did the upgrade to the electric fuel pump, added a bypass oil filter and 3" downpipe with 4" straight exhaust.

It fires right up with just a flick of the key oil pressure comes up quick (oh yeah all new gauges also) I know I am a little off on my TPS sensor because its a little slow to shift but the more pressing issue right now is I am getting a pretty decent knock. the knock was not there when I first pulled the truck around the block. I then took it for a spin and got up to a bit higher speed. As soon as i did i heard a knock start and it has not gone away since. It doesnt knock at idle but starts around 1000 rpm and its speed changes with the rpm's.

I am just guessing but could this be timing related? I advanced the pump about one dime worth and it didn't seem to make any difference in the knock. A couple other things are it is smoking whitish grey smoke pretty consistently and it idles a little rough.

Any thoughts on what I should try next would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[OLDBULL8]

I touched the computer screen, didn't feel or hear a knock at all, just a little warmth.

But seriously, how can anyone tell what your knock is without a video, more then just a 30 second one, to listen to it. If you make one, don't flash the camera around like some do.

There is a wide array of things on a diesel that will create a knock.

I could say it's out of time, or an injector just let go, or a lifter failed or a bearing burned up. But without hearing it, it's any ones guess.

I would get it timed, then see if it disappears. White smoke could be way late timing.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Sounds like an injector malfunctioning. Start truck up and get a 5/8 wrench & crack each injector line open, one at a time. If you hear noise go away when doing this, try swapping out that injector & see if that does the trick. The white/gray smoke and rough idling has me pointing to a bad injector.

 

[sasquatch81]

I will try taking a video in the morning and posting it. I know anything is possible but the injectors are stage 1's from R&D IDI who I thought had a pretty good quality product. I tried cracking the lines one at a time and noticed larger difference in rpms on several cylinders and only slight difference on the others. I did not notice a change in the knock but it does not knock at idle. I will try cracking the lines and then bringing the rpms up. in general just looking for as much input as possible so tomorrow i can spend my time testing. I really need this truck up and running reliably the end of this weekend. So just trying to be proactive.

 

[dunk]

What is your timing set at? Should be 9* give or take a degree. Too much timing can cause knocking. An injector popping early or leaking can cause a knock as it's essentially advanced timing on that cylinder.

What is your oil pressure at idle, at higher RPM? Does it sounds like a rod knock or like preignition/detonation type of knock?

Knock is either insufficient oil pressure, worn bearing, or cylinder firing too early.

 

[Waystro]

I will try taking a video in the morning and posting it. I know anything is possible but the injectors are stage 1's from R&D IDI who I thought had a pretty good quality product. I tried cracking the lines one at a time and noticed larger difference in rpms on several cylinders and only slight difference on the others. I did not notice a change in the knock but it does not knock at idle. I will try cracking the lines and then bringing the rpms up. in general just looking for as much input as possible so tomorrow i can spend my time testing. I really need this truck up and running reliably the end of this weekend. So just trying to be proactive.

Could be the injectors just cause they came from R&D doesn't mean you can't get a bad one or 2But right now I'm with Bill and hydro. Hydro had a tick only way he found it was with a helper to listen might be worth a shot.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Could be the injectors just cause they came from R&D doesn't mean you can't get a bad one or 2But right now I'm with Bill and hydro. Hydro had a tick only way he found it was with a helper to listen might be worth a shot.

I thought that was the issue.....

 

[Waystro]

I thought that was the issue.....

Well that's a block of shitcheese.

 

[sasquatch81]

Just for clarfication, when you say 9* is that from the timing marks being lined up? What would that be roughly a quarter inch between the lines?

How do you guys turn the pump? I was having a real hard time getting anymore than maybe a 16th of an inch.

I don't have any way to dynamic time but was going to make some phone calls in the morning to see if any local shops can do it properly.

 

[79jasper]

9 is 9. (Using a timing meter)
Location of the marks is somewhat irrelevant.

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[IDIoit]

no way that the rebuilders of the IP's can get the timing perfect on the initial marks.
they are just a base line mark.
you must time it.
the lines are just there to get you close.

 

[laserjock]

R&D had some quality control issues a while back just FYI.

 

[icanfixall]

My guess is you have a bad injector. Reason I say this is you mentioned ruff idle and white smoke. Ruff idle means an injector that is popping early. An injector that hangs open causes white smoke too. Might feel the injector lines near the injectors. If one seems to be hotter than the others then you found an injector that is leaking compression back into the injector because the tip seat has failed. If left that way it will burn thru the return line caps and more fuel than you realize will cover most every area under the hood.
As for turning the pump OTC made a great tool for that. Check ebay because they are usually listed. You can loosen the easy to reach injector hard lines at the back of the injction pump to make it easier to move the pump too. It was a terrible design to try moving the pump with those hard lines keeping it stiff.
As for timing the engine its best you get that done. Do not allow some fake ass shop tell you they time it by ear and thats close enough. What they do it take your money and tell you its been timed by listening to the engine run. Hell for that much please call me and I will time it over the phone and charge you half what these shops will charge.. Depending on what state you live in you could be close to members with timing meters. We do have a timing registry forum here too.

 

[sasquatch81]

Thanks for the feedback, been working on it all morning. I was able to time it by ear a little better and have gotten rid of 90% of the smoke. The #7 injector line is extremely hot and it does sound like the ticking is coming from that area. It is however the closest line to the downpipe. Could that be the reason it is so hot or is it more likely the injector. Was thinking I will try to swap that injector to #2 and see if the heat and sound moves with it. Haven't found any shops around with a meter to time it right but will keep looking.

Thanks a bunch for the feedback.

 

[79jasper]

Injector is stuck open.

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