maint manual for the DB2...anyone found one?

[DOE-SST]

How to clean your DB2 nose screen...really simple

This thread was originally titled "maint manual for the DB2...anyone found one?", but I think it would help more folks by renaming it "how to clean your DB2 nose screen".


It appears Stanadyne has kept rebuild info on the DB2 restricted to authorized repair centers, and kept them from releasing it to the public.

My DB2 has the nose screen plugged with crud, and I need instructions to remove the screen. Hours of internet searching has not found the specific info I need.

There must be someone in this universe that has a manual, but who?

Also, there is a CD-Rom of the DB2 pump on ebay. Has anyone bought this? Was it much help? I've bought ebay CDs before, and most were horrible scans of photocopied manuals, with barely readable text and pictures missing 75% of their detail.

 

[icanfixall]

Will this help...
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/...e_db2_injection_pump/stanadyne_time_trac.html

 

[icanfixall]

Well... I decided to find out how to get at this internal screen. First off look at the back of the pump. The steel cone that the fuel line fitting screws into has two flats cut on it. Now look up at the top two injector line fittings. See the fastener with the torque screw in it. That needs to be removed along with the small "shoe" that fits into the teeth on the housing. Now hold the pump anyway you can and remove that nose cone rear of the pump. Its right hand threads. Have the pump with that end pointed up so the parts don't fall out of it as you remove the housing. There will be the screen attached to the pump internal pump backing plate. Notice when you pull it off there is a long alignment pin that needs to be lined up with several internal parts when it goes bACK TOGETHER....

 

[DOE-SST]

I've got the dieselpowermag info, and a few other diagrams.

I'll weld up a fixture to hold the pump vertically in a vise tonight, and try unscrewing the nose cone.

I can't believe no one has posted info/pics on screen R&R on the net. I'm taking lots of pictures for my own reference, and anyone who wants to post a "how-to" on the net is welcome to them.

Wish me luck that parts don't go flying. I'm doing this for a friend, no charge, and don't want to buy him a new pump.

 

[Diesel JD]

What's wrong with the pump? You really need to be careful especially if it's someone else's truck. Most would say don't me with a DB2 internally, but lots of guys on the GM and Olds forums have messed with them to the point of changing seals and so forth. A rebuild is probably going to be tough without a calibration test bench, but if you just need to clean it up and change some seals and gaskets and you are really good at putting small delicate stuff back together it would probably be ok especially with a good breakdown of what's what and what goes where. Just make sure that if you have an audible click when voltage is applied and removed (key on) from the fuel shutoff solenoid. This assures that you have control of the pump with the key(shouldn't runaway then) and just in case, have a secondary method to shut the thing down in case things go badly( I like the idea of a clean hardbound book or piece of plywood to clap over the intake) messing with the fuel injection system is a little scary for most and no one has really gone there in the Ford and IH club. See if you can locate Justin(dieseldummy) in the 6.2 forum... he's actually done a lot with his own DB2 pumps, even made a Rube Goldbergian calibration tool that worked for him. If it can be done with a 6.2 DB2 pump or an Olds Roosa Master pump, why not for a 6.9 or 7.3 DB2? Same pump just turns opposite directions.

 

[Diesel JD]

On edit I see you just want to clean it up.... that should help it, if it hasn't already gotten hurt too bad from fuel starvation, probably easily within your capabilities..good luck! Hope your friend doesn't need the rebuilt pump. They ain't cheap, but f he does get it from Mel or Russ if you want to shop online or get a rebuild at a local Stanadyne/ADS certified shop. Economy internet rebuilds nearly broke me when I first got my IDI!

 

[DOE-SST]

Well... I decided to find out how to get at this internal screen. First off look at the back of the pump. The steel cone that the fuel line fitting screws into has two flats cut on it. Now look up at the top two injector line fittings. See the fastener with the torque screw in it. That needs to be removed along with the small "shoe" that fits into the teeth on the housing. Now hold the pump anyway you can and remove that nose cone rear of the pump. Its right hand threads. Have the pump with that end pointed up so the parts don't fall out of it as you remove the housing. There will be the screen attached to the pump internal pump backing plate. Notice when you pull it off there is a long alignment pin that needs to be lined up with several internal parts when it goes bACK TOGETHER....

Man,

You're pretty darn good!

You're info was "on time and on target" as we used to say in the USAF.


I mounted the pump vertically in a vice, made index marks, removed the hold-down tooth, unscrewed the nose cone, and found the filter sitting directly under it. Cleaning the filter and adjacent parts was simple.

YOU DEFINITELY NEED TO HAVE THE PUMP ORIENTED VERTICALLY WHEN DOING THIS, or small parts are going to fall out.

Unfortunately, the screen was NOT plugged with crud, which means I have bigger problems.

Plan "B" is to make a pump-holding fixture and an adapter to turn the pump shaft with a cordless drill. Then add 5psi of fuel, spin the shaft and see what does/doesn't happen.

