Need electrical help in Cincinnati...

[simonapowell]

Hi all,

I do 99% of the work on all of my vehicles - the other 1% is the electrical stuff - I'm no good with it, so I'm begging for help from any Oilburners in my area who would be willing to come help me get my beast running again. I'll buy lunch and supply the cold beer (or pop, iced tea, if you prefer).

I live in West Chester, Ohio - about 20 miles north of Cincinnati. I've got an '88 F250 with the stock 7.3IDI, four wheel drive, and C6 tranny. I put a shift kit in the valve body last fall, got in, fired her up, rolled down the power drivers side window, dropped it in Drive, and it quit. Window would not go back up, but I've got the interior light and headlights working - so I'm thinking "ignition switch".

So far I have done the following; checked all the fusible links behind the battery with a multi-meter, replaced the iginition switch, and stared at it for hours on end (my wife calls this wasting time - I told her I was just planning my next move).

Since I do almost ALL of my other automotive work, I HATE the idea of paying a mechanic to come look at/fix it. Is there anyone in my area who can help me out????? PUH-LEEEEEEEEZE????

I've included a couple of pics of 'er in the hopes that someone will see just how rough and ugly she is, and feel sorry for me and offer to give a hand...

Thanks in advance,
Simon from Cincy

 

[sassyrel]

gonna have to start backtracing your harness--power to ign switch??? power to solenoid on inj pump??? starter or nothing at all??? need more info---

 

[simonapowell]

Forgot to mention... I can cross the the terminals on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver (on the inner fenderwell) and it'll crank, but won't start. So juice to the solenoid, but not the fuel and/or IP pump...?

 

[LUCKY_LARUE60]

Hi all,

I do 99% of the work on all of my vehicles - the other 1% is the electrical stuff - I'm no good with it, so I'm begging for help from any Oilburners in my area who would be willing to come help me get my beast running again. I'll buy lunch and supply the cold beer (or pop, iced tea, if you prefer).

I live in West Chester, Ohio - about 20 miles north of Cincinnati. I've got an '88 F250 with the stock 7.3IDI, four wheel drive, and C6 tranny. I put a shift kit in the valve body last fall, got in, fired her up, rolled down the power drivers side window, dropped it in Drive, and it quit. Window would not go back up, but I've got the interior light and headlights working - so I'm thinking "ignition switch".

So far I have done the following; checked all the fusible links behind the battery with a multi-meter, replaced the iginition switch, and stared at it for hours on end (my wife calls this wasting time - I told her I was just planning my next move).

Since I do almost ALL of my other automotive work, I HATE the idea of paying a mechanic to come look at/fix it. Is there anyone in my area who can help me out????? PUH-LEEEEEEEEZE????

I've included a couple of pics of 'er in the hopes that someone will see just how rough and ugly she is, and feel sorry for me and offer to give a hand...

Thanks in advance,
Simon from Cincy

As I live near Lebanon Ohio, I could try to help you out but I am leaving on vacation Tuesday and will not be back for a week. You say it's a 88 but the front clip looks to be a 92 or newer?

Jim

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Forgot to mention... I can cross the the terminals on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver (on the inner fenderwell) and it'll crank, but won't start. So juice to the solenoid, but not the fuel and/or IP pump...?

tis the I/P, but not in the way you're thinking - the fuel shutoff solenoid (FSS) lives inside it, and unless it gets 12V power it will not allow any fuel through the pump. There are two electrical connections on top of the I/P, the one towards the air cleaner is for the cold advance, and the one towards the housing with the oil fill neck is for the FSS - run a wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the FSS plug, then try to start the truck by jumping the solenoid with the screwdriver. Glow plugs will not engage tho, and engine will be hard to start, so you may need to have the block heater plugged in for a few hours beforehand.

 

[simonapowell]

tis the I/P, but not in the way you're thinking - the fuel shutoff solenoid (FSS) lives inside it, and unless it gets 12V power it will not allow any fuel through the pump. There are two electrical connections on top of the I/P, the one towards the air cleaner is for the cold advance, and the one towards the housing with the oil fill neck is for the FSS - run a wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the FSS plug, then try to start the truck by jumping the solenoid with the screwdriver. Glow plugs will not engage tho, and engine will be hard to start, so you may need to have the block heater plugged in for a few hours beforehand.

But my "accessories" don't work when the key is on - Power Windows, radio, et. al. The power LOCKS work, which makes sense, as the key doesn't have to be "on" to lock or unlock the doors...

????????

 

[simonapowell]

As I live near Lebanon Ohio, I could try to help you out but I am leaving on vacation Tuesday and will not be back for a week. You say it's a 88 but the front clip looks to be a 92 or newer?

Jim

Hi Jim - as it's been sitting in it's current state since last fall, another week isn't going to make any difference. I'd be glad to take you up on your offer for help!

Send me a PM or email me directly at [email protected] when you get back and we'll figure out a day and time.

Thank you so much!
Simon

 

[Agnem]

You picked the wrong year! Should have had this problem last year when the rally was in your back yard.

 

[simonapowell]

Oh, I thought about that - was a little too late when it quit on me... Murphy's Law I guess.

 

[Wanderer-rrorc]

check you fuses under the hood and under the dash (my 92 had some fuses under the dash)...also check yer wires....make sure you dont have a burned wire...

 

[Agnem]

I'll have to see if I can find some schematics to post.

 

[simonapowell]

Oh MAN - that would be GREAT, Mel!

 

[Devilish]

Prior to the truck dying that last time, did the truck act up? Such as cutting out, dying but can start back up power flickers or other similar oddities? If so, then you do most likely have a failed ignition switch. They are notorious for failing because the switch itself is working itself apart.
http://www.partsamerica.com/product...IE&MfrPartNumber=IG10311&PartType=410&PTSet=A
This is the same switch you need which can be picked up at your local Checker, Shucks, Kragen. The switch bolts to the side of the colum tube behind the dash and should only take about a half hour to change. I'd also strongly suggest that you closely inspect the pigtail for burns, etc. A new pigtail should also be in stock at the store.

On my truck this switch was replaced by Ford on a recall because they were causing electrical fires on cars, and trucks, including my sister's ******! Last year my truck was doing the stalling thing from time to time and it got bad enough that just tapping the key switch could cause it to stall. Basically I'm saying you may wanna replace it anyways

 

[Brimmstone]

I'm going out to my beast to check it but I think it is the connector with the four wires in it that are basically power for the key. I can't remember if the later trucks had this or not. I know when the terminals got corrosion in all my 86 and older trucks I had an issue like yours.

 

[simonapowell]

It wasn't acting up at all before it died. It just died.