My Rear Differential Good Luck!

[Grass Hauler]

This all started 4,000 miles ago. I was checking fluid level in the rear diff. Found a fair amount of metal and sludge stuck to the plug. I was hesitant to touch it, not knowing if the sludge was caused by the previous owner trying to cover something up. I decided to drive it and check again. Today with the same results I decided it was time to change the fluid no matter what I was afraid to find inside. Popped the diff cover (heres the LUCKY part) after a visual I found one of the bolts on the ring gear sticking out far enough to almost hit the bearing. Any further and sure failure of all kinds of parts I'm sure. I tried to tell my girlfriend the story and she didn't find it to be what I did. So I decided to post my story here amongst other IDI nuts.

?'s Might as well throw out some concerns I have after the inspection to get your opinions. 140k on truck, Sterling 10.25 4.10 diff
1. Lots of metal caught in the 3 pockets in the bottom of the housing, If it were gold I would have a pan full. Most likely original fluid which was dirty and sludgy at the bottom. I dont think there was any water or other foreign material just lack of maint. Normal or not???

2. One wheel jacked up. Rotating forward to back the spider gears would slide up and down on the pinion shaft??? Quite a bit maybe 1/4 inch. Also might be the noise I hear while shifting sloppy at times you get a clunk. Very similar to the noise I heard today moving the wheel back and fourth. Normal or Not?

note: D-shaft u joints are a little loose also no abnormal noises heard other than stated.

 

[RLDSL]

Is( or was it at one time, but not recognizable as one now) a posi? if so that might explain the excess crud in the oil if it's never been changed. completel ythrashed clutches leave a lot of debris in their wake, and also the excess pinion gear play. On these big beasts, rear end oil is NOT a lifetime fill. Factory says to change the diff oil at 100k or if the axle gets submerged in water. Personally I think this is WAY too long. Even Amsoil only suggests 50k miles in severe service on one of these things for their seriously good stuff.. That should be a clue, and probably a reason that factory posi clutches end up wearing out so badly. I have a bit over 70k miles on a fresh set of clutches in my rear on Amsoil severe gear and changed at 50k and it still tracks like a new posi.

Personally if I were running dino gear oil, I'd be inclined to change it around 35k before it has a chance to break down too badly.

If it was a posi, it sounds like new clutch time anyway so youll have to pull that sucker out Let us know what you find, the axle code is on your door jam.

 

[Grass Hauler]

Thanks for the quick reply. So far as I go through this truck fixing or replacing things I have found everything to be original and mostly untouched. So I believe it is the right and original rear end and parts. When I checked the axle tag # it showed sterling 10.25 4.10p diff. Also Posi 4.10's were not available in a Cab Chassis Dually from what I found, not sure If that is correct. Everything seamed ok to me except for loose spider gears. I am a maintenance freak and would have not let it go to 140k if I owned it all its life. Defiantly will change again much sooner hope it has lots of life left. Cool western hauler bed BTW I have always wanted a ford with that bed on it.

 

[riotwarrior]

Check the door tag for axle code and then report back...IIRC CabChas did have posi....option!

Least seems to indicate so in books I have floating about.

Al

 

[RLDSL]

Also are you positive that you even have a cab and chassis or is it a dually that came from the dealer with a custom bed ? and yes, Anything is available as an option if the customer wants it. If they are selling a custom speced out truck, they sure as heck aren't going to loose the sale to the Dodge dealer down teh street over a posi. They'll order the axle in and swap it out themself at the dealership before they will let that happen

 

[typ4]

I have a mint condition nonposi carrier and gears if you get to where you cant find parts over there, make sure the pinion is tight and also pull the rear hubs to check for signs of previous bearing failures. Hope you dodged a bullet.

 

[Grass Hauler]

Will check for the door code as soon as I get back to the shop. Do cab chassis trucks have an axle that is shorter in width?

 

[RLDSL]

Will check for the door code as soon as I get back to the shop. Do cab chassis trucks have an axle that is shorter in width?

The cab chassis trucks rear axle the rear outer tires will be in the same track as the fronts, dually axles the rear outer tire sticks out further .

 

[Grass Hauler]

The rear section of the frame is straight which has led me to believe its a cab chassis and my insurance company had issues identifying the vin for that reason. Does that sound right RLDSL?

TYP4 parts are defiantly hard to find here. I have been to the largest recycling yard and they have only 2 IDI's and 2 powerstrokes very picked over and both were commercial hard use trucks. I might need that used set up you have in the future. I RTV'd the cover back on before I left the shop so it would set, to put fluid in tomorrow. Not that you have to do it that way but I have the time to be patient. So I cant recheck the pinion for play, but I did wiggle everything when it was apart. Now I wish I would have waited, really hate silicone removal. Also I have basic knowledge of this type of thing and have no field experience with what is a problem and what isnt. As far as rear hubs are you referring to the bearing/hub assy by the wheel. Man that sounds bad lol. I replaced a front wheel bearing not long ago so im sure if this is what you are talking about I can get it apart.

Thanks guys

 

[Grass Hauler]

Fronts and outer rears are almost in the same track like you see in the larger attached photo. Hope its not to large. Also I will measure the frame.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[RLDSL]

Definiteluy sounds like cab /chassis setup.
If you remove the diff carrier to repair it make sure to order a side shim set from Randys or some such place because the 2 solid shims are not going back in, and consider renting a case spreader for getting it back in

 

[typ4]

the pinion can be checked at the yoke so no need to break the seal.

 

[Grass Hauler]

Great info guys, Hope to get the the shop tomorrow at some point to do more inspecting and get more info off of the truck. Will report back soon.

 

[junk]

Grass hauler - Your from Sioux Falls. that's cool I grew up in Mitchell and now in live in northwest Iowa. Your in the right spot for help with a ford IDI diesel.

I don't know anything about the cab and chassis rearends, but there is a guy in Sioux falls that specializes in the Ford pickups. I'm not sure how far he goes back anymore. Last I hear he was focused on the Superduties. I bought some turbo parts from him about 10 years ago for a factory ATS turbo. He had a lot of ford pickup stuff. He might have parts also if you need them.

 

[Grass Hauler]

Junk - nice to know there are some local guys here on the site. If that guy does business with the public PM any contact info you might have. Thanks