 

[Diesel JD]

What happens when you turn the shaft by hand? I'm guessing it's either seized or you
re feeling no resistance at all. In either case sheared pump shaft=toss it in the garbage, but I hope I'm wrong. Also remember if you do set up a jig to try to test it, you're going to need 12VDC to the fuel shutoff solenoid or it isn't going to "make fuel" no matter how well you fix whatever else is wrong with it. If you find it's bad and you want to play around some more with trying to build one I have an old pump already disassembled(after my builder rejected the core and didn't have the decency to put it back together) from a pump that worked. It failed at the shaft seals and other problems may have been present, but it was a runner...no problems with the hyrdaulic head swelling or shaft being sheared. I'd contribute it gratis to your project. Pay for the shipping between that and a new Stanadyne kit if you're feeling really adventurous you might get lucky and have a working homemade rebuilt DB2. I so want someone to succeed at this! However this could be a waste of your time. I don't know how fast your friend needs the truck back on the road or how much scratch you guys want to throw into the project.

 

[DOE-SST]

The original problem was no fuel to the injectors. This vehicle sat for a while before I bought it. I ran it for a few weeks, then sold a friend and it quit a week later. The 5psi lift pump tested good, but it took 10psi to get fuel to slowly enter the IP. There was algae in the fuel filter, so we guessed the IP nose screen was plugged with crud, which, unfortunately, wasn’t the problem. I was thinking the time driving, was enough to move the algae existing beyond the filter, into the IP and block the screen.

The shaft turns smoothly, with slight resistance, and I can hear the rollers slapping against the case wall when I give the shaft a hard spin. When I had the nose screen off, the rotor/vanes moved in sync with the front shaft.

This pump is new to me, and without a detailed factory rebuild manual and test equipment, I wouldn’t attempt a rebuild. But thanks for that generous offer.

I have soaked the pump in fresh diesel/sludge dissolver numerous times, and put it in an ultrasonic bath as well. That may have cleared up a sludge problem. If the operational test doesn’t show positive results, then I guess it is time for a new pump.

Thanks for the tip on the FSS

 

[motrack]

The pump plungers can stick in their bores if these pumps set for a long time.

I have seen this with several pumps over the yrs.

FYI.... A DB pump service is available from Stanadyne. You just need talk to your local pump shop into ordering you one.

A DB pump service manual is also available from John Deere.

 

[DOE-SST]

Hmmmm,

Went to the John Deere dealer for parts/manual for the DB2.

Talked with two employees, neither had any clue what a stanadyne DB2 was.

Went to the Ford dealer, no manuals and no front o-ring. Don't stock it, cannot get it.

I'll try NAPA next.

 

[motrack]

Deere no longer supplies parts for DB pumps but the pumps are still shown in parts.

The pump service info you seek is shown in Deere tech manual " Diesel fuel systems repair"

My copy is 33 yrs old but as of last yr it was still available.You need to find a better Deere dealer.

 

[Diesel JD]

Hey Motrack...glad to see you posting a little again. Can you get us a stanadyne or Deere title or part number for the manual? Please and thanks!

 

[DOE-SST]

What happens when you turn the shaft by hand? I'm guessing it's either seized or you
re feeling no resistance at all. In either case sheared pump shaft=toss it in the garbage, but I hope I'm wrong. Also remember if you do set up a jig to try to test it, you're going to need 12VDC to the fuel shutoff solenoid or it isn't going to "make fuel" no matter how well you fix whatever else is wrong with it. If you find it's bad and you want to play around some more with trying to build one I have an old pump already disassembled(after my builder rejected the core and didn't have the decency to put it back together) from a pump that worked. It failed at the shaft seals and other problems may have been present, but it was a runner...no problems with the hyrdaulic head swelling or shaft being sheared. I'd contribute it gratis to your project. Pay for the shipping between that and a new Stanadyne kit if you're feeling really adventurous you might get lucky and have a working homemade rebuilt DB2. I so want someone to succeed at this! However this could be a waste of your time. I don't know how fast your friend needs the truck back on the road or how much scratch you guys want to throw into the project.

I finally got it to pump fuel, after long soaking in an ultrasonic bath.

I'll hang it on the van and see if it works. If not, I'll put on a rebuilt pump, and tear down this one just to see if I can fix it myself. I have found a smattering of rebuild info on the net. So don't toss those parts yet, I might try to build a Frankenpump. I'll post pics during the surgery.

 

[Agnem]

Sorry I didn't see this thread earlier. I could have saved you guys some effort. I learned how to do this 3 years ago, during the 2007 IDI Weekend, when I got the briliant idea to demo the worlds first Moose Pump. It worked great for a few hours. Then the rubber O-ring that seals the nose cone failed. And yes, it can be done IN the truck. IN the horizontal postion. IN a Walmart parking lot (to date, I think the only time the Moose Truck or Agne's for that matter have been in a Walmart parking lot) And yes, I flog myself at nights and cut myself when I'm bored. I spent the rest of that weekend in hell. I don't even want to talk about it anymore.

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