need new valves or new engine.. what would you do?

[slim072590]

I hate to say this, but these old trucks take a lot of loving care. Without the proper tools and some know how, your at the mercy of some unscrupulous mechanics. A head rebuild shouldn't cost over $500 and that would be with all new valves and repair any bad guide, but if the mechanic has to pull the head, then the cost goes up considerably. So the first thing you want to do is get a diesel compression tester and check the compression yourself. A diesel head is not much different than a gas head, just that a diesel has injectors and glow plugs rather than spark plugs.
You need a 10mm deep socket or a 3/8" deep socket to remove the glow plugs.
To check compression.
Warm the engine up until the Hi idle shuts down.
Remove all the glow plugs.
Disconnect the FSS wire on the IP so the engine won't start.
Install gauge in the glow plug hole with the 10 x 1.0 mm adapter.
Check each cylinder with the gauge, turn engine over with the starter five revolution.
Write down what pressure you get.
You should get anywhere from 350 PSI to 500 PSI, below 350 PSI is questionable cylinder.

You need this for compression test. It does say it has the 10 X 1.0 mm adapter.
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/93000-93999/93644.pdf

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-diesel-engine-compression-tester-93644.html

And one other question... if I test all 8 cylinders and one or two are low... how do I do a leak down test to see if it's my rings or valves?

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[OLDBULL8]

The only other thing that concerns me is putting 1k (give or take) and fixing/ getting perfect, new heads.. is that on 5k or 10k miles my block dies from bad coolant, or abuse from PO or whatever else it went through before me
No one can tell you what you might run into.

I wouldn't mind rebuilding the whole thing, but if I get it all apart and find cavation on the back side of my cylinders... I gotta put back together a no good engine for the core to get a new one..
Your only solution to that is to get a remaned engine, one that has been completely rebuilt and the cylinders have been sleeved, For $3000 you can get an engine from Promar with a warranty, if you are capable of installing it yourself, check out there web site and decide what you want to do. There are a few members on here that have purchased a Promar including myself and are well pleased with them.


I've read so many story's of bad blocks, it's all in my head now.. lol
Reading all those stories, you should have known what you would run into buying an engine of unknown question, especially if you didn't hear it run. For a few buc's you can do the compression test, then make a decision from that.

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That's about all I can say about your predicament.

 

[slim072590]

I've looked at promar a bunch of times... that's actually one of the ways I'm leaning most.. I'm selling one of my jeeps and getting a good bit of cash, and I'm between rebuilding, dropping in a new engine.. getting my trans looked over, and fixing up my idi a bit

I paid for the axles under it and got a truck for free, so any route I go I win...

But I want/ need a truck, and something to haul ppl as well..

And for a gas 4 door short bed, that's around 10-15k and it's going to be used...

I'm really thinking about sinking 5-10k into the IDI, having a brand new motor and clutch, checking the trans, and fixing some smaller things.. for less, then a used 1500, 150, ext, ext

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[chris142]

if it was mine id do the heads only.then use the proper coolant and run it

 

[chris142]

same as with a gasser.put some oil in there.if the compression goes up its rings

 

[riotwarrior]

same as with a gasser.put some oil in there.if the compression goes up its rings

it may fire and that's NOT a good thing for a compression tester IMHO, do it dry and a leakdown using the compression tester adapter is all I can say.

 

[chris142]

if it fires we can rule out low compression! lol.

 

[typ4]

I would pull the valve covers and see if there is a cooked/broken valve spring . And sooty discoloration means a bad guide, these blocks are damn tough and if it hasnt cavitated already it SHOULD be ok for a while.

Oh and cavitation wont chuff, it will either pour white smoke out the exhaust from the coolant getting in there or blow the radiator cap.

 

[slim072590]

I pour white smoke... but no loss of coolant at all

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[typ4]

Then I would get the injectors checked, one could be hanging open for some reason.

 

[slim072590]

They were all checked from conastoga diesel before they were shipped

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[typ4]

so they are brand new. ok scratch that then.

 

[icanfixall]

These new injectors can still be suspect for hanging open. I know and trust what Mel puts out there. If when you installed the injectors any dirt got into an injector that will hang open an injector. The amount of dirt is very small that ruins an injector. I dought you would have seen it either. The needle to nozzle clearance is much less than 1 thousands fit. I have had several injectors apart. Believe it or don't. Just the thickness of diesel fuel changes the fit of the needle. A dry fit is much different than a wet fit. Its too bad you can't send these injectors back to Mel and have him check them again. Having a pop tester would sure be great right about now too.
As for squirting oil in a cylinder I say your wasting your time. Reasons for this feeling is these engines are not a gas engine where the spark plug comes out and you can use oil to check the ring. We have a precup that the oil or fuel enters before it reaches the cylinder. Now please realize when our idi is cranking or running we have a spray of oil up under the pistons. So thats going to oil up the cylinders and create a better seal than any oil poured down a precup hole. Now if some of the naysayers feel that oil spray will not reach the compression rings then tell me why you think that. Our cylinders have a crosshatch that holds oil. And the oil rings are designed to have areas that the oil flows thru into the underside of the piston. No matter what. The oil is covering the cylinders much better than you can imagine. If you shot some oil into a cylinder it very well could fire on that cylinder. Having all the other injectors or glow plugs pulled might help but I recommend having only 1 cylinder making compression. Remove the other 7 plugs so the engine cranks faster and less strain is placed on the starter and batteries.

 

[slim072590]

Great info and advice.. thanks guys

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[gwh98926]

what did the compression test come out at? And there is nobody that can test the compression if the dealer wont touch it? You are spinning your wheels until you diagnose the problem first then go from there. These motors aren't rocket science and are easy to work on. get the SOB tested then figure what you want to do, or tear it down and inspect it your self, worst case is you are out $150 for a gasket set